By Stephen H Blenk

Turning »mall i» »¡tuple if you maintain a light touch. Her«*, author delirately »and» the cup before applying a fim»h.

Rosewood is a good choice for your first goblet because it's very hard and dense. To start, rip out an octagonal piece of straight-grained rosewood with no visible defects. The piece should be large enough to make a goblet about Vi in. high with enough extra length to grip in the chuck and allow clearance between the chuck and goblet so you can work on the base of the turning.

For this goblet. I held the wood with a three-jaw chuck, but you can use anv of the methods discussed in

the accompanying article. The thinnest part of the goblet, in this case the stem, should be closest to the hcadstock. Make sure your mounting technique keeps the wood secure and allows vou to remove the tailstock

once the piece is rounded. You won't be- able to turn the interior of the cup with the tailstock in place.

With the tailstock center against the wood, take a Win. wide gouge and carefully turn the octagonal workpiece to a cylinder about in. greater in diameter than the desired goblet. Remove the tailstock and face off the end of the blank with a skew.

Now begin to shape the piece. Turn the exterior of the upper bowl first, then the interior, the stem, and finallv the base. Remember to com-pletely finish the bowl before moving

Slia|N> the out»ide of the cup with the »liort point of ih«' fikrw. (¡Note the dimple from the tail»tock renter.)

on to the other parts. If you try to go back to the bowl after turning the more delicate components, you're liable to break the piece.

One design note: Look at a few goblets or perhaps a stemware catalog to get an idea of styles and proportions. Work on approximating a desirable shape rather than using exact measurements. You will find many different w

After rotigliiujr the hlank into a cylinder, fare off the end with a nketv.

Chuck a drill in the tailstock and remove most of the waste from the interior of the bowl.

Shape the inside of the cup with a tiny gou^e or scraper. Sand and finish the cup, inside and out.

Apply a finish to the head, then undercut the l>cad with the |M>uit of a *kcw or a hook-»lta|M*d tool to free the ring.

Shape the inside of the cup with a tiny gou^e or scraper. Sand and finish the cup, inside and out.

To turn a ring on the stem. fir>t form a head with a small parting tool.

styles and forms to try. As your skills increase, you can try your own design ideas and move on to more difficult examples.

For your first goblet, I'd recommend allowing for an inside diameter of about lA in. and a depth of % in. The goblet shown here is -V« in. high and % in. in dia. I shaped the outside with a to-in. skew, which left a very polished finish, but you could also use a gouge or a scrapcr. Make sure you dress the front edge, which will be the rim of the goblet. I used the tip of the skew for this procedure.

During shaping, do not take the bottom edge of the goblet down to final diameter where it connects to the stem! If you do, the cup will separate from the turning when stressed as you hollow out the interior.

I cheated a bit to hollow out the cup by using a drill bit of appropriate size chucked in the tailstock to remove the bulk of the material. (See photo.) If you do this, be sure not to exceed the depth of the cup. With the hole drilled, you can turn the walls and bottom of the goblet to final dimension with either a miniature gouge or a round-nosed scraper. Try for consistent wall thickness, and don't leave a high spot in the center of the bottom. Sand and then finish the goblet cup with oil or a shellac French polish. Once you arc done, stay away from the at/)! If you attempt to work on the cup after you thin the stem, the turning will probably break.

The stem is the touchy part. To remain in proportion, it must be about '/it. in. or less in diameter. This is where the denser tropical woods really pay off. Exotics are strong enough to work at this reduced diameter. Remove the waste gradually, using a small gouge. Final cuts can be made with a miniature skew chisel. Work from the cup end in sections, finishing any design details as you go.

One nice touch is to create a free ring on the stem of the goblet as shown in the photo. This is done by turning a thin bead on the stem with a small parting tool and then undercutting it with the point of a skew or a hook-shaped tool made from a flooring nail. (See photo.) You must finish the duck for the sling, walnut for the wedges, and cherry* for the cradle itself. If you'd prefer dark red or blue canvas, a lighter wood such as ash or maple would look good.

Building the Cradle

Start by making a full-sized half pattern of the headboard and footboard from lu-in. plywood. (See Fig. 1.) Mark, but do not cut out, the mortises and the handholds.

Unless you have 17-in. wide stock, join up 4/4 boards, using dowels or biscuits for strength. Try to minimize any differences in grain and color. If you have a planer that's wide enough, smooth down the glued-up boards to a final thickness of H in. Otherwise, finish the boards with a cabinet scraper and sandpaper.

Mark centerlines on both sides of the headboard and footboard. Next, on the outside only, lay the pattern along the centerlinc and draw around it. I'rick through the pattern with an awl to mark the comers of the mortises. Mark also the center of the ~*-in. hole for the handhold. I-lip the pattern over to draw and mark the other half of the headlxKird and footboard.

Bandsaw the end pieces to shape, and then clean up their edges on a disc sander. You can round over the edges with a router and pilot bit, or use a combination of round-soled and flat-soled spokeshaves.

With this done, you can cut the handholds and mortises. First, draw the outline of the handhold and drill Vin.

holes at the centers you marked. Cut

out the waste with a coping saw. then shape the edges with wood files and sandpaper until the opening feels comfortable to the hand.

The through mortises in the headboard and footboard are not square to the surface, but instead arc slanted. Tilt your drill-press table 10° to the horizontal to drill them. If your table doesn't tilt, you can make an inclined table from plywood. Drill through the comers of each mortise with a '/i^in. dia. bit. making sure the centerlinc of the headboard or footboard is aligned with the line of slope of the inclined table. Joining these holes with knife marks gives you the exact position of the mortise on the opposite face.

If you don't have a drill press, approximate the angle by sighting across the drill bit to a bevel gauge or make a small, 10° drill guide. You might want to practice on a piece of scrap stock if you go this route, but if your mortise is off a bit, the shoulders will cover the gap.

No matter how vou establish the

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