This compact router table has a large top with wings that fold away making it compact and easy to store The multipurpose fence doubles as a sturdy handle

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Folding Router Table Plans

Let's iace it. Not every shop luis room for a large, stationary router table. That's the reason 1 like this Benchtop Router Table.

Instead of taking up valuable floor space, the router table simply clamps to a bench. And once a job is completed, it folds up into a compact box that's stored neatly out ol the way (sec inset photo).

With the router table folded up. it's only about as big as a picnic basket. But don't let its small size fuol yuu.

LARGE TABLE. The "wings" on each side of the router table fold out tocreale a large, flat table. To provide support for the wings, just open tile doors and swing them underneath. The doors "click" into a shop-made catch with a reassuring sound.

FENCE. As much as I like the table, it's the fence that impresses me the most. It adjusls easily and locks down tight. And a pair of sliding faces ler you change the size of the opening around the bit 'llic fence even doubles as a handle to make it easy to carry the router table.

ALUMINUM TRACK. Another handy thing about this router table is that it has an aluminum track that runs along the front edge. Actually, it's Iwo tracks in one. One part acts as a smooth, amnxite slot fora miter gauge. The oilier lets you attach a featherboard.

ANOTHER VERSION. If you want a less expensive version of this router table, take a look al the Designer's Notebook f j on page 59.11 uses die same basic design as the deluxe version, but I lel'l out the aluminum track system and a few other options to keep the cost down.



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1 began work nn the router lablc by making the ease. In addition to housing the router, the case provides a sturdy mounting platform fur the table.

Note: De-ponding nn your router, you may need to modify the height of the case. Just be sure it's tall enough thai you can adjust the height of Ihe bit without having the router contact the bottom of the case.

u-$haped assembly, ihe case starts out as a U-shaped assembly that consists of two sides <iud a back f Fig. J), Kach side is glued up from nvo awtsitr. jx'eces of1// plywood. (I used Baldc birch.)

After trimming the sides (A) to fund size, youH need lo rabbet ihe back, inside edge ol each one to accept the back (H) (Fig. fit). Tlie back is a piece of Vf plywood lhat's glued and screwcd to the sides.

bottom. The next step is to add a plywood bottom ((.') (Fig. S). Tlie bottom is sized to extend an equal amount past the skies and front o: the ease. (It's flush al lite bock.) 'Hirs pmvidesseventl clamping surfaces that allow you to secure the router lablc to a workbench.

doors. After attaching the bottom with glue and screws. I added a pair of doors (D) (Fig. 2). IJcsidcs enclosing the Iront of the case, the doors have another (more important) job. When you swing Ihe doors open, they hold up ihe "wings" of the router table.

To create a continuous, fiat surface, the wings work best when supported at the exact same height as the center part of the table. 11 i is center pari rests on the sides (A) and back (I',) of the case. So making the doors ihe same height (width) as these pieces will prevent the wings Irom sagging.

Of course, this means that the doors will fir quite tightly in the opening when Ihe lop is added later. But that's okay. In fact, the goal is to size ihe doors so they'll jusl barely scrape against the lop and bottom.

To do this. I made both doors from a single blank of Vfe" plywood (Fig. 2). As 1 mentioned, ihe plywood is ripped to width lo match the height of the sides. And it's cut to length lo match the distance of ihe case from one oulside face to the other.

finger recesses. Before crossculling ihe blank into two equal pieces lo make the doors, il's best lo drill a hole for ihe finger recesses. This is jusl a manor of drilling a centered hole in ihe plywuod blank before making the crosscut (the kerf from this cut leaves a '/<" gap between the doors).

install doors. All that's left to com plete the case is to install Ihe doors.

"lliey're held in place with a pair of continuous (piano) hinges (Fig. 2a). One-thing to be aware of here is that the . _ hinges are located '/«" ftth/v: Ihe lop of the door and side. Tliis provides clearance lhal keeps the wings from binding against The hinge.

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Once thfi hinges are screwed in place, you can lurn your attention to the table. Basically it consists of three parts: a top (E) aud two wings (I\> (Fig. A).

GLUE UP BLANK. Here again, it's easiest to make ¿ill tiiree parts from one blank. I wanted to create a thick, sturdy table. To do this. I simply glued up two pieces ol W plywood (Fig. .t).

plastic laminate. Regardless of its tliickness. the surface of the table will srill get worn from sliding workpieces across iL So to produce a durable surface, it's a good idea to glue a piece of plastic laminate to the top of the blank. And add another |)iece to tl ie bottom of the blank. Lamuiating both sides helps keep the table from warping.

track system. After trimming the laminate flush, I added an aluminum track system. This system consists of two parts: a wide, I.shaped piece, aud on top of it. a narrow mounting strip with a T-shaped slot (Fig.::).

