Get thirtytwo compartments in just over a square foot of bench space with easy access to everything A lazy Susan lets you spin the bin To get to the parts you need

One ni the things thai fascinated me as a kid was the circular nail bin at the local hardware store. I couldn't resist spiiuiing ihe metal shelves and watching the piles oi nails «y by like a merry no round.

That same basic idea is what's behind this Revolving Parts Bin. four separate tiers (with eight compartments each) help organize small parts and pieces oi hardware, rius. there are three different sizes of compartments to hold hardware pieces of various sizes.

LAZY SUSAN. The bin rotates on a lazy Susan bearing. This is a great space saver, as it lets you put the bin close to the wall and still have access to everything in it. If you've never installed a lazy Susan before, don't worry. A few screws are all it lakes lo fasleu il lo the bin.

PLYWOOD. Although a bin with llus many compartments might seem a bit complicated lo build, dial's really not the case. A sturdy frame made from VL>" plywood (I used liai lie birch) serves as a "backbone* that ru ns all die way through the parts bin. Then hardboard bottom pieces are added to establish the individual comparlmenls. Aud to keep ihe contents from spilling out thin hardwood strips are allached to ihe fronts.

ANGUS. Ihe aiangular comparunenls on lite corners inlroduoe some additional angles, Cutting the angles accurately 0:1 ihe pieces thai form the bottoms of the compartments is automatic with a simple jig.

ITien when it's lime lo miter die facing strips that wraparound the bin, a few test cuts (and some patience) will pay off with a nice, tight fit.

LABELS. With all ihose slorage spaces it would he easy to forget exactly what is stored where. To help keep things srraighr, I added a label holder in fronl of each compartment. If the contents of a bin change, the label can be changed easily as well.


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The coro oí the frame is an U-shaped assembly with two "winjis" sticking out on each side i Fig. /W.Thiss frame defines eight columns. To divide each of These columns into four compartments, grooves are cut in each side of the frame pieces to accept hardbuard bottom pieces (refer to Fig. if).

GROOVES. To get these gr ooves to align, it's best to cut them before cutting die ¡»dividual frame pieces to size. Start with a picce of plywood the same width (height) as the frame (167/s") (Fig. 2). And to allow "extra" for the saw kerfs when cutting the frame pieces to size. I cut it to a rough length oí '13".

Ni iw it's simply a matter of forming die grooves on both sides of the plywood 'Fifj. ¡a). The grooves are just slialknv kerfs cut with the table saw.

Note: In most casfts, hardboard will fit the width ofasawkerf. But before cutting the grooves in The plywood blank, make a cut in a scrap piece to Test, the lit.

To make «ire the grooves line up on opposite faces, position the rip fence to cut the Cist groove. After making the cut on one face of the panel, llip the panel end-tor end and cut a matching groove on the opposite face. Then you can adjust the fence for the next groove and repeat the process.

CUT PIECES. Once the grooves are complete, cut the two side panels (A), a cenier divider (IÍ). and the four wings <C) to final length (Fig. 2).

Note: The length is the measurement running /nitJi the graiu. So all the frame pieces are wider (H%") than they are long.

At lliis point, the parts bin frame is ready to he assembled. To make it easy to jGl wood fronts on the bin later, llie idea is to make one side of the frame a mirror image of the other.

To no this. I started by gluing and nailing two wings to each side panel. And to make the job easier, 1 used a Irick that will make sure the wings are positioned properly (see the Shop Tip al right). Another thing to consider, it's also important dial the wings are square lo the face Of the side panels.

0::ce the wings arc securely fastened to the sice panels, giue and nail these ;-.vo assemblies to the cenier divider.

Vou could use 3 ruler to measure ar.d moik the location of each wing, hut that inlio duces severe: chances for errors

Uiing a ?p?.-rpr solve» that problem. Simply clamp it flush v.'ilh the erfqp of the üde panel. Then press the -.ving against it.

A piece of scrap under the opposite end of The sidp panel wiil provide a stable and level surface while (Swing the nails.

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.he cenlei divkler should he centered - tactly along the lengths of the side panels (Fig. lb).

bottom pieces. Willi the ports bin -¡nne complete, you're ready to add the bollom pieces (Figs. S <r wl Ha). Each tier has three differenl size bottoms, and each are made from W nrdboard: two large center bottoms, two smaller side bollotus. ai id four corner "»ttom pieces (Fig. -i).

Culling the rectangular bottom pieces (l)and 1-.') is fairly straightforward (Fig. Sa). They're cut to fit between the grooves and allow a '/»" overhang at Ihe front. {This overhang fits into a groove in the lacing strips that are added later.)

angled cuts. But making ihe .nigledaitson the small corner pieces (10 is a bil trickier. To do Uiis safely. I used a simple sled that carries the pieces through the saw blade al a 4b' angle (see the Shop Jig below).

After culling all Ihe bollom pieces, it's simply a matter of gluing them Ughlly inlollie grooves ait in the frame. I glued in all of the side and center "icccs first. theu finished up with the corner pieces.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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