SKM IrOP False Front

Tedswoodworking Plans

Ted's Woodworking Plans

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To align a false drawer front, i use double-sic'od carpet tape. A straiqhteriqp se: ocross the legs helps portion the false front so there's a uniform qap when the frame is jddc-d to the top loter.

CASE

With the base of the cabinet complete, it's time to bui'.d the case. The case is simply a square plywood box joined with rabbets. The main requirement was lliat it be big enough for hand-held power tools— especially a circular saw.

To build the ease, begin by cutting the case sides (3D mid lop;indbullom (I) to finished length and width (Fig. 9). (I made it easy on myself they're all the same size.) Then rip a divider (J) to width. I left this piece a bit long; it will he cut to fit lite case after assembly.

ADD EDGING. To hide the edges of the plywood, rip five pieces of edge liitn (K) to match the thickness of the plywood. Then glue the trim lo the front of each piece of plywood (Fig. na).

cut rabbets. Tlie case is held together with rabbet joints. To hold the hack (I.),lent rabbets in the back edges of all the case pieces except lite divider (Fig. 9b).To hold the top and bottom, I cut rabbets in lite sides (ID (Fig. 9c).

DRILL HOLES. I wanted to add adjustable shelves on both sides of the divider. So before assembly, 1 laid out and drilled holes for shelf pins in each side of the divider and the inside face of each side (Fig. toJ.

Mote: The shelves on the left side are narrower (shallower) than those on the right. Also, the holes on each side of the divider are offset so they won't run into each other.

ASSEMBLE CASE. Now it's time to assemble the case. First, glue and nail the sides to the top and honom (Fig. 11). Then ait a back (L) lo Gl into ihe rabbels.

Note: I used Va" plvw<x>d for the ease back. This adds support to the case and holds it square. It's also heavy enough

CASL

SIDF

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Kitchen Islands Building Plans

kote: au. case pa=rts. exce»t eogws are v fcavsoo

CASL

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kote: au. case pa=rts. exce»t eogws are v fcavsoo that it lets me securely mount tool hangers lo the back of ihe case.

When Ihe back of the case has been glued and nailed ui place, the divider can be cut to lit between the top and bottom.

Note: I simply screwed the divider lo ihe top. bottom, and back. It could be set in dadoes. Rut the divider isn't as wide (deep) as the case, so any dadoes would have to be stopped short of the front edges.

To position the divider in the case, I used a little trick First, lip ihe case on ils side (Fig. !!). Then cut. four spacers to hold die divider parallel to the sides while you glue iuid screw il lo ihe lop. bottom, and back of the case.

SHELVES

The shelves are a little different lhan you'd find in most cabinets. They don'l just rest on shelf pins. Instead, the shelves have a groove cut in each side, so they slide around the pins (Fig. 120).

Tlie shelves are srill adjustable, but the grooves hold ihem in place better than if they were just sitting on pins.

notc: placl cail on sol tc. attach omr.fr

notc: placl cail on sol tc. attach omr.fr

• Bui even thuugh I wanted adjustable helves, 1 didn't want them to look adjustable. iv> I eut the grooves before adding the edge trim to the shelves. Tliis way, the trim covers the plywood and also hides die grooves.

CUT TO SIZE. To begin, cut the shelves (M, N) to fit inside the case with a Vfe" gap at each side (Fig. W). Next, cut a Vi" groove along boUi edges of each shelf to mateh the '/T-dia. dowel shelf pins.

To do this. I adjusted the fence so the blade was slightly oil-center on the edge of the piece (Fig. 12a). Then, after the first pass. 1 flipped the board arouud and made a second pass. If the fir over a '/(" dowel is still a bit tight, adjust the fence and make two more passers.

When the grooves were cut. I added some edge trim (K) to the fronts of the shelves (Fig. 12). Theu to position the shelves, I inserted •''/»"-long dowels into the holes and slid die shelves in place.

ASSEMBLY

Before adding the doors. I anaeberl the ease to the base. The link between these Ainils is a inhered frame. And for a rleco-Wrative touch, I added a similar frame lo the lop ol ihe case.