Together, these parts form a slot lor the miter gauge. And the mounting strip makes it easy to attach a feather-board. Just slip the head of a toilet boll into the T slot aud secure the feather-board with a knob.

Note: This track system is available exclusively from Wofidamnh Pvnjtc.l S>tppl>'i>s. Refer lii Sources on page 112.

Of course, you can build the router table without using the track ;il all. In tliat case, you may want to rout a slot in the blank for a miter gauge. Or just plau on using a squared-up block to push t he workpieee pasr the bit.

INSTALL TRACK. There's nothing complicated about installing the track. The L shaped piece fits in a rabbet that's cut in the edge of the blank (Fig. Then, to position the narrow mounting strip, I used the bar on the miter gauge and a suigle layer ol" paper as a spacer. (Sec the Shop Tip above for The best way In do this.)

CROSSCUT BLANK. After attaching The narrow strip with screws it's lime to crosscut the blank to form the three table pieces (Fig. -}J. A table saw and a miler gauge with an auxiliary lence make quick work of the job of cutting the blank. And as long as you use a carbide-tipped saw blade, there's no need to worry about culling through the aluminum track. Aluminum is quite sofr, and it oils easily.

Wrap a single layer of pupcr diuund the miter qsu9» bar to ensure a srrioulli, sliding fit for the miter gauge when installing the alu-

rr.inum track «^srem to the wble top.


This router table uses the sause basic design as the deluxe version. But in order to simplify construction aud reduce the cost, there are a few minor changes.

First of all. the table and the sliding faces on the fence aren't covered with laminate.

The table also features a removable mounting plate. It's just a '/i" lldck phenolic plate, pre-dtilled for the router bit and finger holes.

Finally, the aluminum track system was eliminated. The fealherboard is attached with knobs into threaded iuserls installed hi ihe table.

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Thanksloamountingplate (fiat Ills into an opening iu the router table, changing bits is a snap (see photo), l'or sources of mounting phles, see page 112.

To provide easy access to the router, just lift the mounting plate out of the opening. Then change the bit and drop the mounting plate back iu.

TEMPLATE. The challenge is cutting 311 opening dial allows die mounting plate

To make the template, start by cut ting a '/,-• hardboard blank to the Saute size as the top of ¡tie table Jher) center the mounting piate on the blank and surround it with hardboard guide itrips. The strips are simply bimed against the plate end secured with catpet tape.

to fit nice and snug. To do this, I made a hardboard template f Step* 1 through :<).

CUT OPENING. By using the template as a guide, you can cut an identical opening in the top (Is) of the router table (Stepziu>td5).

SUPPORT STRIPS. Next add several hard-wood strips to supportthe mountingplste ¡Step 0). 'lhen simply attach the router to the mounting plate (.Step

' After removing lite mounting plate.

the next Hep is to cut a rougit opening in the template lo do this, dnii a hole in each come: that just grazes the edges of the guide strips (see detail 'a'), then rernoiP the bulk of the waste with a jig saw by cutting inside the strips.

Now flip i/ie template Over so the guide strips are on the bottom and dean up the rest of the waste with a hand-held router aiyJ flush-trim bit. To avoid changing the radius of the comers, step toutingpjst short of the comer hole*. This leaves a r.dge that's easily sanded smooth.

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C Once f/ie operwxj ¿r rompiere, yoi/H - n.:«!1 to odd tíiin, horduxx>d sirips ta provixlesupport tar tr.p rnourttíng piste To eosore that the movnting piole .-¿ ftusti vwtf) tíx.' Cap, Mari bypkxingbodi país tace dov/n on ñ fbt súdate. Then bütt thcstríps ogoinst theploteo.'yJglue títetn to trie top.

. Atthispoint ¡vsjost o mottei u( Irirrh ~ mirxj Lhe edges ot The opening fkxh with the templóte. Here ogoiri. o fwid-í>dd rojler and flush-trim bit malee qolek wark of this. iost füp the top so ¡he templóte tí an t'iv botlom. Than deán up the ivaste byrrxitirx} in the direction sbown.

