With the jig properly adjusted, you can cut a test spindle.
chuck into drill. To do this, first securely chuck the end of the spindle blank in the drill. Shop Note: A variable speed drill, turning clockwise, works best.
b1ank into jig. With one end of the blank chucked in the drill, lubricate the other end that goes into the tailstock. 0 used paraffin wax.) This reduces friction so the spindle blank can spin freely.
turning. The nice thing about using this spindle jig is it's a simple (but noisy) operation. It's probably best to find a friend to help. One person can operate the drill. Gust about anyone can do this. It's a matter of holding the drill and turning it on.) But the person operating the router will require a little more skill. (That would be you, right?)
The idea is for the drill to begin turning the spindle blank. Then the person operating the router sets the router on the runners (next to the drill), and moves the router slowly to the other end of the spindle. One pass, one smoothly tapered spindle.
A note about speed. For the smoothest taper (that requires minimal sanding), the drill should turn the workpiece at a constant speed — about medium on most drills. And the router should be advanced very slowly (about Vie" per second). Otherwise, the re suit will look more like a "threaded" dowel than a tapered spindle, see box below.
ITo adjust the jig, first set the depth of the router bit Vj" below the base plate of the router. Then place the router on the runners at the drill end of the jig.
2 Next, check that the roider bit is just touching the dowel where the taper begins. If adjustment is necessary, move the headstock up or doivn.
Now slide the roider down the runners to the other end of the jig. Then check that the bit is just touching the tenon. Adjust the tailstock if necessary.
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