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Tedswoodworking Plans

16.000 Woodworking Plans by Ted McGrath

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If you want to raise a panel with a vertical bit on a regular router table, try using a trap fence in conjunction with the standard fence.

Set the regular fence for the cut, and adjust the bit setting. Set a sample of the working stock against the fence, and set a board ¥4 inch thick or more against it. The board should be as long as the fence. Clamp it to the tabletop. Now you have a chute just wide enough for the panel.

As you scan the cut, pur a little pressure on the stock, pressing it to the regular fence. The trap fence will keep the bottom of the panel from skidding away from the regular fence. (See page 104 for a photo of a trap fence in use.)

Raising Panels with a Straight Bit

You don't have to spend 50 to 100 bucks for a panel-raising bit. You can cut a straight bevel on a panel with a VWnch straight bit. And you don't need a router table to do it. either.

All it takes is this nitty jig that Fred designed and built, along with a router, a /¡-straight bit with a 1-inch cutting length on a /*-inch shank, and a %-inch rabbeting bit.

Here's how the operation works.

To form the tongue around the panel, you cut a rabbet along each edge. To form a crisp edge around the field, cither kerf the panel on the table saw or—better for a routerhead—groove the panel with a roundnosc nit.

Set up the router and jig next Chuck the straight bit in the router. Remove the router's baseplate, and attach the jig in its place. Set the bit height so the cutting (lutes will be above the tongue as the board is fed through the jig. You don't want to bevel that. Clamp the jig across a couple of sawhorses.

Switch on the router, and feed the panel through the jig. passing it against the cutter rotation. When the panel is between you and the cutter, the feed direction would be left to right. Do the two end-grain cuts and then the two long-grain cuts.

That's all it takes!

The tricks in building the jig are to cant the trap fences to match the angle of bevel you want, and to position the router laterally so the bit makes just the right cut. The design technique Fred used to establish this is one that's

Jig And Fixture Design For Routers

This is a poor man's panel-raising setup, and it gives much better results than the well-known table-saw/radial-arm-saw approach. A relatively low-horsepower router, a commonplace (and versatile)straight hit, and this homemade jig are all that's needed. After rabbeting and scoring the panel,you slip it between the jig's fences and feed it past the bit.

useful for designing and dimensioning all sorts of jigs and fixtures.

First, draw the cut you are trying to achieve in actual size. Then stretch in the bit at the cut. Then add the fences that will guide the cut. When you are done, you have a cross section of the jig-

To make the jig:

1. Cut the pans to the sizes specified by the Cutting list. Bevel the edges of the trap fences, as indicated in Fred's Panel-Raisingjig, and cut the contour of the braces.

2. Lay out the position of the panel channel on the hardboard, as well as the hole for the bit. Use the router's factory baseplate to position the holes for the router-mounring screws Drill

This is a poor man's panel-raising setup, and it gives much better results than the well-known table-saw/radial-arm-saw approach. A relatively low-horsepower router, a commonplace (and versatile)straight hit, and this homemade jig are all that's needed. After rabbeting and scoring the panel,you slip it between the jig's fences and feed it past the bit.

the mounting-screw holes and the 1-inch-diameter bit hole. Clue the base I blocks in place.

3. Glue and screw the plywood bases to the trap fences. Glue the braces in place, and drive a screw through the plywood base into each brace. With a IVj-inch-diameter Forstner bit, drill through the plywood ar.d into the bottom of the trap fence that will par as you can. or low enough for the first pass. One-eighth inch is probably enough for a first bite. It's better to be conservative on the first pass. If you are confident that you can increase the bite significantly after a first full cut, then go ahead. On the horizontal router table, you can set the bit height on the router for the final setting and adjust the depth of cut between passes by raising the router mounting board.

With a big horizontal bit. don't forget to dial back the router speed. Set the router to run as slowly as possible.

Setting the fence and hold-downs. Even if the bit has a pilot, use a fence to guide straight cuts. (Obviously, you can't use the fence for making curved cuts, though you can use two starting pins.) A fence gives you much better control of the work than does the bit's pilot.

Router Techniques Woodworking

CUTTING LIST

Piece

Number

Thickness

Width

Length

Material

Base, top layers

2

3"

15'/2"

Plywood

Base, bottom layer

1

V*"

7"

15 W*

Hard board

Base blocks

2

4"

7"

Hardwood

Trap fences

2

y*"

5"

15/J"

Hardwood

Fence braces

4

K'

2"

4"

Plywood

Hardware

12 pes. #6 x 1" drywall screws

tially house the bit. This will create the opening in the fence for the bit, as well as an exit point for chips. 4. Glue the fence assemblies to the hardboard base. Drive screw's through the bases into the base blocks, and extend the mounting-screw holes through the plywood layer.