" Now you can use the témplate as o gvkle to cut the opening ¿i ¿te íjW» ¿oü. Af'.er corpet-taplng the tempiate flash v.-irh the top, drill hotos In the comers os befare. Than <.ut the opening to si7e, staying aixxit to the ¡nside edge of the templóte (¡ee detall 'a').

7 AS diofi left to doh to aUacfi the router to The mounting píate. This rc-qvires dfffling heles for lite machine screws that hokf it in place. An o99/ v/ay fe iozote the holes for tfte íc/lva to me L(\e exi.strng base an your router. (I used two-sided oypettope tokeep ihebosefromsívfting.)



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ASSEMBLY do on the lop (ccnter) of ihe table. is shaped like an upside-down "T". T he

ADJUSTMENT SLOTS. To make the narrow part of each slot accepts the Assembling Ihe table is a fairly straight- fen« adjustable from front lo back, cut shard; of ihc bolt. And the head of the forward process. Bui getting all three two slots That extend about halfway across boll lits in a wide, shallow recess, parts lo form a continuous, flat surlace the ti ip of ihe table (Fit/. .5), To cut the narrow parr of each slot in docs require some care. Before you get Later, these adjustment slots will a single pass. I mounted a %"-wide dado started though. there's still some work to accept a pair ol loilet bolts. Su each one blade in ihe (able saw (Fig. fin).

Note: This cut will leave an arc at the end of the slot. But that's okay, as long asj it's ou the bottom of the table. It won't show once the table is assembled.

This means you'll need lo mark the; end of the slol on the top of the workpiccc and then ml up lo the line (Fig. '>). To reduce the chance nf kick back, turn off ihe saw and let ihe blade slop spinni ng hefnre sliding the top hack across the saw table.

To cut the narrow part ol the slot in the opposite end. you could flip Ihe workpiece over ami use ihe same setup. But tlieu ihe arc would be cut in the top surface of the table. So I moved the fence to ihe opposite side of ihe blade to cut this slot recess. Now you're ready ro cut the shallow recess for the head of the bolt. The procedure is the same, only here I used a Vs'-widc dado blade and set ii for an '/«"-deep cut (Fig. 7a).

Since ihe blade won't extend all the way through the lop. il won't be visible. So add a reference mark to establish the end ol Ihe recess. A iK-ncil mark on the rip fence thai iudicalca thetop (center) of ihe blade will work fine (Fig. 7).

Now just turn on the saw and push ihe workpiccc forward uulii Ihe end of die slot aligns with Ihe mark. As before, move ll ie fence lo the opjmilr. side of ihe blade to cur. the other recess.

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points of the mounting holes, you «in unclamp the wings <uid drill the pilot holes, 'lhcn just screw rhe hinges to the wings aud sides.

catches. To complete the table, 1 added a wood catch (Ij to each wing (I- iy. 0). lhe catch is just a thin snip of hardwood that "locks' the door in the open position. This prevents the door from swinging our from under the whig if it accidentally becomes dislodged after being bumped.

fingers. To make this work, a kerf in each catch forms two "fingers" that flex like an old fashioned clothespin, lhc lower edge of the finger tapers toward the end, and it has a small notch in die bottom edge (Fig. f/a). Ihis way. as you swing the door open, it contacts the tapered end of the catch and lifts up the lower finger. To secure the door, just open it a bit fur ther. The lower finger of the catch drops down, and the notch will securely "capture" the door.

Before attaching the catches. vouTi need to trim the end of the upper finger. This allows the miter gauge ro slide in and out of the track. Now glue and screw the catches to the wings. Just make sure you don't apply glue to the lower finger.

adjustment screws. At this point it's a good idea to flip up the wings, open the doors, and check the table to make sure it's flat and level. If ueces sary. you can install an adjustment screw in the bottom of each wing (Fig. 10). 1 're-drill a countersunk hole for die screw. 'Hie adjustment screw allows you to "tweak" the wings to create a flat, level work surface (Fig. Hta).

mount top. Once the adjustment 'slots are completed, you can mount the top. It's attached with six metal brackets to the case f Fig. $<t).

After posilionhig the lop flush with the sides and back, the brackets are just screwed in place. I also added a magnetic catch and two strike plates to keep the doors closed.

attach wings. The next step is to attach the wings. As with the doors, they're hinged to lhc case. But lirst. youH want ro make sure the aluminum track iu the wings aligns with lhc aluminum track in the top. Also, it's important dial the top surface of all three pieces is perfectly flush.

