Library Bookends Stepbystep

Start with the bases

O Laminate the bases together: First, rip and crosscut the four base pieces to size, according to the Cutting List dimensions on page 128. Glue pairs of base pieces together to form two 1^2-in.-thick bases.

© Round over the top edges of each base assembly: Ease one end and two edges around the top face of each base assembly with a router and 1/4-in. roundover bit.

© Bore the ballast holes in the bases (optional). Lay out the locations of the ballast holes on the liases, following the Bases drawing on page 129. Drill the 12 holes in each base with a lV'4-in. Forstner bit on the drill press (See Photo A).

Assemble the frames & dividers

© Cut the eight frame pieces to size and shape: First, crosscut eight TV.s-in.-long blanks from your (>-in.-wide white oak board. Lay out the frame shape (See the Frames & Divider drawing, page 129) onto one of the blanks, and cut out the frame piece. Remove the center cutout area by drilling relief holes at each of the cutout corners large enough for a scroll saw blade, then trim out the waste piece on the scroll saw. Clean up the cut (idges with a file and sandpaper'. Use this frame piece as a pattern for tracing the shape on the other seven workpieces. Cut them all to shape (See Photo B).

© Join the frames together and ease the edges: Glue and clamp pairs of frames together to form four frame assemblies. Be sure the edges and ends of the parts are flush. When the glue dries, rout around the cutout area on one face of each frame assembly with a piloted 45c chamfer bit set to a depth of 3/lfi in. Then ease the top end and angled and back edges of this chamfered face with a router and Vi-in. roundover bit.

© Make the dividers: Rip and crosscut blanks for the walnut dividers. Transfer the shape of the divider onto one of the blanks, following the Frames & Divider drawing on page 129. Cut the divider to

PHOTO A: (Optional) Drill three rows of l^ ln.-dla. holes Into the top face of both bases with a Forstner bit In the drill press. These holes will be filled with ballast and concealed by the base caps.

PHOTO B: Lay out and cut one frame to shape on the scroll saw, then use this first frame piece as a pattern for tracing the shapes of the other seven frames. To remove the center cutout from each frame, drill relief holes at each corner of the cutout so you can turn the workplece on the scroll saw as you cut.

PHOTO B: Lay out and cut one frame to shape on the scroll saw, then use this first frame piece as a pattern for tracing the shapes of the other seven frames. To remove the center cutout from each frame, drill relief holes at each corner of the cutout so you can turn the workplece on the scroll saw as you cut.

PHOTO E: Position the front piates on top of the bases, ciamp them in piace and attach them to the frame/divider assemblies with glue and four lH-ln. flathead wood screws.

PHOTO C: Flatten the long edges and bottom ends of the frame/divider assemblies on the [Dinter or sander. The purpose here is to produce flat, even surfaces to attach to the base caps and front plates.

Handsaw Bookends

PHOTO D: Attach the bases to the frame/base cap subassemblies with glue and countersunk 2-ln. wood screws. Ciamp and fasten the parts together carefully to keep from spilling the ballast.

shape, trace its profile onto the second walnut blank and cut out the other divider. Rout the top ends and angled and back edges with the '/4-in. roundover bit.

O Glue up the frames and dividers: Spread glue over the inside faces of two frame assemblies and sandwich them around a divider. Clamp up the pails, making sure the flat, square edges of the three parts are flush. Then flatten the flush edges and ends of both frame/divider assemblies on a jointer (See Photo C). You could also use a stationary sander.

Make the base caps & front plates

0 Cut the two base caps to size, then round over one end and two edges of the top face of each cap with a router and H-in. roundover bit.

O Make the front plates. Surface-plane an 8-in.-wide, 20%-in. oak blank down to % in. thick. Crosscut the blank in half to form the two front plates, and sand the parts smooth.

Assemble the bookends

© Fasten the base caps to the frame/dividers. Glue and screw a base cap to each frame/divider, so the flat end (without the roundover) of the base cap is flush with the long, flat edge of the frame/divider. Drive four countersunk lV^-in. wood screws up through the base caps to attach them to the frame/dividers. See the Base Cap drawing, page 129, for screw placement.

© Install the bases. First, fill the ballast holes with weight (steel shot, sinkers, brads or short screws will all do the trick). Then glue and screw the bases to the base caps with four countersunk 2-in. flat-head wood screws (See Photo D). Note that the flat end of each base cap assembly is set back % in. from the flat end (without the roundover) of the bases to leave room for installing the front plate.

© Fasten the front plates to the bookends with four countersunk lH-in. flathead wood screws and glue (See Photo E).

