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Feel you just have to have a miter gauge slot in your router table? You can have the slot and maintain the integrity of your laminated tabletop by screwing a rabbeted hardwood strip to the front edge of your tabletop.

Joint, plane, and rip a strip of oak. maple, ash, or similar hard wood to a 1 '/¿-inch-square girth. Crosscut a piece as long as your router tabletop. Cut a Va-inch-wide by Winch-deep rabbet along its full length; make three or four passes to achieve the full depth.

You want to attach the strip to the front edge of the tabletop so that it forms a Winch-wide groove. The top of the strip must be flush with the tabletop. Clamp the strip in place and drill holes for an appropriate number of mounting screws.

• If the installation is to be permanent, countersink and coun-terbore the holes. Glue and screw the strip in place, then conceal the screwheads with wood plugs. Trim the plugs flush, sand, and apply a finish.

• If the strip is to be removable, drill and countersink pilot holes for flathcad machine screws. Drill holes of the appropriate size in the tabletop edge, then install threaded inserts. Sand and finish the strip, then screw it in place.

Though the slot Is at the very edge of the table, it is within 6 inches of the bit if you've offset your router in the tabletop. Adapt the sled with a guide strip sized to fit the slot. Make other router table accessories that use the slot as a guide.

above the bit of the cabinet router table. The crossbar rests on the table-top with the flange against the back edge. When aligned between marks made on the tabletop during the arm's construction, the pin is concentric with the bit. You use clamps to secure the arm.

If the workpiecc is thick and you need to raise the pin, unclamp the arm and slip a spacer or two under the crossbar. Then reclamp the arm.

1. Sclcct straight-grained, defect-free stock. Plane, rip, joint, and crosscut the parts to the sizes specified by the Cutting List.

2. On the band saw, round off one end of the arm. as shown in Pin Router Ann. Clamp the arm to the elevator block, and lay out the bevel that bler.ds the two parts, as shown. Also, mark the block's position on the arm. Unclamp the pans, and cut the bevels.

3. Glue the flange to the back edge of the crossbar. When the glue is dry. set the block in position and mark that position on the crossbar. With a router and a Winch round-over bit, radius all the edges that will be exposed on the assembled unit. Then glue the elevator block and the arm to the crossbar.

4. Set the arm on the router table with the arm centered—as closely as possible—above the router collet. Clamp it. Mark the router table's edge banding on each end of the crossbar, so you can quickly and reliably align the arm unit on the router table whenever you need to use it. For the sake of pcrmancnce, you may want to chisel marks into wooden banding, if your tabic has it.

5. To mark the nolc for the pin, you need to chuck the longest Winch straight bit you have in the router, backing it as far out of the collet as possible. No. you aren't acnially going to run the router. Elevate the router until the bit contacts the arm. If you spin the collet b> hand, the bit should mark the arm. When the arm is well marked, remove it from the router table and bore a Winch-diameter hole through it on the drill press.

6. Several pins were made for the pin router arm. All use Winch bolts. The "standard" pin is a Winch bolt with the head sawed off. A wing nut holds it in place. The smooth shank between the head (now missing) and the threads is the rub surface. Larger-diameter pins can be made by cen-terboring 1 Winch pieces of oak dowel of the desired diameter. The most accurate way to centerbore the dowel is on a lathe. Bore a Winch-diameter hole clean through the dowel, then make a Winch-diameter counterbore about Vi inch deep. Use a cap bolt, which has a round head with a socket it in for an alien wrench. Pull the bolt into the dowel and sink the head in the counterbore.

CUTTING LIST

Piece

Number

Thickness

Width

1 .engt h

Material

Arm

1

1W

2A"

20 Vk"

6/4 oak

Elevator block

I

Yi"

r

3W

4/4 oak

Crossbar

1

VA"

1A"

18"

6/4 oak

Flange

1

yv

4"

18"

4/4 oak

Hardware

1 pc. W X 2Yi" cap bolt

1 pc. V" wing nut

The router table provides a perfect place to mount a couple of other portable power tools. The impact for them is the same as it is for the router. You manipulate the work rather than the tool, and you see what's going on.

All you need is a couple of extra mounting plates.

One tool that comes to mind for this treatment is the saber saw. Screw a mounting plate to a saber saw's shoe. The blade juts through a hole in the plate. Drop the plate into the opening in the router tablctop. and you've got a kind of scroll saw.

You can turn a portable power drill into a stationary drum sander —a small one to be sure—with a mounting plate, a Port-A-Lign drill guide, and a sanding drum scaled to the drill. Attach the guide to the mounting plate, positioning it so the chuck will be just below the bit throat in the plate. Install the drill on the guide, fit the drum in the chuck, and go to work.

Acrylic is sufficiently cheap that you can make the extra mounting plates and keep them handy for those jobs when you want to table-mount these other tools.

PIN ROUTER ARM FOR TEMPLATE WORK ON THE ROUTER TABLE

ELEVATOR

BLOCK

FLANGE

PIN ROUTER ARM FOR TEMPLATE WORK ON THE ROUTER TABLE

ELEVATOR

BLOCK

FLANGE

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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