This portable saw station makes your miter saw work even harder It combines extension wings for long stock with a stop system for accurate repeat cuts

Tedswoodworking Plans

16.000 Woodworking Plans

Get Instant Access

Chop Saw Station

Every time i looked at my power extension wings. To support long fence system. Most miter saws lencos miter saw. I'd diitik about building workpieoes, I designed a voir of extension are too short making it hard to position a work station for it—somethingto wings that altach to the ends of the long workpieces. So I added a pair of rails support long stock. with a system for station. For portability, these wings out to extend the fences. I also added a stop making repeat cuts accurately. be "tucked" away inside the case (see system (liat Slides in sluts ail in die fence

The challenge was lo incorporate left photo below). And when stored, ihe rails (see photo below), all those ideas without sacrificing porta- wings provide built-in handles to make A hardware kit for the saw station is bility. My answer was this Miter Saw it easy to lift and move the miter saw available from Woodxmitfi Projrs.t.

Station (see photo above). (see photo below). Sitppb>Jt, see Sourcesou page 112.

Saw Materials Stop

M0TF: A150 frf FO ONE .1« x t? Vlf H l>: M" H.YWOOD

STOP VftltM

CLAVP BIOCK

MATERIALS LIST

Miter Saw Extension Measuring Gauge

MATERIALS LIST

CASE

J tables (2) piy -10'.'i x 1 FENCE & STOP SYSTEM

HARDWARE SUPPLIES

(1) Via" (hrnxwd iiwil

(4) Bolts jig T-nuts to mountmitersaw

K L

ii x SK> - IjL/'j Ud Fti

1 I

'Sly///////////;. . //. 7A

Si* HARDBOARD 1? t 4S

Si* HARDBOARD 1? t 4S

M0TF: A150 frf FO ONE .1« x t? Vlf H l>: M" H.YWOOD

CUTTING DIAGRAM

EXPLODED VIEW

f OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 84W x 16D x 6'/«H

STOP VftltM

CLAVP BIOCK

<Nj hote: SJDESARE V THICK STOCK. BOTTOM. PLAjrORfA AMD TOP RFCf S ARF ii • R VWB09

3. rabset detail

Y

a

A

hote: SJDESARE V THICK STOCK. BOTTOM. PLAjrORfA AMD TOP RFCf S ARF ii • R VWB09

Miter Saw Station

CASE

I started work on the .Miter Saw Station hv making the ease and platform for the saw. The case is just a simple open-ended box with IJ-shaped sides (Fig. I).

sides. The U shape forms a recess for the miter saw to sit in (Fig. i). At the same lime, il creates a work suppor t surface on either side of the saw.

To lil most 10" milersaws. the recess in each side (A) is 20" wide.

Notts Fnra sliding compound ur large miter saw. you may need lo adjust the case dimensions. Have your saw on hand before you cul any pieces.

The important thing is Thai the top of the case end up flush with the table of your saw. For this to happen, the height (width) of ihc short pieces ihat form the sides of the "I J" must match the height of the saw table top (Fig. i).

bottom. platform. and top. The bottom (B), platform (C).and lop pieces 0» are all the same width (1 fi"). But the lengths of these pieces vary (Fig. 1,1. To keep the pieces aligned. I cut rabbets on the edges (Fig. ia). Then I glued and screwed Ihc case together.

braces. Next, to strengthen the case and lo help prevent il from racking during use, 1 added two 3A"-thick hardwood braces (E) (Fig. 2). They fit between the sides and under the lop pieces (D).

mount saw. At this point the saw can be attached to the case. To do this, center the saw on the platform between the sides. And slide il as close to the front edge of the platlorm as possible. Then drill holes and secure the saw with T uuls and hex bolts (Fig. 2a).

supports. Next, two supports (F) are cut and glued in each end of the case (Fig.S).'l'hc.ic supports are used later to mount the wings.

Noie: I found il was easiest lo drill holes in the supports (for the wings before gluing and screwing (hem place (Fig. J).

To complete the station's case, screwed four rubber feci lo the bottoc (refer to Fig. /). These keep the static from sliding around during use.

Wall Mounted Miter Saw Station

NOTE: SCREW APPORTS TO TCP AND BOTTOM

note: sup»3rt

IS MAX fTvOM th>:k stock

NOTE: SCREW APPORTS TO TCP AND BOTTOM

note: sup»3rt

IS MAX fTvOM th>:k stock

Miter Saw Table

t3 I V Fh WOUOSUfcV.'

XNCB

TAfil? SUPPQRT

note: table is w PLYW0GO. LIP. PJj AND table support a-:l v thick stock jr * 1#t oi WOODSOIEW

see figures SANoercRuxAiic«

end detail

table support oct ail

1SMNA. HCtE

Portable Miter Saw WorkbenchLong Miter Saw Station

first:

INSERT WING M CAS: AND " MARK SECOND SET CF HOLES

second: DIGLL 4VrOtfi H01FS IN FND5

third:

subtract W fur clearancc (107»"). Then rabbet the edges and glue and screw the wings together.

attach the wings. In order to knock down and set up the wings quickly, they're held in place with threaded knubs (ur thumbscrews) ar.d T-nuls. (For mail-order hardware sources, see page 112.) The threaded knobs pass through the holes you drilled earlier in the supports (F) and thread intoT-nutS (Fig. ia).

WINGS

After completing the ease. 1 started on a pair of extension wings to Support long (workpieces (Fig. ,i).

lip. lint before work can begin ou these wings, you'll need to glue a hardwood lip (('.) across each end ui the case (Fig. i). This lip covers the edge of the plywood bottom (B) and helps to sup port the wings.

wings. With the lips glued in place, you can make the wings. Each why» consists of an end (H), two supports (I), and a labk- 0) (Fig.

