Stepbystep instructions




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1T0 build the stool, I started by gluing up a seat blank from 1 Vg'-wide strips flipped on edge. Sand the blank, and then draw a centered baseline for a triangle.

2 Now the third corner of the triangle can be located and marked. To do this, I used a beam compass to strike two arcs that intersect at the top.

Next, lay out the corners of the seat. To get smooth, rounded corners, use a compass and draw a 1 Vg*-radius circle around each corner of the triangle.

4 Now the shape of the seat can be established. I used the beam compass set to a radius of 12Vf to draw the arcs. (Use the same centerpoints as in Step 3.)

5 Later, to drill the leg holes at the correct angle, you unll need centerlines as reference marks. So complete the triangle and draw centerlines now.

shape. The seat has three sides, all the same length. (There's probably a name for the shape, but I'm not sure what it is.) It's sort of a modified triangle — with large arcs instead of straight lines.

legs. For strength, I also used red oak for the legs. You can start with lV^"-dia. oak dowels for these. But since I had enough 8/4 stock left over from the seat blank, I made my own dowels. For more on this, see page 14.

wedges & finish. To keep the legs firmly in the seaL I wedged the leg tenons. A wedged tenon will hold a joint together better than a joint without a wedge. (For contrast, I cut the wedges from walnuL)

Then for the finish, I wiped on two coats of tung oil, allowing 48 hours between coats.

6 The last step to laying out the seat is to mark 1 " dia. holes for the legs. I used a compass (set for Vg" radius) and the same centerpoints as before.

7 After the leg holes are laid out, they can be drilled at an angle. Position the drill bit guide (see bottom of page) directly over circles drawn in Step 6.

Now the legs can be made. I used the technique described on pages 18 to 21. After the legs are turned to shape, ad them to length, leaving a 2"-long tenon.

UTo prevent binding when cutting the wedges to length, I positioned the rip fence so wedges fall to the left side of blade. With a chisel, split wedges to width.

8 Because my Forstner bit has a short shank, I completed each hole without the bit guide. To do this, eyeball the angle of the bit the rest of the way through the hole.

nTo make the leg joint stronger, I wedged the tenon, refer to Step U. The safest way I've found to cut a kerf for the wedge is to use a shop-made kerfxng jig.

Now the stool can be assembled. First, apply ghie to tenons. Next, insert tenons through bottom of seat. Then glue and drive the wedges into the kerfs.

9 Once the holes a re drilled, c\& oid the seat. For this, I adjust outside the line. Then sanded up to the line. To complete the seat, round overall the edges.

1 I cut the wedges to fit the tenons I from an oversized blank. For a tight fit, tilt the saw blade 3° and cut the wedges so they just fit the kerfs.

^ C To complete the stool, trim the ■ J tenoned ends flush with the seat. To do this, I used a hand-held router with a straight bit set flush to the base plate.

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