You have to select the mounting based on the panel. A wooden panel, of course, is installed permanently in u groove cut in the edges of the rails and stiles.
But glass is another story. Since it is breakable, the frame is usually rabbeted for glass so it can be replaced without damaging the frame. Know ing that you just might like to put glass in a cope-and-Stick-jointed frame, bit manufacturers offer window-sash cutters. Like copc-and-stick bits, these bits fonn a decorative profile at the same time they form a recess to receive the glass. But instead of a groove, the recess is a rabbet.
The panel doesn't have to be wood or plain glass, though. Leaded glass could be used. Or expanded metal sheets or punched tin sheets. Or caning. Use your imagination.
In most of these situations, the "panel" should be mounted in a rabbeted recess. All of these materials are too thin to fit the sticked groove. For a finished appearance, cut retainer strips with the same profile as the sticking. Miter the ends of rhe strips and install them with brads.
length, you need only allow that Me inch assembly clearance, since wood doesn't get longer when it expands. Ripping the panel to width is a little trickier.
In the dead of a cold winter, when the relative humidity is generally low and the furnace's heat is drying the shop air even more, the panel stock is as shnmkcn as it will ever be. The cabinetmaker's rule of thumb is to allow about Yn inch per foot of width for expansion. And don't forget the assembly clearance.
In the slough of a sultry summer, on the other hand, the stock is as swollen with moisture as it will get. Cut it to fit pretty tightly in the frame; make it about lAt inch less than the groovc-to-groove dimension.
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