Richard Raffan

is a turner and author in New South Walts, Australia.

Final cuts. Wedge the base onto a jam chuck to expose its lower half After initial shaping with a gouge, refine the sides with a skew (left). Work the underside first with a gouge (center), then with a skew (right). Hold the skew flat on the rest.

AMERICAN WOODWORKER A APRIl 19 9 6 3 9

Build i Bar St oo

Splayed Legs Are a Snap With Loose-Te enon

Joinery by Andy Rae

he simple bar stool gets a bum rap. This unassum-ing piece of furniture has great practicality. It waits patiently under a counter, eager to support our posteriors, or it sits quietly in a corner, holding our potted plants. Because it's light and compact, a bar stool can be used anywhere inside the house or out, and it's ready at a moment's notice for impromptu seating.

I designed the stool shown here as part of a set that includes a small breakfast table and two stools (the table plans appear in AW #50). Building the stool is a pleasant exercise in small-scale furniture making, though 1 recommend making several at a time. This particular piece lends itself to production runs—and, like clamps, you can never have too many stools.

If you want to make a stool that can withstand everyday use and abuse, it's important to consider two aspects of design: stability and sound joinery. I used mortisc-and-

tenon joinery for strength, and I splayed the legs outward to give the stool a solid, stable stance that won't accidentally upset the sitter. To simplify the construction process, I chose loose-tenon joinery for the necessary compound-angled joints. All you'll need to cut these joints is a tablesaw and a plunge router. More on this later.

At 24 in. high, the stool is designed to stow comfortably underneath the breakfast table in the set. (See photo, left.) If this isn't important to you, alter the height of the stool to suit your own needs. In any case, I suggest you stay within a degree or two of the splay shown in Figs. 1 and 2, to ensure that the stool will be stable in use.

Strong and stable. Splayed legs and mortise-and-tenon joints make a solid seat that's built to last. The stool and its mate are designed to complement the author's kitchen worktable.

1 recommend that you make the stool from a hardwood for strength. I made the stool shown here from cherry except for the scat, which is made from a piece of butternut. Before cutting any wood, 1 made a full-size drawing of the stool on a scrap panel. Then 1 used my bevel gauge to lay out the necessary angles and to set the angles on blades, fences and the like.

Construction Notes

All the information you need to build the stool is shown in Figs. 1 and 2, but a few notes about the construction process are in order:

Sawing angles—Making the compound angle cuts on the ends of the legs (see Fig. 1) is simply a matter of tilting your saw blade and adjusting your miter gauge to the correct angles. I cut one end on all of the legs, then I marked each leg to length and cut its opposite end by lining up the leg to the blade by eye.

1 find it best to make each pair of upper and lower rails (sec Fig. I) from one piece of wood, then rip the stock into two pieces later. This allows me to get a nice grain match and simplifies angling and mortising the ends. I used a sliding miter saw to make the angled cuts, but you can use the tablesaw and a miter gauge easily enough. Just adjust the miter gauge to the correct angle. At this point, cut only one end of each stretcher; you'll cut the opposite end later. Rip the bevel on the edges of the stock by tilting the saw blade to the same angle used to cut the ends of the legs as above. (See Fig. 1.)

Routing mortises—I routed all the mortises on the legs, rail stock and stretchers at the bench with a plunge router and edge guide. It's a quick, easy, accurate way to mill mortises.

Rout the leg mortises by ganging two legs together to provide a stable platform for the router, as shown in the left photo on page 42. To control the cut, rout against the rotation of the bit by keeping the edge guide on the right side of the workpiece as you push the router away from you.

Next, clamp a rail between two legs and mark the finished length of a I stretcher. (See center photo, page 42.) Cut the angle on the end of the stretcher on the tablesaw as before, then use this piece to lay out the remaining stretchers and cut them to length as well.

I routed the mortises in the rail stock and the stretchers with the work held

Woodshop Desks With Hidden Compartment

Compound cutting. Trim the lef>s to length by Ix'velin^ the blade and angling the miter uauge.

FIG. 2: ELEVATION AND SECTIONS

FIG. 2: ELEVATION AND SECTIONS

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

Get My Free Ebook


Post a comment