To joint on a router table, you need a jointing fence. But it's a different sort of fence than the one used with a hand-held router. Like the jointer's infeed and outfeed tables, the router table's jointing fence needs infeed and outfeed sections, adjusted to support the work both before the bit trims away stock and after.
The most simple jointing fence is a strip of V^-inch plywood withi bit notch and a strip of plastic (annate glued to it. left of the bit,« shown in Jointing Fence. You ca bond the laminate to the fence widi contact cement, or you can use double-sided carpet tape. The fence doesn't need to be as high ;is (he stock being jointed, diough of course the bit does.
If you've equipped your rouia table with a split fence, as presented in the chapter "Router Table Accessories." you don't need a jointini fence. All you have to do is adjust the two fence sections separately, to serve as infeed and outfeed suppons;
The least vexing way to do thii. according to Fred, who knows this stuff, is to line up the two sections using a straightedge. Then set the fence to remove the amount of stock you have in mind. say. V\t inch Feed a test board along the infeed half of | the fence, across the bit. andabouti foot beyond. Stop, and turn off the
If you want to ase a flush-trimming bit to joint boards and you are really serious about it, get yourself the mother-of-all-really-serious-flush-trimmers, made by Paso Robles Carbide. It's called a face-frame trimmer.
The bit is ideal for squaring up large, thick, heavy panels. Butcher-block son of stufT. Crosscut the work with a circular saw, then plane and true the end-grain edge with this trimmer in a hand-held router. And even though the bit is a flush-trimmer, it can be used in a router table with a jointing fence setup.
On a '/»-inch, heat-treated shank, Paso Robles mounts a 1 '/s-inch-diametcr, 2/2-inch-long spiral power-plane cutter. The pilot can be mounted above or below the cutter. And because it is soft-rimmed, the pilot can be resized when the cutter is sharpened. This is a BIG bit, and you need BIG power to run it—a minimum, says Paso Robles, of 2Vi horsepower. I've used it in a 2-horsepowcr Milwaukee router with good results.
The relatively large diameter of the cutter helps minimize chip-out. The spiral contour of the cutting edges allows the bit to slice the wood rather than chop it, yielding a particularly smooth surface.
The price is pretty big, too: The face frame trimmer lists for over $100. See, I said you had to be serious. (If the size and price trouble you, consider the half-height version, also shown in the photo.)
The split fence is easy to set up for jointing, anil it allows sou to vary- the ait depth murJi more easily than the jointing faicc. To set the fence, mark the amount of material you want to remove on the workpiece (top). Use
(hat mark to set thcfcncc.
Cut about 10 inches of the uorhpiece (center), then stop. Vote the gap between the vi vrkpiece and the out feed fence. With the workpiece held firmly against the infeed fence (bottom), loosen the eutfeed fence. Push it up to tlic workpiece. then retighten k Sow you can complete ¡his first cut and make subsequent cuts with the work fulh supported on both infeed uul outfeed sides of the hit.
The biggest constraint in using the router for jointing Is the bit's cutting-edge length. The typical straight bit has a 1-inch cutting capacity, with longer ones extending that to Wi inches. With the longer bits, you can barely handle a 6/4 board.
Ereud has a Winch straight— catalog number 12-130—with a 2^-inch cutting length. (See "Sources" on page 337.) This is the longest straight bit I've seen. Cutting judiciously, you should be able to joint up to 10/4 stock with this bit. And you can use it for many other straight-bit jobs.
router. The board should be free of the outfeed fence. Clamp rhe board tightly against the infeed fence, and adjust the outfeed fence so it supports the routed edge. Remove the clamp and resume routing the test board. It should be supported through the remainder of the cut by both the infeed and outfeed fences. If this is the case, you arc set up to joint your good stock.
The ideal bit. in all these cases, is a fairly heavy but well-balanced straight bit. Always use a '/i-irch-shank bit if possible.
Just as you can taper legs on a jointer, you can do it on the router table. And you'll probably feel safer doing it with the router, loo. Mark the extremity of the cutting edge on the tabletop, and mark where you want the taper to begin on the leg blank. Line up the two marks and "joint"from thar point to the end of the leg. Keep repeating this operation until you've achieved the degree of taper you want.
The horizon tal router table can easily function as a jointer. Use carpet tape to stick a strip of plastic laminate to the tabletop—forming the outfeed surface and estalh lishing the amount of stock to be removed per pass, Set the bit's cutting edge flush with this surface.
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There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.