Waxed Paper

Glue the pieces back together, using the centerline for alignment and the unglued drawer front as a spacer. Set this assembly aside—you'll rip it to width later, along with the other aprons.

OCTOBER/NOVEM BEB 2009 www,JLmericanWoodwortter.com S3

Bevel both edges when you rip the aprons to width. Both bevels must slope in the same direction, so bevel one edge with the board front-face up and the other edge with the board front-face down.

Bevel both edges when you rip the aprons to width. Both bevels must slope in the same direction, so bevel one edge with the board front-face up and the other edge with the board front-face down.

Assemble the legs arid aprons with pocket screw joinery. A pocket screw jig positions the workpiece and guides the drill bit, which automatically drills a counterbored shank hole.
Fasten the aprons so they follow the slope of the tapered legs. Use spacers to create the 1 /8" setback. Make sure the top edges are flush. Reinforce the joints with glue.

slopes to match the frame that surrounds it. Incidentally, the drawer front and frame are cut from a single board, so the grain flows continuously—a traditional building technique that's too good—and too simple—to ignore.

This table requires only 25 bd.ft. of primary wood and 9 bd.ft, of secondary wood, so building it won't cost an arm and a leg (see Cutting List, page 57). Both amounts include a generous amount of waste, so you may do with even less. Also, all of the pieces are short and/or narrow, so you might not have to buy top-grade lumber, either. You can glue up 4/4 stock for the legs if 8/4 stock isn't available.

Friday evening

(Okay, it's gonna be a long weekend.)

1. If you're working with rough-sawn lumber, mill alt your boards to thickness.Then decide how each board will be used.

2. Choose the best boards for the top (Part A, Fig. B, opposite, and Photo 1).Cut them slightly oversize in length and joint the edges square. When you glue these boards together, make sure their faces are flush, to minimize sanding. Remove all squeezed-out glue before it hardens. Leave the top clamped up overnight

3. If you're gluing up the leg stock, do it now.

Saturday morning

4. Unclamp the top and set it aside for the time being. Stand it on end, so air can circulate freely all around,or raise it on stickers if you store it flat.

5. Make the front apron assembly (B1-B4) from a board that's oversize in both width and length (Photo 2).Start by marking a centertine across the board's width. First, rip a 1" wide length, to create the top rail (Bl). Reset the fence and rip a 4" wide length, to create the piece that includes the drawer front and end spacers (B2 and B3).The offcut from this second rip, which must also be at least V wide, is the bottom rail (B4).

6. Crosscut the middle piece to create the drawer front. Measure from

Fig.A Leg and Apron Details

3A"

-3»! [-Wie the centerllne to locate both ends. Then make each cut on the outside edge of the line.The two offcuts become the end spacers.

7. Create the front apron frame by gluing the board back together with the ungtued drawer front trapped inside (Photo 3). Use the centerline to locate the drawer front and rails, and snug the end spacers against the drawer front ends. Use waxed paper to keep the drawer front from getting stuck by squeezed-out glue. Make sure the rail and spacer faces are flush at the glue joints. Set this assembly aside until the glue dries.

8. Mill the leg blanks (C) square, cut them to final length, and pencil full-length tapers on two adjacent sides. Mark the inside corner on both ends of the blank—it's the only corner that will remain untouched and square after the tapers are cut.

9. Saw each taper on the waste side of the layout line (Photo 4). Remove the saw marks using a hand plane, a jointer, or by sanding.

54 www.fimeiicanWoodwoiker.com October/ November 2009

Fig. B Exploded View

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Fig. B Exploded View

Saturday afternoon

10. Use one of the legs to determine the bevel angle (Photo 5). Note the angle (about 2-1/2°) on your saw's bevel scale, because all of the beveled cuts used to assemble this table will be made at this angle.

11 .With the saw blade tilted to the bevel angle, rip the front apron frame's top rail to final width—3/4", measured on its back face. Make sure this bevel slopes toward the frame's front face. Keep the drawer front installed during the cut, to stabilize the assembly.

12. Rip the top edges of the back and side aprons (D and E) at the same angle. Again, make sure each bevel slopes toward the front face,

13. Bevel-rip the front apron frame and all three aprons to final width. On all of these pieces, the top and bottom bevels must slope in the same direction (Photo 6).The 5-1/2" final width

5? LOCK JOZJT(TYP)

given in the Cutting List is approximate; the key is to set the fence so that the back face of the apron frame's bottom rail ends up exactly 3/4" wide. (Keep the drawer front installed when you make the cut) Once you've ripped the apron frame to final width, use the same fence setting to bevel-rip remaining three aprons.