The best way I found to accomplish both things is to cut a scrap ro fir snugly in the track (Fig. Su). The scrap should be long enough to span all three pieces of the router table tup. Then turn the case and wings upside down on a jin! surface aud clamp all ihree pieccs together (Fig. K).

Now it's just a matter of marking the location of the pilol holes for the mounting screws. Tu provide clearance for the doors as they arc swung open, the hinges are set back 1* from die from edge of the sides.

Note: I used carpel tape lo keep ihe continuous hinges from shifting.

After carefully marking (lie center

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adjustment slots. TWO COflVCiiiOrti adjustment slols make il easy for you in slide the fence on and off the route/ table top.


"nif most unique thing about this router table :s that llie lencc doubles as a handle, lhe top of the fence body has a lung, wide slot iora handhold. And the inside edges of the slot are rounded for cutuiorl. But there's more to it than that.

A simple clamping system is used to lock the fence in place quickly and accurately. 'there's also an adjustable opening in the fence to accommodate different sized router bits.

The lencc consists of three main parts: a tall hody with angled corners, a fence support for rigidity {Fir/. H), and two sliding faces to adjust the size of die bit opening (refer to Fig. 17).


Resides acting as the handle, the body of the fence houses the sliding faces. Tc^ support the weight of the router lable^-a»d the router, the body needs to be sturdy and strong. So it's made up of two pieces of VV'-thick plywood. But 1 didn't glue these pieces together right away. Instead. I worked on one at a time. 'I"his made it easier to "build in" a recess for the two sliduig laces.

back fence. 1 began by cutting the back fence 0) to tinal size (Fig. !■>). A wide notch in the bottom edge of this piece forms an opening that prevents the bit from chewing up the fence.

hi addition to the notch, you also need to cut a pair nf 1.-shaped slols (Fig. f'M). The long part of each slot lets you adjust the sliding face. And later, the 'leg" 11 lakes it po<sstbk- to attach the sliding laces to the fence.

A quick way lo cut diese slols is to first drill a scriesof wrrlappinghnles.T!>en just clean up the ridges with a cliiseL

front fence. Now you're ready to start on the front fence (K) (Fig. IS). It's the same length as the back, but it's narrower. 'Ihe difference in widths forms the recess for the sliding faccs. Cutting a rabbet in the bottom edge of litis piece! creates a lip thai holds the sliding faces in the recess (Fig.

Glue-up. The next step is to glue up the Iront and back fence pieces. This

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Alignment Recess

(presents a bit of a problem. lithe pieces slip out oi alignment, the sliding faces will hind in the recess. To prevent llus. I used a simple trick.

Start by first screwing the pieces together (no glue) so the top edges and ends are flush (Fly. I J).

Note: Install the screws in the waste areas of the upper corners.

Now separate the pieces, apply glue, and reinstall the screws. T"his keeps the pieces from sliiitiu« around as you clamp up the assembly.

INSERTS. All that's left to complete the body is to install three threaded inserts, for attaching accessories like a bit guard or leatherboard (Fig. ¡.in).

HANDHOLD Now you cau turn your attention to the handhold. It's a long, wide slot at the top of the body (F>g. li). The ends oi the handhold are established by drilling two large holes, aud a jig saw makes quick work of removing the rest of the waste. After smoothing the rough spots with a file. 1 routed ronndnvers on all the edges to provide a comfortable grip.

To "slim down" die profde of the fence i(and reduce its overall weight), it's also a good idea to cut the upper corners of the body at an angle. Here again, sand the rough surfaces smooth and round over the edges.


BRACES. Next, to hold the fence square to the base, T added two triangular braces (M). Each brace is made by gluing up two pieces of V2* plywood. The braces are held in place with glue and screws. But to simplify the assembly, [ first glued and nailed the back lence CI) flush with the front edge of the base (Fig. lüa).

MOUNTING HOLES. There's one more thing to do and that's to drill two mounting holes for the toilet bolts that are used to secure the fence to the table (Figs. iGand IGa).

To locate these holes, position the fence flush with the back edge of the table. T"hen. after checking that there's an equal overhang on each side, center the holes on the T-slots iu the table. Now it's just a matter of drilling the holes for lite toilet bolts aud installing the bolts and lock knobs.



To provide accurate results, the fence needs lo be square to the lable. And since this fence is used to carry the router lable around. 1 wanted lo make sure it stayed square. So I added a sturdy fe:i<v supix>rl as a foundation. It's just a wide base and two triangular braces.

