For Leveiere


To compensate for an uneven fluor, I added five levelers to the base. 15ut these aren't just any levelers. Tlieir unique design allows each outside corner ol the base to be leveled independently.

Kaeh leveler consists of two parts: a thick mounting block that attaches to the bottom of the base and an adjustable foot (Fig.5). By turning a bolt that passes through the center of each part, you can mise or lower the foot (see Shop Tip at left).

mounting block. Hie weight of the MIM-' combined with a load of tools, means the completed project will be rather heavy, 'lb provide plenty of strength for lifting this weight, each mounting block (11) is made by jduiug up two pieces of •Yt'-thiek hardwwxi (Fig. $). 0 used maple.)

Before gluing and screwing the mounting block to the bottom of the base, you'll need to drillacounterbored shank hole for aTuut that accepts the adjustment bolt (Fig. -r>a). TheT-nut is simply screwed in place.

FOOT. Once the block is in place. yová| can add the foot (I). It's a piece of W^»' thick hardwood that's captured on the end of the bolt by a pair of lock nuts.

One nut rests in a coimterbored sluuik hole d rilled in the bottom of the toot.'I "he other lightens againsl lite top of the fool ro lock it in place.

Note: When threading the bolt into the foot, make sure it doesn't extend pasl the bollom face of the foot.


The base of the tool carousel provides plenty of storage lor portable power lools. To make ¡I e;isy to remove a tool (or put one back) without having to reach deep inside the base. I added a turntable (Fig. 6). This lets you bring to the front whatever you need.

'Ihc turntable is nothing more than a circular shelf that spins around on the rolk-r bearings. An iron pipe ac1s as an axle that keeps the Turntable centered in the base (refer lo Fig. 10 on page 97).

blank. As with the base sides, top, and bollom. lite turntable starts out as<u large, square blank of MDF (Fig. Using a square blank provides stniight reference edges for laving out and culling a notch that malches the shape of the opening in the base. To cut litis notch. I

Dovetail Layout Tools



Kt>r« two rtrírs or vi- thcx stock. foot ft *<- iiiicx mounting li lock.


Fit rrr-Mrr.M scriw

;4-xiv/ ?fnofr v/ashlk hfflai wasiiik

"'block'" foot

NOTE drill "ti' dia cíktlrld i clc ro« pwot pin cr< ono.r cutpng itó. thfn fmarcir IIUCL IO 1V4"-0UV

second: cui turntabi r to shap?

NOTE drill "ti' dia cíktlrld i clc ro« pwot pin cr< ono.r cutpng itó. thfn fmarcir IIUCL IO 1V4"-0UV

second: cui turntabi r to shap?

(used a straightedge to guide my circular saw. Slop the cut just short of the inside corner, then finish up with a hand saw.

cut to shape. Once the notch is done, you're ready to cut lite turntable 0) to its final shape. An easy way to do this is to mouut a router with a straight bit to a simple cirde-ei ming jig. (For details abi mt making litis jig. refer to the box below.)

To use the jig, yoiiH need ro drill a small, centered hole in the turntable for a boll that acts as a pivot pin. This hole needs to he enlarged St» the iron pipe can slick through. But trying to center a bit in a hole can be difficult. So I plugged a short piece of dowel in the hole to give the bit something lo "bile" Lulo. I drilled this final hole slightly larger than the outside diameter of the pipe to prevent wear on the turntable.

strike plates. Another place that could wear is along die edge of die notch in the turntable where it rides up on the n easy way lo cut the large circular workpieces on the Revolving Tool Station is lo use a router that's mounted toa simple jig (see drawing).

base. The jig is just a hard board base that pivots on a boh. The length of the base isn't critical, but it needs to be long enough to hold you r router and men so re at leasl W from the bil to the pivot boll. (The turntable has a 15" radius, but the carousel added later on lop of die tool station has a radius of 20". Refer to Fig. 12 on page 98.)

pivot bolt. A bolt passes through the base and into a centered hole drilled in the workpiccc. To determine the location of the hole in the base, you'll need lo know ihc radius of the workpiccc. Hie hole is drilled that same distance away from the inxidc edge of a straight bit (see details "a" and "h"). To cul a different size circle, just drill a new hole in the base.

set up. Before routing the circle, il's a good idea to cut the workpiece to rough size first. I used a jig saw and tried lo slay within !/ih" of the line, '["his way. there's not as much material lo remove as you rout it to final size.

Then set Ihe blank on a couple of pieces of scrap lo raise it off the work surface. Tliis will provide clearance for

Wood Shop Power Tools

roller bearings. To prevent this from excessive wear, I added a metal strike plate lo each notch.

"Ihese strike plates are simple —just short pieces of aluminum angle, They the pivot bolt and the router bit (see details "a'and 1)").

rout. As you rout, move the jig counter-eloekwiseanjuml ihe workpiece.

turntable. A spin of Cite tumtabk; in The bate of the Revolving Tool Station provides quick and cusy ¿cceii to your portable povrer too!<;

fit in shallow mortise» cut in both the fronl edge and bultom of the turntable (Fig. 7). After laving out the location of the mortises, jusl remove die waste material with a chisel.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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