Sled

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The sled combmcs the roles of miter gauge, push block, and chip breaker. We use it when doing end-grain cuts. Because it hooks over the table edge, it doesn't need to be used with the fence, nor does it require a slot.

When the sled is serving as a chip breaker, the bit cuts through the work and into the sled itself. It gets chewed up in this kind of use, so the sled is. in a strong sense, a consumable It's easy to make another, go you can make special sleds for different cuts. The sled shown has been used exclusively for cope-and-stick

You shouldn't have to forgo the iH'nefits of a surface-mounted dust pickup just because y ou are using a fence. This dust pickup is attached to the fence.

CUTTING LIST

Piece

Number

Thickness

Width

Length

Material

Sides

2

•/Í"

2Y*"

3"

4/4 oak

Back

1

2Y*%

4"

4/4 oak

Mounting block

1

1"

1 '/V

2 K"

5/4 oak

Top

1

3/J"

4"

6 pes. X V«" flat head wood screws I pc. '/■»" X 2" roundhead machine screw I pc. '/<" I.D. flat washer I pc. '/■•" T-nut

CLEAR ACRYLIC PLASTIC TOP

BACK

MAKE MOLE SAME SIZE AS SHOP-VAC HOSE.

MOUNTING BLOCK

tfe'x 2* ROUNDHEAD MACHINE SCREW FtTS THROUGH SLOT IN AUXILIARY FENCE.

CLEAR ACRYLIC PLASTIC TOP

BACK

MAKE MOLE SAME SIZE AS SHOP-VAC HOSE.

MOUNTING BLOCK

FEMCE-MOUNTED DUST PICKUP

tfe'x 2* ROUNDHEAD MACHINE SCREW FtTS THROUGH SLOT IN AUXILIARY FENCE.

You can have a miter gauge for your router table without having a tabletop slot to guide it. .4 fence attached to a bottom of the sled slides along the tabletop edge and maintains the sled's position vis-à-vis the bit. It's just what you need for the cope-and-stich work being done here, as well as for many other router table operations.

U ANOLt

U ANOLt

SLED-A MITER GAUGE DOESN'T NEED A SLOT!

CUTTING LIST

Picce Number

Thickness

Width

Length

Material

Base 1

w

8"

XtVi"

Fir plywood

Flange I

m"

IV«"

16//

a/4 oak

Brace I

\Y"

3"

11"

6/4 oak

Handle 1

1"

4VV'

4 Vi"

5/4 oak

Hardware

6pes. #6 x 1" drywall screws

1 quick-release toggle clamp

work, and it was made of scrap-bin materials.

The toggle clamp is a practical feature. It keeps your work firmly in place, freeing both hands to guide the sled. Its position is designed to keep the end of the work from bowing up away from the bit, which could give you an irregular cut.

For cope-and-stick work, the clamp is almost essential. The reason? In action, the bit is self-feeding, and though you are moving the work counter to the bit's rotation, it will pull the work into itself. The cut that stans square may end up slightly angled, and the matched joints you cut may not fit tightly. Although you may not believe this, that toggle clamp can pinch the work a lot tighter than you can with your hand.

1. Cut the parts to the sizes specified by the Cutting List. The parts need to be flat and square. Cut the handle to shape on the band saw or with a saber saw. The exact shape is less important than its fit in your hand; achieve the latter.

2. Cut a rabbet for the base in the flange, then glue and screw the two parts together.

3. Glue and screw the brace in place. Be sure it is at nght angles to the edge of the (lange. Keep the screws back from the edge where the bit might hit them.

4. Screw the toggle clamp to the brace.

5. Glue and screw the handle to the sled.

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