Oval Picture Frame Stepbystep

Make templates for the frame & stand

If you plan to build a number of these frames, we suggest you make a hardboard template for the frame and stand. Sturdy templates will make quick work of drawing the frame pints to size again and again.

O Transfer full-size copies of the frame and stand layout patterns shown on page 181 to your hard-board. We enlarged the patterns on a photocopier, cut them out and used spray adhesive to stick the patterns to the hardboard. Scroll-saw the templates to rough size, cutting just outside your layout lines. Smooth the edges of the patterns on a drum sander, if you have one.

Make the frame, stand & back

© Cut the frame to shape. First crosscut a 7-in.-longblank for the frame from your %-in. oak stuck. Use the hardboard template for the frame to trnce the part onto your oak blank, then cut out the frame on the scroll saw or with a jig saw (See Photo A). Sand the cut edges smooth on the drum sander.

0 Chamfer the inside edges of the frame: Install a piloted 45" chamfer bit in your router, set the hit for a M-in.-deep cut, and rout a decorative chamfer around the inside edge of the frame (See Photo B). If you want to mill a decorative profile on the outside of the frame as well, this is the time to do it. Guide the router counterclockwise around the workpieee.

© Cut a rabbet into the back of the frame for the glass and back panel. You'll make this cut in two passes. For the first pass, install a 34-in. piloted rabbeting bit in your router and cut a Va-in.-deep rabbet around the inside edge of the frame back (See Detail: Frame drawing, page VS1). Then reset the bit depth to 3/8 in. and make a second pass around the frame to finish up the rabbet.

© Cut the stand to shape. Crosscut a 5%-in.-long blank of !4-in.-thick oak fbr the stand. On the table saw, bevel the top and bottom edges of the blank at 13° (See Photo C). See the Side Section View

PHOTO A: Draw the frame shape onto %-ln. oak stock, then cut out the frame on the scroll saw. We made a hardboard template to trace this shape and to keep on hand for making more frames. Drill a starter hole for the blade In order to cut out the center of the frame.
PHOTO B: Mill the 45° chamfer on Hie inside edge of the frame with the router held free-hand. Use a non-slip pad beneath the workplece while you rout Then turn the frame over, switch to a VHn. piloted rabbeting bit and rout the back rabbet around the Inside edge.

drawing, page 181, to determine the orientation of these bevel cuts. Your goal here is to trim just enough m;iterial off the ends of the blank Lo form the bevels. Then use the hardboard pattern to trace the shape of the stand on your blank and cut it out on the scroll saw. Smooth the cut edges on the drum sander.

PHOTO D: Four brass turn buttons hoid the glass, photo and back in the frame, install the hardware so the turn buttons are spaced evenly around the frame. Drill pilot holes for the tiny turn button screws.

PHOTO E: After locating the hinge position, mount the hinge to the frame back with #4 x Va-ln. brass flathead wood screws. Fasten the hinge to the stand with bolts and nuts. Arrange the bolts so you can thread the nuts on from the back of the stand. Tighten the nuts and bolts with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

PHOTO C: Tiit the tabie saw biade to 13° and bcvel-cut the top and bottom ends of the stand blank. Hoid the workpiece against the miter gauge to make these cuts.

PHOTO D: Four brass turn buttons hoid the glass, photo and back in the frame, install the hardware so the turn buttons are spaced evenly around the frame. Drill pilot holes for the tiny turn button screws.

O Make the back panel. Lay out the back on a piece of V'4-ir\. oak, using the Back Layout grid pattern on page 181 as a guide for drawing the shape. Cut out the back, and sand the edges until the back panel fits easily into the rabbet on the frame.

Finishing touches

O Smooth the entire project with 220-grit sandpaper. Apply several coats of clear satin polyurethane, sanding lightly between each with 320-grit paper or #0000 steel wool. Since the frame parts are small, we sprayed the varnish from an aerosol can rather than brushing on the finish.

O Install the glass, back and turn buttons. Drill pilot holes for the tiny turn button screwrs (See Photo D),

0 Attach the hinge to the frame and stand with screws, bolts and nuts. Since the hinge is small and the space confined, install it as follows: Mark the hinge position on the frame back and on the stand as shown in the Back Layout drawing, page 181. Mount the hinge to the frame back first with J4-in. flathead wood screws driven into pilot holes. Slip two #4 x 1/2-in. bolts through holes in the hinge leaf that will be attached to the stand, so the heads of the bolts face the frame. Drill holes through the stand for the hinge bolts. Then slide the bolts through the holes in the stand and attach with nuts

PHOTO E: After locating the hinge position, mount the hinge to the frame back with #4 x Va-ln. brass flathead wood screws. Fasten the hinge to the stand with bolts and nuts. Arrange the bolts so you can thread the nuts on from the back of the stand. Tighten the nuts and bolts with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

(See Photo E). Tighten the nuts with needle-nose pliers. File the bolt ends flush with the nuts.

(£) Mount your photo. Remove the frame back and use it as a template for tracing a cutting line onto your photo. Trim the photo to shape, slip it into place and reinstall the frame back.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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