To make the lid molding, take an 8-ft. length of the hardwood you're using, and rip it to 1^16 in. wide by 1 '/8 in. thick. Rough-cut the molding stock into three pieces: one 4-ft. length for the front, and two 2-ft. lengths for the ends. Mortise the end pieces to accept the tenon on each end of the lid.
Gccr relied on molding planes to shape the moldings. I came up with a modern alternative, using a tabiesaw, a router and three bits. Follow the six-step sequence below to create the three picccs of molding.
Like the skirt, the lid molding is a three-piece assembly that is rnitered together at the corners. First, miter and glue the front piece to the front edge of the lid. Then cut and test fit the end pieces. Before gluing these joints, drill three holes in each end for '/4-in.-dia. wooden pegs. (See Lid Detail, page 39.) After drilling the holes, remove the ends and elongate the two rear holes in the
Begin the drawer by dimensioning stock for the sides, front and back. Next, rout the rounded overlay detail on the front of the drawer using a 3/16-in. round-over bit. Rabbet the front's top edge and ends, then dado the front and sides for the bottom panel.
The drawer sides join the front with half-blind dovetails and the back with through dovetails. Geer cut the back tails "backwards;" I chose to reproduce this detail. (See photo, below.) As with the case joinery, I cut the tails first, then use them to lay out the pins.
Wrong-way tails. John Wheeler Geer; the original craftsman, cut the tails on the backs of drawers instead of the sides—perhaps as a maker's mark.
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