CUT FRAMES. To make ihe frames, rip three front and back pieces (()) and four sides (1*) lo width (Fig. 1$). (There's no back to the frame at ihe top of the case.)

Now miter die frame pieces to length. 'Hie front and back pieces are I" longer than the width of the base. And the sides are V:" longer than the depth of the base. (They're flush with il ie back of the base.)

SPLINED MITERS. 1 added Ihe base frame first (Fig. !■'■). Here, I wanted to make sure the miters were plenty strong. So I used splines (Q) to add strength.

Now. the base frame can be glued together. When it's dry. soften the front and side edges wilh a W romidover bit.

ADD BASE FRAME, 'Ihe frame is held dowu lo the base and up to the case with countersunk screws (Fig. IS).

When all the shank holes are drilled, set die frame in place so the back edge is flush with the base and centered side lo side (Fig. IS). Now mark and drill pilot holes and screw the frame to die base.

Then you can do the same to screw the case to the frame. (Screw die case only to die front and back pieces of the frame.)

add case frame. Hie frame on top of the case is a bit different from the base frame. First, il doesn't have a back, just a front and two sides (Fig. J.Sj.Also. these milers didu't have to he as strong, so 1 didn't use splines. 1 simply glued and screwed the top frame to the case.

note:

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SHELF

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Plate Shelf Plans

note

AT BACK

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TO? FRAME OVERHANGS HWNI O' CAW US'

FP.AM? SIDL

CASE OUTLAi

INNER DOORS

Before tonkin« ihe outer doors, I added a smaller inner door to the left side ol the case. This door isn't for covering any-thing. Instead, it swings out tu provide additional spaee for hanging hand tools.

cut to size. Slarl by cutting tlie inner door (0) to size (Fig. 15).

Note: It's smaller than the case opening, so there's plenty of room to reach in and pull il open.

Next, glue a strip ol edge trim (K) to the outside edge of the inner door (Fig. 15). Then to soften Ihe edges of the trim, I rounded them over with a Vr" roundoverbit (Fig. 15b).

add hinge plate. 'Ihe door swings on a piano hinge. Cut the hinge isn't screwed directly to the door. Instead, I made a wide hinge plate (S) and glued the door inlo a groove centered on this plate (Figs. )5 mul l.vi). Tills way, llie door can be held closed with a barrcl-srvle magnetic catch without interfering with the pizjio hinge.

mount door. With the hinge plate glued iu place, hang the door with the piano hinge (Fig. 15b). Next, drill a pilot hole in the divider and add the magnetic catch. Then screw the strike plate to tlie hinge plate-

OUTER DOORS

The outer doors are all that's left. These are frame and panel doors built with stub tenon and groove joints.

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WNFft DOOR PLYWOOD?

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cut rails and stiles. Tlie first step is lo cut tlie door rails f 1"J and stiles (Ü) to size (Fig. Hi). (Allow for a Vid' gap at the lop and bottom of the case and also between the doors.)

Next. cul a vW'-deep groove centered on the inside edge of each piece of the door frame (Fig. 16a). Then, cul mating tongues on both ends of each rail.

add panel. At this point, you can measure lor the panel. So dry-assemble each frame and cul a plywood panel (V)

DOOR PAKLL (V-THC< STOCK

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to ill (Fig. Hi). (Add %* lo all sides of ihe panel for tongues thai will fit Ihe gr<x >vcs.)

cut tongues. The tongues on thfA door panels are a bit odd. I wanteds to add a decorative groove to the front of ihe door. To do this, the rabbels in front are wirier than those in hack. I did this in Iwo steps.

First, I eutsA" rabbets on both faces of each panel (Fig. 16b). Then I trimmed an extra V\fi* from the front face only. (l>oing il this way reduces the tendency for chipout on the front face.)

Now. die doors can be assembled, and the pulls added (Fig. IS).

mount doors. Mount the doors with piano hinges. Then, finally, to hold the doors closed. I added a pair of barrel-style magnetic catches to the top and bottom of the case behind each door (Fig. 17).

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