This cabinet isnt just some framed pegboard hung on the wall lis secret is revealed as you open the doors and find plenty of hidden room to hang tools and accessories

hen I first showed this rack to a friend of mine, his uiitial reaction was short and sweet, "Looks nice." But then I swung open the outer door to reveal two more pegboard panels inside. Ills eyebrows rose a bit. Then, when I swung the rear door open to reveal a fourth pegboard panel, plus storage on the wall behind the rack, he finally said, "WnwT

.•Ml told, there is almost 22 square feet of pegboard and wall storage spa« in this wall-mounted rack. And best of all, it takes up less than seven square feet on the shop wall.

DOORS. 'l"he doors are just simple wood frames (1 made mine with sturdy Douglas fir) with pegboard panels screwed in place on each side. They pivot on a pair of bolls at the lop and bottom corners. To allow access to both sides, the doors swing out in opposite directions (see the photos below). And to keep the iloors closed. I've mounted a spring catch to the top of each wood door frame.

materials. You should beablelo pick up all the materials you need at the local lumberyard. The frame is made from "Iwooy" material. A 3AT-lhick plywood top and bottom help brace the frame so it will support a load ol tools hung on the doors. And a full sheet of pegboard pro vides ihc door panels.

Finally, the pegboard allows you to easily rearrange the hooks and tool holders to where you need them.

Closed Door Pegboard

EXPLODED VIEW

OVtRAIl DIMENSIONS: 24W x 10V(D x 41 VtH

OVtRAIl DIMENSIONS: 24W x 10V(D x 41 VtH

© UPRIGHT

Framed Pegboard

© UPRIGHT

FRO>JT I'AL

MATERIALS LIST

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CUTTING DIAGRAM

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FRAME

I started construction of the pegbuard storage »nit bv cutting the picccs for the U-shaped frame thai supports the rwo swinging doors.

FRAME. This sturdy frame is made from "rwo-bv" material thal's been ripped to a width of 2". <[ used Douglas fir.) AW-thick plywood lop and bottom provide extra strength to support the doors (Fig. ¿J.Thelhuue isln-ltl together with simple (yet strong) lap joints.'litis joint is easy lo make with a dado blade in the table saw by cutting a series of notches in (lie frame pieces.

The first picces to make are a p;iir of slrelchers (A) used to attach the rack to the wall. Once they are ripped lo width {2") and «it to length (21"). the stretchers are rabbeted ou each end to leave s/i"-thick tongues (Fig. i).

Next, cut two uprights (B) to a finished length of 41%*. Then. lo accept the tongues ou the stretchers, dadoes are cut in the back edge of the Lwo uprights (B). These dadoes arc S'/j" from each end of the upright (Fi ji. '¿)-

Another pair of 2'-wide dadoes are eul ou llie inside face of each upright ro accept a pair of short arms (C) (Fign. 1 a/id 2). Then ihe doors are attached to these arms later.

Once the dadoes are cut in the uprights, all lour of the arms are rabbeted on one end to leave a •'W-thick tongue (Fig. 2).

Before assembling The- frame, it's easiest lo drill a W-dia hole in each arm for a pin that will allow the doors to pivot 'Fig. 3). Note thai Ihe holes are located toward the front of the Iclt arms, and to the rear of the right arms. I used the drill press to make sure the holes were straight up aud down.

After the holes are drilled, a shallow groove is cut ill each arm to accept rhe W-thick plywood top and bollom added later. These grooves are centered on the inside taccs of the arms, opposite lite rab bets ait earlier.

ASSEMBLY. Now lhai all ihe joinery is cut, you can assemble the frame. The slrelchere, uprights, and arms are held together with glue and screws.

To add rigidity to the frame, llie plywood top and bottom (D) are cut to lit between ihe grooves iu the arms. But before gluing and screwing them in place. I added hardwood trim strips (E) to cover their front edges (Fig. 1).

UPRIGHT

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g DOORS

Willi the frame complete. you «m start working on the two doors. They're just simple wood frames that are rabbeted on botli skies to accept the W pegboard panels <Fig. i).

Hie overall height of the doors is the same. But the baek door is 1" narrower so it swings vast the front door when you open it (Fig. id).

Determining the length of the frame pieces is easy. 'Ihe stiles (F) on each door are identical in length. They are cut lo provide W clearance at both the top and the bottom. (Mine were 36" long.) but the Iront rails (Q are 1" longer than the back rails (H). (This lakes into account (lie overall width of the doors and the joinery that holds them together.)

With the frame pieccrs cut to length, matching rabbets are cul 011 both sides to hold the pegboard panels (Fig. $jt). And notches hi the ends of the sliles accept the rails (Fig. ib).

Once the frames were assembled. I

•eased the edges by routing VW' chamfers ground the frames (Fi'j. >y.

panels. After screwing the frame pieces together, it's just a mailer oiculting Iront (1) and back door panels (I) to fit between the nrihlielS-

Note: Cul ihe pcyboard so the holes are Vj" from the outside edge (Fig. ¿c).

Xexl. a scrap pull (K) is glued lo the front of the back door.'Hie pull is just a W x 5' piece, cul from W thick stock.

ATTACH DOORS. All that's left is to attach Ihe doors. They pivot on I wo hex bolts tha: pass into bronze bushings installed in the top ami bottom edges of each door (I-'igx. ii and Jo).These bolts pass through holes in the arms (drilled earlier) and thread into T-nuts in Ihe inside faces of the arms.

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Finally, to kick the doors in place, a Note: One catch mounts to ihe back hole is drilled in each upper arm for a of the front door.'ITie other is on the front spring-loaded catch (Fig. 0). of die back door (Fig..}). ■

back mail

FKO.VT RAIl

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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