Finishing touches

© Break any remaining sharp edges with sandpaper and clean up residual glue squeeze-out. Apply three coats of clear polyurethane varnish.

PHOTO C: Flatten the long edges and bottom ends of the frame/divider assemblies on the [Dinter or sander. The purpose here is to produce flat, even surfaces to attach to the base caps and front plates.

PHOTO D: Attach the bases to the frame/base cap subassemblies with glue and countersunk 2-ln. wood screws. Ciamp and fasten the parts together carefully to keep from spilling the ballast.

PHOTO E: Position the front piates on top of the bases, ciamp them in piace and attach them to the frame/divider assemblies with glue and four lH-ln. flathead wood screws.

Cabinets

Store your best table linens and display your favorite china, glassware or curios in this handsome, efficient ' pair of stacked oak cabinets. Constructed as two separate units, the upper and lower cabinets are attached together to form a hutch-style storage unit that's at home in a dining room, kitchen or even a living room.

Vital Statistics: Oak Cabinets

TYPE: Storage and display cabinet OVERALL SIZE: 36W by 75H by 16D MATERIAL: Red oak, oak plywood and glass JOINERY: Rabbet joints, double-rabbet joints, dowel joints

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS:

■ upper cabinet fitted with glass doors in oak frame

- Lower cabinet has two 8 x 14 x 31-ln. drawers

- Oak trim is profiled with ogee router bit

- Sturdy base structure

■ Decorative crown molding frame on upper cabinet

- Visible carcase panels made from solid oak FINISHING OPTIONS: Stain with ciear topcoat

Building time

CUTTING PARTS 8-10 hours

ASSEMBLY 4-6 hours

FINISHING 2-4 hours

TOTAL: 22-32 hours

Tools you'll use

Tabie saw Jointer

Power miter saw

Jig saw or hand saw

Router and router table with straight, rabbet and ogee bits

Drill/driver

Tape measure and metal rule

Combination square

36-ln. or longer bar or pipe clamps (8)

C-clamps

Hammer or tack hammer

Screwdriver

Wood chisels

Doweling jig

Naiiset

Pegboard drilling guide

Shopping list

□ (1)3Ax4x4oak plywood

□ Hardware: {&) 21/2-in, brass butt hinges; (2) pairs 14-in, drawer slides; [6) 31/4-in. pulls; (4) door catches; (4j foot levelers

L I Fasteners: 1-in. wire brads, 4d finish nails, 3/e-in. dowel pins, #& x lV4-in. screws

□ Finishing materials

Base Cutting List

Upper Cabinet Cutting List

End oak

Lower Cabinet Cutting List

E. Sides

G. Bottom

I. Trim

Oak Cabinets u (typ)

Magnetic catches

butt hinges

L.

Adj. shelves

2

% x 9Hie x 301/4 in. Oak plywood

M, Back panel

1

Va x 31 Vè x 48Ví¡ in.

■I

N.

Stiles

4

3/4 X IVA x 474s in.

Red oak

0.

Rails (top)

2

fyÁ x 2Vfe x lme in.

R_

Rh i Is (mid)

2

X 2V4 x 1 me in.

«i

a

Rails (btm)

2

% x 2M x 11Mb in.

»

R.

Retainer

S

Va x % x Cut to lit

■i

S.

Light (upper) 2

Vs x ll^Viö x 19% in.

Glass

T.

Light (lower) 2

Vè x 111546 X 213^ in.

H

U.

Crown

3

x 37A6 x Cut to fit

Red oak

V.

Trim

5

Cut to fit

H

Drawer Cutting List

W. Sides

4

Vi x 8 x 14 in.

Plywood

X.

Front/back

Vi? x 8 x 31 Vi in.

■t

Y.

Bottom

2

V4 x L31^x3min.

M

Z.

Drawer front 2

^4X83/4X34^ in.

Red oak

Magnetic catches

Glass

31A" pull

Part No. Size Material

A. Foot Blocks 4 1 Vi xVAtx 4U in. Poplar

Part No. Size Material

B, Bottom

1 Vi x 15-14 x 34Vi in. Birch plywood

1/4 X Vz" Slots

5V2"

Each square ec\uaJs 1"

Each square ec\uaJs 1"

5V2"

fl

KVz

1

K1"

r*

y

-JSJII

■—

BASE PATTERN

V/21

Crowii molding

34" f

Crowii molding

MOLDING PROFILES

AV4"

34" f

Drawer front

ZVz" butt

19^3"

FRONT ELEVATION

SIDE ELEVATION SIDE SECTION

ZVz" butt

19^3"

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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