'lhe first step is to make the ends. To prevent a work-piece from catching on The wings, it's important that the ends (H) be flush with the top of the case. The height of the ends (H) is the distance from the top of the lip to die top of the case (for me. this distance was 6").

To complete the ends (H), I cut a handle hole in each to make it easy to move the saw (Fig. i).

supports and table. Attached to each end (H) are two table supports (1) ar.d a table U) (Fig. i). To size the table so the wings will fit :r.side the case, measure between the supports GO and

Two sets of holes ir. each wing allow you to use the same knobs to secure the wing in either the open or stored position. The tricky part is aligning these holes with the ones you drilled in the supports (F). To do this. I used dowel centers (Figs. Hand 0).

Next install theT-nuts. Finally, position the wings and thread in the kuobs.

Miter Saw Extension Wings

installing r-nuis isn't as simple as it might seem One easy way to "draw" o 7nut into hardwood (like the supports on the Miter Saw Station) is to use a wrench and a hex-heac' bolt (see drawing below).

Installing T-Nute

Miter Saw Fence Rails

FENCE RAILS To solve both of these problems, i three parts. Each fence rail is decided to add a pair of shop-built fence made up of three parrs: a base, back. On« the wings are complete, the Mirer >r»h (Fig. 7). They feature a built-inT-slot and face/T^.SJ.The base 00 provides Saw Station is ready to use. But I've for a stop system added later (refer a foundation for the back. And two never been satisfied with the short to page 48). mounting holes drilled in each base fences on my miter saw. It's awkward lo And just like the wings, the mils attach allow you to attach the rails to the case position and hi ild a long workpiece. And to the case with tlireatled knobs. This way later (Fig». 7 and V). fur repeat cuts, there's nothing to clamp they am be removed easily and stored Each back (LI supports the workpiece a stop block to. (Fig. J! on the opposite page). and is grooved for the slop system)

added later (Fig. 8). After each groove is cut, a back is glued to a base lo form an "L" (Fig.

For accurate cuts, it's important (hat the back is 90 ' lo the base. So before you glue these pieces up, dry clamp them and check for square.

Note: Make sure to glue on each base <K) to create a right and a kill fence rail. The end of each base with ihe mounting hole should lace in toward the saw (Figs. 7 and a).

face. Tlie next slep is lo add Ihe face pieces. Each face (,\i) is cut from VT-thick hardboard and is glued on top of the groove in each back (Fig. n).

.Not«': After gluing on the ¿ices, sand or rout a chamfer on the bottom front edge for sawdust relief (Fig. S,I.

t-slot. Finally, lo create the T (and provide a rock-solid way to lock the stop system in place). a slot is cut in each face (Fig». 9 and !to).

MOUNTING THE RAILS

After ihe ter.ee mils have been completed, they can he attached lo ihe station's' case. Jus I like the wings you made earlier (refer to page 4fi), the mils will be held in place wilh threaded knobs and 'l'-nuts (Fig. 10).

Saw Station

PRF-nsii i TWO

MOUNTING HO.Fi IN EACH RAIL

notf: BASE /'AO HACK AK£ MACE FROM »VTH« STOCK. I ACL Ii Yr WARDSOARD

note: chamfer bottom eosf c.f facf fcft savrtxal kllif nnifj/.inr

BACK

CUT GROOVf IM FACT TO CREATE T-SLOT

The tricky part is mounting the mils Ike/re in line wilh the miter saw knee. To do this. I use a long straightedge (in my case. a four fool level) to position lite rails (Fig. 10).

mounting holts. To locate ihe Iwles lor lite l'-nuls. clamp the straightedge to the saw fence, and the fence rail lo the wing (Fig. 10).

Holding the orher end of the rail in place, drill through the holes in ihe base and into the case and wings (Fig. ll)a).

Note: Making the rails removable means more convenience and versatility for you. but il could make for more problems if you have to follow the same procedure to position litem every time. To make it easy to realign the rails whenever they're removed, see the Shop Tip below right.

t-nuts. All that's left is to add T uuts and tiireaded knobs. Ihen screw the rails in place (Fig. 7a).

STORING THE FENCE RAILS

I wanted the Miter Saw Station to be not only useful, but also portable.

To make it as convenient as possible Jo lift and move the station, ihe fence rails can be mounted out of the way on the rear of the case (Fig. 11). They're held in place there with the same plastic knobs used to mount them on lop of the case (Fig. 11).

third hole. To bolt both rail euds lo ihe ease, you'll need lo driLl a third W-dia. mounting hole in from the end of each fence rail (Fig. 11).

Then, to locate the matching holes in ihe case for ihe Tnuls. just hold each rail up against the case. And drill through ll ie hole in each end of die rail and into the side (Fig11 and I la).

mount rails. Finally, lo secure the fence rails, insert the T-nuts and screw the rails lo ihe case with the threaded knobs (Fig.! I ).

Was this article helpful?

+1 0
A Newbies Guide To Wood Working

A Newbies Guide To Wood Working

Wonder No Longer About Things Like Designs, Tools And Safety. These Problems Among Others Will Be Covered In This E-Book. You Will Be Creating Great Wooden Works Of Art In Very Little Time At All! For The Beginning Woodworker, The Construction of Handcrafted Wood Creations Can Be a Daunting And Overwhelming Experience. Well, Not Anymore!

Get My Free Ebook


Responses

Post a comment