• FinishSupply.com, www.shellac.net (707) 226-3623, Dry Powdered Tannin, 8 oz. $9.98.
• Highland Woodworking, highlandwoodworking.com, (800) 241-6748, Liberon 4/0 Steel Wool, 100g.S9.99.
Sand with fine paper to remove any fibers sticking up from the wood's surface.
by Jeff Corns
our front hall is usually a disorganized mess: coats on the floor, keys strewn here and there, and hats—well, I can never find them. I built this wall shelf to provide a place for everything and to display some decorative objects, too. When I was done, my wife thought it would be useful in the kitchen too. Now, I'm making a second one!
Most of the wall shelf is built from 3/4" pine, which you can buy at a home center. Just be sure it's flat and straight. I used some old wood from a house I was remodeling. The boards were mismatched in color and full of nail holes and other flaws, so I painted the wall shelf to blend the parts together. I used green because this color also symbolizes good stewardship of our resources, such as recycling this lumber.
The joinery is pretty simple. Most of the parts are just butted and nailed together. Biscuits reinforce these joints and align the parts, making assembjy easier.
1. Start by ripping the sides (A) and bottom shelf (B) to the same width. Also, rip the middle shelf (C) and dividers (D) to the same width. Rip the top (E), peg board (F) and wall cleat (G) to width. Trim all of these pieces to length. Note that the shelves, peg board and cleat are the same length.
2. Lay out the spacing of the drawer dividers on the middle and lower shelves (Fig. A). Cut biscuit joints in the drawer dividers (Photo 1) and shelves (Photo 2).
3. Rout a plate groove in the middle shelf (Photo 3 and Fig. D). Dado or rout a rabbet in the back edge of the bottom shelf to receive the back boards (Fig. C).
4. Temporarily clamp together the two shelves and the drawer dividers. Stand this assembly on one of the sides, in £ the correct location (Fig. E), and draw lines around the ends | of the shelves. Remove and unclamp the assembly. Butt the < marked side to the unmarked side and transfer the layout lines. Cut biscuit joints in the sides and the ends of both shelves.
5. Cut and smooth arches in the bottom ends of the sides (Fig. E). Rout a rabbet on the sides for the back boards. Drill holes for the pegs (P) in the peg board.
6. Glue and nail the bottom shelf to the peg board (Photo 4). Make sure the ends are flush. Add the drawer dividers and middle shelf (Photo 5). Make sure the fronts of £ these pieces are flush.
7. Add the sides (Photo 6). Clamp these joints, too.
8. Once the glue is dry, stand this assembly upside down on the top piece. Mark around the sides on the top, then cut biscuit slots in the top and ends of the sides. Glue the top to the assembly (Photo 7).
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