Freds Dadoing Baseplate

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The T-square is great for a dado that's perpendicular to an edge, and the edge guide is great where a groove runs parallel to an edge. But neither will help you cut a dado or groove that skews across the work.

With this jig that Fred cooked up, you line up a strip ofhardboard or A-inch plywood right on the edge of the cut. This is the fence.

Attach the auxiliary baseplates the router's baseplate next. Use double-sided carpet tape. As you position the auxiliary baseplate, make sure its straight edge is tangent to

[BIT DRAWER

A truism of woodworking is that the material seldom is the advertised dimension. Onc-by isn't. It's Y*. Two-by isn't either; it's Wi. Depending on the weather.

Even sheet goods often deviate. Hardwood plywood, for example, is manufactured to a given thickness. but then finish sanded. It ends up being a 64th or a 32nd undersized. Similarly, sheet goods with a melamine or laminate face are often "fat" by the same fractions.

The upshot for the router woodworker is that dadoes cut for these materials using "full-dimension" bits aren't right. The dado's exactly Y* inch wide, but the material either rattles or won't Pit. A solution is available—"V*-inch" straight and dado bits that are lA¡ inch either over- or undersized.

• Woodhaven stocks a %-inch dosvnshear dado bit.

• Eagle America has a %-inch straight bit (as well as a tyk-inch straight hit for that not-quite-half-inch plywood).

A dado cut with a ¥4-inch hit (right) is loo wide for the typical hardwood plywood. But the plywood fits a z,Af-inch-wide dado perfectly (left).

• Paso Robles Carbide makes downshcar daclo bits in %-ineh and %-inch diameters O/2 plus a 64th and Yx plus a 32nd), in 4|/k-inch and 2!^:-inch diameters (Y* plus), and in *%*-inch and %-irich diameters 04 plus).

By the time you read this, other manufacturers may have jumped on the bandwagon, making these sizes even more available. Wood-haven. Paso Robles, and Eagle America arc listed in "Sources" on page 337.

PASO ROBLES' yU" DADO BIT

PASO ROBLES' */um DADO BIT

EAGLE AMERICA'S

STRAIGHT BIT

WOODHAVEN'S STRAIGHT BIT

the bit's cutting edge. Then burnish it down.

To make the cut. slide the auxiliary-baseplate's straight edge against thehardboard fence's edge, and the cut will be just where you want it. You don't have to fret about the router lipping, because the base is fully supported—partly by the auxiliary baseplate and partly by the pee.

The baseplate is made in a jiffy. Bore a hole through a scrap of Mason-ite with a 1-inch Forstner bit. The hole should be partially off the edge, as shewn in Fred 's Dadoing Baseplate.

doutu-ífco CAWtT WC BOSC'5 AUIILUUtt RASE PUT E 10 FACTORY MSLPl.CC .■■

doutu-ífco CAWtT WC BOSC'5 AUIILUUtt RASE PUT E 10 FACTORY MSLPl.CC .■■

OH PLYWJ0O

m.itidh FLAt tsgx TAXGfNT TO »1» » CUTTIK6 IPGt.

FRED'S DADOINC BASEPLATE RjD£S A FENCE SET AT TUE DADOS ED6L

OH PLYWJ0O

m.itidh FLAt tsgx TAXGfNT TO »1» » CUTTIK6 IPGt.

FRED'S DADOINC BASEPLATE RjD£S A FENCE SET AT TUE DADOS ED6L

On the band saw, trim the scrap to roughly the shape of the router baseplate. It's done! Rip that fence, get out the carpet tape, and you're ready to rout.

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