Once you've routed the mortises, doing the tenons is relatively easy. The operation has a great deal in common with routing end-lap joints.
The difference between cutting laps and cutting tenons—and it is an important difference—is that with a tenon, you cut into both faces (and sometimes the edges). The challenge is to get the shoulders lined up all around the piece.
Because the tenons arc usually-cut after the mortises, you need to adjust the thickness of the tenons to fit the moniscs. Cut a test tenon, see how it fits the mortise. Ideally, you'll make the tenon a bit too thick on the first pass, and subsequent bit-height adjustments will thin it to the perfect fit. Remember to trim both cheeks each time you adjust the bit, so the tenon remains centered on the work (unless your project design requires it to be off-center, of course).
Loose tenons are the most easily made of all. Rip lengths of straight, defect-free stock to the width and thickness required. Round-over the edges with a bull-nose bit or a round-over bit. Then crosscut the tenon stock to the lengths required.
Use natural wood for these tenons. Some woodworkers advocate using hardboard, but it's got no strength. You can snap a strip of i: in half with your hands. It will line up the joint for you, but you'll have little more than an end-grain-to-long-grain glue joint. The natural wcod will provide the same long-grain reinforcement across the joint that an integral tenon does, and it gives the joint a lot of long-grain-to-long-grain glue surface, to boot.
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.