14. Crosscut all the aprons to final length. Measure from the centerline to locate the ends of the front apron frame and keep the drawer front installed while you make the cuts. Make sure that each pair of aprons are identical in length.

Saturday evening

(You're having too much fun to go out, right?)

15. Drill pocket screw holes in the aprons (Photo 7), Stagger the holes so they're higher on the side aprons than on the front and back aprons (Fig. A). Then the screws won't collide when you fasten the legs.

3£/£LG> Ox$£.7YP^ B£/£L£2> £M> (TYP.)

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2009 www.AmericanWaodworker.com 55

Install the bottom rail support with glue and pocket screws. To fit the sloping rails, this piece is beveled on the front edge and both ends. Allow the glue to tack-set before driving the screws.

Install the drawer supports with glue and pocket screws. A special clamp holds the joint flush while you install the screws. Follow the same procedures to install the top rail support and the drawer kickers.

Install the bottom rail support with glue and pocket screws. To fit the sloping rails, this piece is beveled on the front edge and both ends. Allow the glue to tack-set before driving the screws.

Install the drawer supports with glue and pocket screws. A special clamp holds the joint flush while you install the screws. Follow the same procedures to install the top rail support and the drawer kickers.

Cut the front end of the drawer sides at an angle, so the drawer front will slope to match the apron, which slopes to match the tapered leg.

Fasten the top after centering the base and clamping it in position.

16. Assemble the table ends (Photo 8),Clamp a side apron to your bench face-side down, with 1/8" hardboard spacers underneath. Position the legs as shown in the photo, with a square face butted against the apron and the adjacent tapered face on the bench,

17. Apply glue to both ends of the apron. Snug the tegs against the apron and clamp them to the bench, making sure the top of the leg is flush with the beveled top edge of the apron.Then gently clamp the legs to the apron. Allow the glue to tack-set (5 to 10 minutes).Then install the 1-1/4" fine thread, washer head pocket screws. Unclamp the assembly and remove the squeezed-out glue.

18. Follow a similar procedure to fasten the back apron to the assembled ends. Before you install the pocket screws, make sure each assembled end is square to the back apron. Repeat the process to fasten the front apron frame.

Sunday morning

(Option #1: Go to church;#2: Play golf; #3: Sleep in.)

Sunday afternoon

19. Complete the table base. Cut and fit the bottom rail support (F). Bevel its front edge to match the front apron rail and both ends to match the side aprons.To determine the support's length, measure at the bottom edges of the aprons.Then cut the support to fit. Start oversize in length; then shave one end with additional cuts to achieve a perfect, snug fit.Carefully notch the front comers to fit around the legs.

20. Drill pocket holes in the bottom face of the support (Fig. C), Drill the holes for the leg screws at 45°. Don't drill these holes full-depth— leave about 1/2" between the end of the hole and the notch.

21. Apply glue and clamp the support to the front rail and side aprons (Photo 9).The support should be flush with both edges of the rail and with the bottom edge of both side aprons. Let the glue tack; then install the pocket screws.

22. Cut the drawer supports (G) to fit. Bevel the outside edge and the back end of these mirror-image parts, and cut the notches.

23. Drill pocket holes in the bottom faces of both drawer supports (Fig.C) and install them with glue and screws (Photo 10).

24. Install the drawer guides, (H) using a carpenter's square.

25. Cut and fit the top rail support (J), Use the same procedure as for the bottom support, but this time, measure between the top apron edges to determine the length, and drill the pocket holes in the top face (Fig.C), Note that you don't have to drill any holes at 45°. Fasten the top rail support with glue and screws,

26.Cut,fitand install the drawer kickers (K and Fig.C).

27. Cut the drawer front (B2) and drawer sides (L) to final width.

28. Cut the front ends of the drawer sides at the bevel angle (Photo 11).

29. Saw or rout grooves to house the bottom in all three pieces.

30. Cut the drawer back (M) to final width. Then cut the drawer front and back to final length, 1 /16" shorter than the opening in the frame.

31. Create the drawer joints. I used a drawer lock bit (see Sources). Used in a router table with a fence,

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