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A coupic of tricks can make platform fence adjustments just a little easier to make.

To square the fence, cinch down one screw. Set a try square against the end of the platform top. its blade at the fence. Pivot the fence against the blade and tighten the second screw.

To alter the fence position, position the square at the fence, but insert a spacer of some son between the blade and the fence. The spacer will establish how much the fence will move. Clamp the square to the platform. Remove the spacer, loosen the setscrews. and move the fence tight to the square. Tighten it.

Putting the square on the inner side deepens the cut (narrowing the tail). Putting it on the outer side reduces the cut (widening the tail).

Shift the platform to the other side of the board to rout the other side of the tail.

Test fit the resulting dovetail in one of the dovetail grooves. If you need to adjust the size of the tail, loosen the fence screws and move the fence. Move the fence toward to the board if the tail is too wide, away from the board if the tail is too narrow. Always keep the fence parallel to the shelf. When the fit is right, rout the tails on the workpicces.

Modified double edge guide. This approach eliminates a lot of the clamping and unclamping. With two edge guides fitted to the router, you can run it across the end of a board. The two guides trap the board, keeping the bit in the same relative position on each pass. If you attach a deep facing to one of the guides, it will keep the router perfectly upright on its perch.

If your router has an edge guide that mounts on win rods, and the rods can be adjusted to project from the base on both sides, you can make this work simply by purchasing a second edge guide. Cut a 4-inch-wide strip of hardwood stock and screw it to one of the edge guides.

You can make your own double edge jig. of course. It's akin to the homemade edge guide, described in the chapter "Dadoing and Grooving." using the same hardwood guides. But with this fixture, you use two guides bolted to a baseplate that extends equally on two sides of the router. With the fixture screwed to the router, set the router on the workpiece and establish the bit's proper position. Slide the guides against the workpiece's sides and cinch them tight. The fixture can be used for edge-grooving, mortising, and other operations, as well as cutting sliding dovetails.

The facing screwed to the guide, as shown in Double Edge-Guide Baseplate, is an add-on. of course.

Cut the parts and fasten them together with 1 Winch-long drywall screws, as shown in the drawing. The fencc has '/ยป-inch-diameter mounting holes, which provide a little play for adjustment purposes. To adjust the fence, loosen the screws, shift the fence, then rctighten the screws.

Set up the cut on a scrap of the working stock. Clamp the platform to the scrap, then clamp it in a bench vise. Guide the router against the fence to rout one side of the tail.

plastic knob with through mole router screw

Router Dual Edge Guide

double edge-guide baseplate controls dovetail slotting and lots more


plastic knob with through mole double edge-guide baseplate controls dovetail slotting and lots more


router screw

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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