Nylon Sleeves

10 iridke il easy to slip hit«; in and out. nylon sleeves fit into holes drilled iri each shelf. When rhe- humidity changes, the wood can't swell arid "lock" the bits in place.

DRAWER

After completing ih«; case. I added a small drawer that slides into the bottom opening of the ease (FtfJ.This makes handy place to store larger bits, wrenches, and other accessories.

box joints. The drawer is made up of a front and back (K) and two sides (Fj with box joints at each corner (Fig.:(). But since the drawer pieces are cut from V,"-thick slock, die box joints will be WxW (Fig..in).

drawer pieces. To find the height (widdi) of all the drawer pieces, measure rhe height uf the opening (2'•/:•"). Normally, at this point I would siihtrael Vi\? for clearance. Rut this would mess up opening with a jig saw. then sanding up to the line with a drum sander.

Once this notch is cut out. box joints can be cut to join the drawer pieces together (Fig. So).

BOTTOM. 'I"he next step is to cut a groove in each drawer piece lor a Vin-thick bottom (G) (Figtt.ZaitdMi). Here again, you'll need to plug holes after you've glued up the: drawer.

TEST FIT. After filling llie holes, lest the Gt of the drawer in the case. If necessary. sanrl the top or bollutu edges of the drawer lu achieve a lit that's snug but still slides in and out easily.

the '/iT spacing for the box joints. So instead. 1 cut the pieces to full height (2'/s") and then sanded the drawer to fir die opening after it was assembled.

'Hie length of die front and back (E) pieces equals the width of the drawer opening, less Vic" for clearance {¿>IH/is") (Fig. S). And since I wanted the drawer to be flush with the case front, the sides (F) are cut to match the depth of the opening notch. To make a simple "handle" for the drawer, I cut a centered notch in the lop edge of ihe drawer front (Figs. .1 and 3a). I did rnis by roughing out die

NOTE:

front. uacx, mio

îidf' aif nitfrcat yr-uik.k siock

ORAWF3 RfAT

ii-xii-box joint

- cut no"ch (ok i ian ull clffv-0 uy (ifttove f2r bottom - - "

Vi- PlYVA^O

ii-xii-box joint

ORAWF3 RfAT

- cut no"ch (ok i ian ull clffv-0 uy (ifttove f2r bottom - - "

NOTE:

front. uacx, mio

îidf' aif nitfrcat yr-uik.k siock

Vi- PlYVA^O

wfr sors •utihily and u uf in pi act

PLWVOOD

EWCK

shop TIP Hiding Groovee

Invisible fix. The end-grain plug matches (be end grain of thp "finger" almost perfectly. Ihe patch will be prac tically invisible.

Plug the hole. Start by cutting an extra-long square plug to fit ihe hole, lixm taper the sides slight!*/ to ger a snog fit and glue thep'ug in place.

p vwtxio

SACK

Trim the plug. After the glue has dried, use a chisel to pare off excess by working around the plug towards the center. Then sand it smooth.

DOOR

With the drawer complete, the next thing is to add a dour to keep your router bits irce from dust and dirt. The door is just a hardwood frame thai Gts around a ply wood panel (Fig. A).

frame pieces. All the fmme piecesïire Cut from W'-dikk stock and arc the same width (l'/i"). 'lhe only difference is their length. The stiles (10 arc 13" long, and the rails (1) arc long.

stub tenon and groove. The frame (and panel) is held together with a simple joint <i stub tenon and groove.The first step when making this joint is to cul a s/«"-deep groove centered iu each piece (Fig. .Je). This groove accepts a '/T plywood panel CD. It also serves as the mortise lor the short (stub) tenons cut on the ends of the rails (Fig*, i a ltd .{«;. When cutting the lenons. flip the rail between passes so you make cuts on opposite (aces and sneak up on the tenons final thickness. Ibis automatically centers the tenon on the rail's thickness.

ASSEMBLY. After the stub tenons are cut, the door can be glued and damped up. When the glue is dry, you can mount the door on die case. It attaches to one side with a pair of hinges (Fig. S).

Note: The hinge mortises arc cut in ihe case to match the thickness of one hinge flap. This leaves about Vic" clearance between die door and the case for a magnetic catch that's added next.

catch. With the door iu place, the next step is to add a knob and a magnetic catch (Fig. 5«J. To keep the gap between the d<x>r and case to a minimum. I used a \"o. 4 x %" flalliead wood-screw instead ol Ihc thick strike plate lhat came with the catch (Fig. Su). Il sdll provides plenty of "pull" and can be adjusted ir. or out easily.

hanging system. Finally, to mount | the case to a wall. I used a unique iwo-^-pteee system (Fig. ah). A cabinet cleat 00 is glued to die back of the case. And a wall cleat (1.) is screwed to the wall. The mating edges are beveled al 45®. The advantage of this system is it allows yoi i to lift off the cabinet and take il wherever you need it in the shop. ■

note:

MCRUSE ?Cfi HINGE IS O/r "0 M.vro < 1> I CKALSS OF ONE HINGFF.AP

note:

MCRUSE ?Cfi HINGE IS O/r "0 M.vro < 1> I CKALSS OF ONE HINGFF.AP

Portable Hinge Saw Horses

WALL aiAl 0i*-THICK i-OCK-

V OIA WACAFTir CAICH

WALL aiAl 0i*-THICK i-OCK-

V OIA WACAFTir CAICH

cm-. MT atAr scrw/.'AU CLEAT AT fxsked LOCATON

CilllF CARINFT

CLLAI IO eaoc ce cast note:

CUt 45' ErVFIS 0>J

CLCAI

UHYWALL

Hinged Table Saw Caster

STILE

note

STILE

Corner Halving Joint With Dowel

MATERIALS LIST

Was this article helpful?

0 0
The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing

The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing

Wood finishing can be tricky and after spending hours on building your project you want to be sure that you get the best outcome possible. In The Complete Guide To Wood Finishing you will learn how to get beautiful, professional results no matter what your project is, even if you have never tried your hand at wood finishing before. You will learn about every step in the wood finishing process from a professional wood finisher with years of experience.

Get My Free Ebook


Post a comment