Cutting 16 identical corner pieces for the Revolving Parts Bin would be next to impossible without a jig to help you. This simple sled carries the piece pasl (lie blade, making it easy to form the lliu angle on one corner.

base. The base is just a 6"-wide piece if hard board with two narrow strips attached to form a 90" corner. Start by nitting ihe base lo size. Then rip a couple 1" wide hardboard strips that will be used to form ihe "cradle.*

layout. Next, use a combination square to draw a layout line on the has«' at a 45® angle to one edge- (see drawing). jlue one of the luirdboard strips to the - ase, aligned with this mark, 'l itis is the Irs I side of Uie cradle.

Once the glue is dry. use a square lo position llie second strip at a SO'- angieto the first (see drawing).

cut blanks. To make the corner >eces,ait If, square blanks CJ:/i"x3:/j"). :'ou can check Iheir size by dry-assem-: ngthe center and side bollom pieces

(D. li) hi the frame. Hie edges of the corner bottoms (F) should align with ihe edges of ihe side and center pieces (refer to Fig. .ifi ahove).

cut the angles. To use the jig, one side of the sled rides against the rip fence as ll le jig carries the corner piece post the saw blade (see drawing).

Setting the corner pieces in the sled automatically positions them so they're

•iíi" to the saw blade. But you still need to adjusi the rip fence lo end up with two 1"-wide "ears" (see detail "a").

What works well here is to start by taking an extra-wide cut. Tnen reposition the fence closer to the blade and sneak up on the final width of cut. (Youll be trimming the sled at the same time, but don't worry about litis.) Once the fence is set, ait the corner pieces.

Building Drawers With Kreg Jig


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Al this point. the compartments have taken shape. To keep hardware from spilling out. each tier is "wrapped" with wood facing strips <Fig. i).

These strips are Vi" thick pieces of hard maple that are mitcrcd on the ends where they come together. To fit over lite bottom pieces, there's a groove on Use inside faee of each strip.

Here again, it's easiest to cut these grooves before making the individual strips. So star I by ripping about 18 liuear feet of 'A'-thick stock to width. This provides enough material for all the facing strips and a bit extra for making a Couple of lest pieces.

Now just cut the grooves to fit the boltomsFigs. >« uud jcy. Before culling the facing strips to length. 1 softened the sharp corners on the outside by routing roundovers on the lop and bottom edges (Fig. ih).

MITERS. At this point, you're ready to cut the miters on the ends of each of warn Trip 'J

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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