LONGEST DIMENSION ^ SHOULDER TO SHOULDER
Stop chamfers */i in. from end
Author saws around rails' tenon shoulders so they'll m
Author saws around rails' tenon shoulders so they'll m seat firmly against the headboard and footboard.
the design some time. After ripping out and planing the rails, cut each one to the exact length. (See Fig. 1.)
I shown in Fig. 1 and mark the shoulders. After sawing them, clean up the tenons and fit them to their rcpcctive mortises in ihe headboard and footboard. Do not worry about the final fit; you'll adjust the tenons shortly. Chamfer each edge the entire length of the rail, stopping % in. short of the shoulder.
Next, make the wedges for the tenons by planing your stock to a shade under XA in. thick and tracing the shape from the pattern. You'll want to leave the wedges long until you have fit the shoulders of the three tenons.
The VWn. mortises the wedges fit into are best cut with a drill-press mortising attachment. (Sec aw, *26.) You can make the part of the mortise that will fall inside the headboard and foot board square to the rail since this will be hidden. For the outside of the mortise, make the slanting cuts by setting the drill-press table at an angle to match the wedge. (See Fig. 1.)
If you don't own a drill press, remove the waste with a Vifrin. brad-point bit. working from both sides. Clean up the inside with a chisel. Test fit a wedge, and adjust the outside angle of the mortise if necessary.
To fit the tenon shoulders, I use a 265-mm Japanese joiner)' saw. (Sec sidebar. The Saw That Does It /VII.) I first assemble the cradle, tap the wedges into place, and check the angles between the top of the bottom rail and the centerlines of the headboard and footboard. If they are not the same, I clamp opposite corners of the headboard and footboard. I then tighten the clamps until the angles are equal.
I then gently saw around each shoulder down to the tenon, being careful not to cut the tenon. (Sec photo.) As I drive the wedges farther in, the gaps close by an amount equal
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