Loop and stitch to form end pockets. Sew

Shape edges with a spokeshave or router.


Shape edges with a spokeshave or router.

Loop and stitch to form end pockets. Sew

Tin* /«*la »aw feature* spinele** ¡iilerrlutiigeahle Made» for ripping ami croasctitling. Hie flexible eroHHCiil Mail«».* have pra«*lieally 110 set, making llii'iii ideal for f1it*li «Milling (inne! pliolo.)

to the thickness of the saw blade. I repeat this entire process until the rails' tenon shoulders seat firmly against the inside surface of the headboard and footboard.

With the tenon fitting complete, I remove the wedges and trim them to their final shape. An equal amount of wedge should show above and below the tenon.

You can use a cabinet scraper to remove the slight scratches left by the Japanese saw on the inside of the headboard and footboard. Don't attempt this saw-fitting technique with a blade that has teeth prominently set. You will inflict scars on the wood that are difficult to remove.

Make the canvas sling to the size and shape shown in Fig. 2. The two end pockets are part of the sling, but the middle pocket is made up separately and then sewn on to reduce stress on the seam. If you don't have a sewing machine that can handle 10-oz. cotton duck, you can order the sling ready-made (available from the Reinhardt Awning Co., 550 Dalton St.. Emmaus. PA 18019, 215-965-2544). The company made the canvas sling shown in the photo and kept a pattern for future use.

The mattress pad is simply a piece of '/»-in. fir plywood. 12 in. by 27 in., wrapped in 1 -in. thick I)acfon batting (available from most upholstery-supply stores). To waterproof the pad. I wrapped the batting and plywood in a piece of 5-mil plastic large enough to l>e folded around the edges and stapled on the underside.

I finished the cradle with a tung-oil varnish. After the first application, I put on a second coat and wet sanded it with 600-grit wet/dry abrasive paper. Before the oil could get tacky, I wiped all the surfaces with a cotton rag to remove any surplus. ▲

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