BASE. The has»1 is mi from plywood (L) '.Fig. /¿A As wiih the back fence.cutting a large notch in the base provides clearance for llie ruuter bit.

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SLIDING FACES Each of the sliding faces C.N) starts The solution, in this case, is simple.

out as a piece of lh" plywood (Fig. 17). .lust use twu layers of lamhiatc as a All that's left to complete the fence is to To create a durable surface on the "gauge" and mark the amount of material add two sliding faces. Including these faces, both sides are covered with to remove (Fig. lSu).Then slice off the makes it possible to quickly adjust the plastic lamiuate. But don't apply the extra thickness from the plywood on the f«-n<v <>i*iung for different sized Wis. The laminate ycL'Ibis would make the slkling table saw (Fig. is). sliding laces can easily be moved in or out faces thicker than the front fence BEVEL ENDS. Alter applying the lami-along the fence as needed. A threaded piece. As a result there would be a aam,youcancut:abevelood)em#Kfc«id roil and knob hold the faces in place once slight "step" between the faces aud ol" each lace (Fig. 17u). The bevels they're property adjusted. body of the fence. provide clearance for large bits, so tinitA

the size of Ihc fence opening can beared need even more.

CUT RABBET. In addition to the bevels, you'll also need to rabbet the top edge of each sliding face (Fig. 17b). This forms a lip thar firs under the lip in the front fence <K). Together, they form an interlocking (sliding) joint that keeps the sliding faces nice and flat against the fence.

DUST RELIEF. Tlie boltom edge ol each siding face is also rabheted (Fig. t7b). It's just a small rabbet dial provides some dust relief at the boltom of the fcnce.

threaded rod. Now all dial's left is to add a short, threaded rod to each sliding face. These rods pass through the L-shapcd slots in the fence, lightening a knob on the end of each rod locks the lace in place.

It's easy to lay out the location of the rods. Jusl slide each face into the fence so the ends are flush (Fig. lit). (It should also be snug along the top edge.) After marking around the slot, drill a hole iu the end aud glue in Ihc rod with epoxy (Fig. I get).

To iustall the sliding face, inscrtfl the rod in the short "leg" of the slot. Then lift up ou the face so the lop edge engages the fence, slide it and thread on a knob. ■

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fier completing the rouler table, one of the first improvements I made was to build three simple accessories for the router table and fence.

The featherboard. the router bit guard, and the vacuum attachment can all be made easily in a couple oi hours (Fig». /, and.{ and photos below).


One nice thing about the feather-board shown here is that it can be attached either to the router table fence or to the aluminum track. That gives you the kind of convenience and versatility that always comes in so handy iu a small home workshop.

To keep a work-piece flat on the Benchtop Router Table, all you need to do is mount the featherboard to the fence with knobs that thread into the inserts. Or. if you prefer, secure the featherboard to the track with toilet bolls and knobs to hold the workpiece against the fence.

The featherboard is a piece of x/zT-thick hardwood. It has mitered ends and a pair of adjustment slots cut par-llcl to its sides <Fig. J). To cut the slots thai form the fingers. 1 lilted the blade on the table saw and clamped the featherboard to an auxiliary fence on the miter gauge.



Finally. I decided to add a simple dust collection system that attaches to the back of the rouler table fence and connects to a shop vacuum.

It's made up of two triangular sides and a faceplate with a hole cut to fit the vacuum hose (Fig. S). After beveling the faceplate to fit against the fence and table, it's simply glued lotl>e sides. Gluing the atlachment to the fence holds it securely iu place.

For safely, you should include a bitguard on the router table. This guard attaches to the fence with knobs that thread into the two outer inserts.

Note: Ihe middle insert is for the featherboard (see photo above).

The guard consists of a hardwood back and a shield made from Vi" poly carbonate plastic (Fig. 2). Alter cutting two adjustment slots in the back, the stuck! is screwed in place.

Compact Router Table

Otherwise, durable plastic versions (see photo on page 56) are available from a variety of mail order suppliers of hardware and accessories (see page 112).

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Horizontal Router Table Plans

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A Course In Wood Turning

A Course In Wood Turning

Ever wondered what wood turning is all about? Here are some invaluable information on how to make beautiful items out of wood! That one little strategy from A Course In Wood Turning that I implemented not only worked, but the results were completely astonishing. I had never seen anything like it! Now, keep in mind that I had tried a lot of other products up until this point. You name it, I probably tried it! That’s how desperate I was to improve my skills with wood turning.

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