Making The

Tedswoodworking Plans

Ted's Woodworking Plans

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The jig is in effect a V-block that helps you to cut easily and consis-tendy through a comer of a box. The jigs supports embrace the box's sides, and the base provides a firm work surface that perfectly bisects the planes of the comer.

For smallish work, you use the jig on a router table. The box to be worked rests in the jig. For casework or any other box that's too big to maneuver back and forth on the router table, you clamp the jig to the comer of the work. In cither situation, the bit projects through a slot in the jig's base, and when you move the jig or the router, the appropriate cut is made.

A key in the jig helps you position the slots consistently. For the first cut, the work is butted against the key. But for the second and subsequent cuts, the previous cut is indexed over the key.

1. Cut the plywood parts, which means everything but the key. The base is simply a rectangle. The supports arc beve.cd at 45 degrees along one edge, as are the braces.

2. Glue and screw the supports to the base, as shown in the drawing.

This can be a vexing task. 1 had a lot of trouble making the first jig. but the second one took maybe 20 minutes. Try this: Use die two braces to trap die supports, so they don't slide out of alignment as you try to drill pilots and drive the screws.

Scribe a line across the middle of the base with a try square. Clamp a brace flat against the base along the line. The brace's miter should form an acute angle with die base.

A small box can be set in the key jig and worked on the router table. Using thin trap fences to position the jig allows the assembly being slotted to protrude from the jig without interference.

A small box can be set in the key jig and worked on the router table. Using thin trap fences to position the jig allows the assembly being slotted to protrude from the jig without interference.

The secret behind the uniformly spaced slots is the strip of wood visible beside the bit. A slot fits over that bey, positioning the work for the next slot to be cut by the bit. The key can be switched to the unoccupied slot beyond the bit to produce a different spacing.

pove.tail/splime key jig for hand-held amd router-table work

CU1 UNO USX

Piece

Number

Thickness

Width

Length

Material

Base

1

WM

8"

15"

P.ywood

Supports

2

y<"

8"

8"

P.ywood

Braces

2

w

8"

4 W

P-ywood

Key

i

Ys"

Ys"

4"

8 pes. #6 X 1" drywall screws 4 pes. #6 X IYs" drywall screws

Stand one of the supports on its mitered edge and push it under the brace's miter. Lay the second brace on the base and slide it in behind the support, trapping it. Clamp the second brace. Yon should now he able to extract the suppon. apply glue to it, and return it to its position. Drill pilot holes, and drive two 1-inch screws through the base and into the suppon. Unclamp the braces.

Now clamp a brace to the face of the suppon you just installed. With one of its square edges down, this brace forms an acute angle with the base, allowing you to trap the second support in place. Complete the trap with the second brace, and glue and screw the second suppon to the base. Unclamp the braces.

(It is entirely likely that the points of the screws will now be jutting through the faccs of the supports. File these points off after the braces are installed.)

3. Install the braces next. To ensure tha: the two supports form a right angle, rest a square (or a square scrap of wood) in the V. Apply glue to the brace edges and slip one into position. Push it farther under the support until you see that the V forms a right angle. Hold the brace in place while you drill pilot holes and drive two lVs inch screws through the suppon into the brace.

Repeat the process to position the second brace.

When both braces are glued and screwed to their supports, turn the jig over, drill pilots, and drive the remaining screws through the base into the braces.

4. What remains is to cut the slots in the jig and to fit the key to one of them. The first slot is what 1 would call the cutting slot, since it's the one the cutter is in when the jig is being used. It should be equidistant from both sides.

Set the fence on the router table 4 inches from the center of the bit (whatever bit you're using). With the jig tight against the fence, rear it back and plunge it over the spinning bit so that it punches a hole in the base between the forward brace and support. Slide the jig forward, cutting a slot clear through both supports. Lift the back end of the jig up ofT the bit and switch off the router.

5. Determine next what spacing you want between the slots. Following the same procedure as in the previous step, set the fence and cut a slot to one side (or the other) of the cutting slot. Then make a key from a hardwood—maple, cherry, or what have you—and plane it to a tight press-fit in the key slot.

Now you are ready to put the jig to work.

It's worth noting that you can add a second (and possibly a third and a fourth) key slot to your jig. If

skcond key position:

SUPPORT

6ASE

CUTTW* SCOT 'A* WIDE

hast key position;

slots NVac tuirp key position', slots t'/t'ac.

pove.tail/splime key jig for hand-held amd router-table work

To rout key slots in ease-work,you must clamp the jig to the case /irmly- enough that the cutting action doesn't force it out of position. A scrap stuck through the jig and clamped as shown works well. Note that the router is fitted with a guide bushing. This fits into the jig's cutting slot to control the cut. Thealtemative is to attach fences to the jig's base.

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