Adjustable Miter Fence

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One of the best accessories 1 have for my table saw is an adjustable fence for my miter gauge (Fig.! }. (I designed a holder on the Saw Cabinet to hold the miter gauge with a fence.)

The fence is made of two interlocking parts—a short rabbeted top piece that's screwed to the miter gauge. And a long, rabbeted bottom piece with a tall face glued to its front. When the machine screws are tightened, the long piece is pinched against the miter gauge.

To make the fence, start by lipping a piece of'/«"-thick stock ll/t" wide. Then cut a ■/■/ rabbet in one edge exactly half the thickness of the piece (Vs™) (Fig. I)-

Now cut a (T-long piece from one end. This is the top piece that will be screwed to the miter gauge. The long piece will form the bottom of the fence. To create the pinching action, sand or plane V»" off the rabbeted face of the top piece <Fig. '¿a).

Next, install tiircadcd inserts in the top piece so they align with the holes in the miter gauge ¿ice (Fig. 2).

Now. to form a U-shaped channel, glue a 2"-w ide front face to the front edge oi the long rabbeted piece (but not to the short piece) (Fig. 2).

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CONSTRUCTION

To build the Saw Cabinet, I started by culting the back (A) and the ilour blank (li) front '/," plywood (Fig. 1). I cut both pieccs IS'/a" wide by 23" long (btrge enough to store lfl"-dia. saw-blades side by side).

top and bottom. The door and the back are joined togetherwith the lop and bottom (C. I)), ('ut butJi of these pieces to the same leuglh as the back and -I'/e" wide (Fig. 1).

Note: 'l"he width will accommodate mi isl saw fences, but you can chai igc the width to fit your fence.

After the lop and bottom are cur to size, drill shank holes through the back piece and pilot holes into Ihe top and bottom. 'Jhen screw the top and bottom to the hack piece (Fig. 1).

end piece. To mount the door, an end

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(li) is eul to lit between the top and bottom picas (Fig. 2). To provide more holding power (or the hinge screws. 1 cut this piece fromthick hardwood (nut plywood).

'Hie width of this piece has ro allow ibr the hinge that's attached later. So measure the width of die bottom (4'/:'") and subtract the thickness oi the hinge. Alter the end is cut to size, screw it between the top and bottom.

door blank. liefore the door can he mounted, the donr blank is ripped into two pieces. One piece becomes die door, llie other piece is screwed to the lop lo complete the channel for the rip fence (Fig. 2). Kip the top piece 3S/T wide (Fig. :!(>). When ihe door is mounted to the case later, the saw kerf provides clear-<uice lor the duor to open.

blade holders. Reforc installing the d<x>r. I drilled two VL"-dia. holes for dowels that hold the blades inside Ihe cabinet (Fig. tit). These holes are angled to keep blades from falling olf.

mount door. When you're ready to mount the door to the cabinet, cut a piano hinge the same length as ihe door. Then screw Ihe hinge to the dooi! (Fig. 2). Next screw llie other flap of the hinge to the end (E). Finally, to help keep the door closed, add a magnetic catch under the top (C) (Fig. V-

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MITER GAUGE HOLDER

One of the most awkward diings lo store-is a miter gauge — especially when ir has a long auxiliary fence attached lo il. Storing it becomes even more of a problem if you want easy and quick access when you need ir.

One solution is this simple quick-access miter gauge holder (K) that mounts lu lite front of Ihe cabinet duor. It's just a bracket with a tapered notch. f A I cut mine from a scrap piece of "2 by" slock that was 8" long (Fig. 8). Then. I ripped it to a width of 2".

Next, lay out die tapered notch and cut. it out with a jig saw or on a band saw. Also, drill two countersunk shank holes through ihe thickest portion of the holder. Before mounting ihe holder, ease the sharp edges with sandpaper.

When mounting the holder lo Ihe door, center ir on the door's length so an auxiliary fence won't slick pasl ihe ironl of the cahi net. Also, tilt it at a slight angle to keep the nuler gauge frum sliding off the front (open) end.

MOUNTING

With the cabinet complete, all that's left is lo mount il to ihe saw.

As you portion Ihe cabinet, make sure von leave enough ttx>m below ihe wing lo allow you lo place ihe rip fence in the channel (Fig. in).

II Ihe angle ol the legs on your table saw interferes with mounting the cabinet. add a couple oi spacer blocks (G)

1 -y. between the cabinei and the saw. Counlerbore holes in Ihe blocks. ;uid use carriage holrs to fasren them to the side of ihe saw '.Fig..'»). Now just screw the cabinet to rhe blocks and start organizing your accessories. h

ACCESSORY TRAY

This optional accessory iray provides a place to put smaller accessories. It consists of a hardboad from (II) and back <0. and a:V> hardwood bottom (J) that are glued to two Iray ends (Kj cut from '/«"-thick liard-wood (see drawing).

The back is taller than the ironl to allow you to screw the tray flush with the lop edge of the Saw Cab ¡net (see drawings).

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Responses

  • sabine
    How to make adjustble mitre fence?
    9 months ago

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