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If you have a small router, you might ay grooving casework mitets for splines with a modified slotting cutter. There are two tricks involved in this approach, and the cutter modification is one of them. The other is how you clamp the work.

To prepare the cutter, switch the positions of the cutter and the pilot bearing. (And while you are at it, change to a slightly laiger bearing so the cut depth is reduced from the standard Vi inch.) You simply have to remove the locking screw or nut, switch the cutter and bearing, then reinstall the fastener. (You can't do this on all slot cutters.)

To prepare the stock, you lay two pieces together, face to face, and line up the miters, as shown in the photo. Clamp them securely. The router rides on one mitered suface while the cutter grooves the other. Your bearing surface will be a tad wider than Yi inch, and the piloted bit will give the tool bearing on a second edge. A lightweight router enhances your control.

As you can see, by switching the bearing and cutter, the pilot has sure contact with the miter edge, while the cutting edge is in the meaty pan of the miter.

the fence and let it drop. The catch fence will keep it from skidding across the tablctop and onto the floor. Slide the piece across the fence. A stopped slot is created through the typical tip-rout-and-tip sequence.

Edge-Miter Slotting Fixture

Though simple, this fixture for slotting an edge miter is quite versatile. To work large pieces like the side of a cabinet, attach it to the router as an auxiliary base, and run the unit over the clampcd-down work. With smaller work, you can clamp the router and fixture to a bench to make it convenient to pass the stock through it. You can even make a custom version to clamp to a router table.

The fixture consists of a plywood base and two fences, canted to 45 degrees. The model shown was made from scraps of Winch plywood. (The thickness of the base does limit the depth of cut somewhat, but you're not going much deeper than Ys inch in edge-mitered Winch stock.) If you foresee a need to clamp down die fixture to feed work through it, or if you want a router-table version, adjust the dimensions of the base accordingly.

Construction is simple.

1. Glue and screw the main fence and its braces to the base.

2. Position the catch fence to fit the thickness of the mitered stock you want to spline. Attach this fence to the base with screws only, so you can reposition it to accommodate stock of a different thickness.

3. Bore a 1-inch hole where the cutter will pass through the base. You'll be cutting a groove in a captured piece of stock, and you need lots of space for the chips to escape if you don't want them to jam up in the cut.

4. Mount the router to the base. With the bit you'll be using to cut the spline slots in the collet, set the

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The edge-miter slotting jig allows you to use a standard straight bit in a hand-held router to slot mitered edges. The jig traps the work between two fences. You just slip the router and jig onto the workpiece as shown and rout. The router can't slip off the edge, and the slot will be perfectly positioned.

router on the fixture. Adjust its position, setting the bit well into the stock area. Be sure the cutter doesn't come too close to the catch fence; you don't want to weaken the stock you arc splining. With the position set, scribe around the router base and, if possible, tick-mark both the baseplate and rhe fixture.

Remove the router from the fixture, and unfasten its baseplate. Return the baseplate to the fixture, aligning the tick-marks. Now mark the locations of the mounting-screw holes. With a long bit, drill the holes, penetrating the fences as well as the base. Turn the fixture over and drill countcrbores so you can get the mounting screws into the holes to mount the fixture on the router.

5. Screw the fixture to the router.

Catch the edge of the clamped-down stock in the chute formed by the two fences. The main fence should be beneath the work. Switch on the router and feed it over the stock from left to right. The rotation of the cutter will tend to push the stock against the catch fence and keep it accurately placed. If you must feed the opposite way, you'll need to exert plenty of pressure to be sure that the cutter doesn't push away from the stock. If that happens, the groove will be shalbw and in the wrong place.

For this operation, you may want to use an upshear or spiral bit, which will tend to eject the chips. Depending on the job, you'll want a Ye- to Winch cutter.

It is possible to plunge, stop, and exit with this jig by simply attaching it to a plunge router. But if you want to do stopped splines, you may be ahead of the game by making the next jig, one that clamps to the work-piece.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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