Driver Access Holes

56 www.AmericanWQodwDrlcer.com october.1 November 2009

this bit allows routing all the parts from the same basic setup.

32.Cut the drawer bottom (N) to final size and finish sand the inside faces of all the drawer parts.

33. Assemble the drawer with glue and brads. Make sure the inside bottom edge of the drawer front is flush with the bottom edges of the sides. Lay a thin bead of glue in the grooves and slide in the bottom. Make sure the drawer is square.Then fasten the bottom to the drawer back with screws.

34.Test fit the drawer and make any necessary adjustments. Position the drawer so it's front is flush with the frame.Then glue on the drawer stops (P). Apply glue and butt one stop to the back end of each drawer side.

35. Make the drawer pull (Q). Bevel one edge of a wide 3/4" thick board at 10°. Return the blade to 90" and rip the pull from the board as an offcut. Cut the pull to length. (I mitered the ends at the 2-1/2" bevel angle, so the pull's face is wider at the bottom, like the legs.) Sand the pull and the drawer front. Then glue on the pull with its beveled edge down, so it acts as a finger grip.

Sunday evening

36. Glue the screw block (R) to the back rail. Drill holes in the drawer kickers, the screw block and the top support rail for the top-mounting screws (Fig, C). Elongate all the holes but the two at the center, to allow for the top's seasonal movement.

37. Drill access holes for your screwdriver through the bottom rail and supports (Fig, CJ.Coincidentally (not intentionally), the outside access holes align with the diagonal screw pockets,

38. Rough sand both sides of the top, to level both surfaces,

39. Cut the top to final dimensions. I beveled both the edges and ends at 21/2°, but this time, the bevels slope in at the bottom.

40. Fasten the top to the base (Photo 12). Mark centerlines on the bottom of the top and inside the base. Then use the lines to automatically center the base on the top.

41. Clamp the base to the top,Then install the screws.

Next weekend

(You can build this table in a weekend; i didn't say you could finish it, too.)

42. Remove the top. Then finishsand the top and the base,

43. Apply your favorite finish. I started with a coat of SealCoat (dewaxed shellac) to bring out the rich color of the walnut. Then, as this table is likely to get lots of wear, I brushed on two coats of polyurethane.

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