After mounting the router and making a test cut or two. you may need to shift the router position slightly to get the correct cut. This is easiest to do if jdu are using longer screws than those supplied with the router. Ream out the mounting holes so you can shift the router position, then retighten the screws. Do this as necessary to get the : correct cut.

Hie finished panel has a tongue around the edge that fits perfectly mlo the frame's groove. The bevel is smooth, needing only a lick or two with fine-grit sandpaper, if that.

Moreover, use a high fence, since this provides a place to clamp hold-downs like featherboards. A basic, one-board fcncc will guide the work, but you really need the featherboards to control it and prevent the work from lifting from the tabletop. So use a fence with a 5- or 4-inch-high back, and clamp two featherboards to it, one on each side of the bit.

If you can't really lower the bit below the tabletop, set the fence closer to you for the first pass or two, then back it away so the fence is flush with the edge of the pilot for subsequent passes.

A curved cut can be done only in the regular router table. Use a starting pin to help you control the cut. Obviously, you can't use featherboards, but a hold-down like Fred's plesiosaur can help hold the work firmly to the tabletop. (See the

(continued on page 217)

Making Architectural Doors and Windows

Cabinetry Joinery Router Bit How Use

Doors and windows for a building—your house, for example—are built using the same frame-and-panel construction as we've presented in this chapter. Usually the stock is heftier—ranging in thickness from a full inch up to IV-» inches—but the same bits and techniques used for cabinetry will work for this architectural work.

Cope-and-stick joinery is probably satisfactory for interior doors and for fixed and double-hung windows. It provides enough glue surface for contemporary glues to provide a strong, long-lasting bond, even on a door. What makes it less than adequate for exterior doors and for awning or casement windows Is exposure to weather. After a few years of baking in the sun and soaking in the rain and freezing in the snow, the wood's expansion and contraction will probably knock cope-and-stick joinery apart. Here you need full mortise-and-tcnon joinery.

Making an interior door. The parts and dimensions of a fairly typical interior door are shown in Architectural Door. To make the door, you would cut the frame parts to size, then rout the sticking on the appropriate edges and cope the ends of the rails. You can use standard cope-and-stick bits to work heavy stock if you make two passes. Make the first pass with the workpiece facedown, the second pass

An architectural door typically has thicker rails and stiles than a cabinet door and is styled the same on both sides. You can use a regular cope-and-stick bit set or assembly to rout these frame pieces. When making the stick cut. adjust the bit height so the groove is centered, then make two passes (top right) to get the profile on both edges of the stock. Similarly, the cope cuts are made in two passes. But you must remove the slotting cutter from the cope bit (bottom right).

with it faceup. Obviously, you have to adjust the bit height so the groove (or tenon) will be centered across the stock. Depending on the stock thickness and the sticking pattern, you may want to

Am exterior door should hose its cope-and-stick joinery reinforced with mortises and loose tenons. Cut the mortises on the horizontal table, as shown. Use a spiral bit the same size as the stub produced by the cope cut, and line it up even with that stub. When you cut the mortise, the operation will remove a section of the stub.

make the groove (and consequently the tongue) wider than V* inch. When you raise the panels, do it on both faces, but don't make the tongue less thick than the sticking groove is wide.

Making an exterior door. An exterior door would be made in pretty much the same way. But after sticking all the frame parts and coping the rails, cut mortises in both stiles and rails for long, loose tenons. Obviously, you have to trim the stub tenons from the rails. Use the longest Winch bit you can to rout the mortises. Freud sells a Winch straight with ¿Winch-long cutting edges and a 4Winch overall length. With it, you should be able to cut mortises about 3 inches deep in the stiles and lYs inches deep in the rails (the coping on the rail ends limits the bit's reach). The tenons should be cut from solid wood. Use waterproof glue to assemble the door.

Mortises With The Router

frieze panel

/USE MORTISE-AND-TCWOW JOINERY FOR EXTERIOR POOR

mortise dttlctnm frieze rail loose ^ tenon mullion stile

PANEL RAISED ON BOTH SIDES

lock rail

FRAME MEMBER ' STlCKED ON BOTM EDC,tS

bottom panel cope cut reruires two passes i turn rail over ^

between passes.

bottom rail

COPE-ANDSTIGK JOINERY X IS OKAY FOR INTERIOR DOOR. /

middle panel

(umiinuaf)

Muntins Table Saw

/USI COPt-iNO-STlCK JOINERY FOR FIXED WINDOWS.

stile

/horizontal / muntin5 extend only tue wiotu of one li gut.

VERTICAL MUNTIN"--. EXTENDS FROM TOP v RAIL TO BOTTOM RAU..

bottom rail

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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