The height dimensions for the turned top featured in aw «35 were incorrect. Here are the correct dimensions.
Re: "Tuning Japanese Planes" (aw »34). Toshio Odatc mentions (that reducing] the surface area of the plane sole makes the plane easier to pull. He and authors of similar articles confuse the effect of contact area on friction. Any physics textbook will tell you that friction is independent of [contact] area.
If friction were truly dependent upon eontaet area, many woodworking operations would be difficult or impossible to accomplish. How could one slide a 4-ft. by 8-ft. sheet of % in. plywood over a saw table? The controlling factor (in planing| is downward force, which has to be applied to keep the plane blade cutting. If this downward force is changed, then the force required to pull the plane will change proportionately.
Jerry Glaser Playa del Ray, CA
Toshio Odate says tliat to prepare a Japanese plane for trueing, one scrapes the sole concave so that the plane contacts a flat surface only at the very front, the very back and at the blade. From my experience (and common sense), a plane set up this way could only be expected to produce a convex surface, with the curvature corresponding to the concavity of the sole.
Allan Boardman Woodland Hills, CA
Toshio Odate replies: If you plane all day long, you will appreciate having less surface area in contact with the wood. Less contact area means you don t have to press as hard to get the blade to cut.
Also, it isn't the contour of the sole that determines whether a surface will be planed flat, but the way you use the plane. With practice you learn to vary downward pressure—less pressure at Ok* beginning and etui of the cut and more in the middle.
The method you described for molding muntins with a router and feather board ("Q&A," aw «31) is a solution but it can still be somewliat tedious. This is particularly true on small muntin cross sections that have very little flat left for tracking the final cut.
The method that I find most comfortable is to start with a wider board, or if the material used is expensive, glue the muntin stock to a piece of scrap. (See drawing.) This gives you several inches to hold on to when cutting the last muntin.
Ken net h Folk
The article on moisnire meters (aw *34) was very good, but I can t believe you neglected the Wagner L606 meter, which has no pins so it doesn't leave holes. The meter can be used to check moisnire along the entire length of the lumber in seconds.
Eugene Wengert Department of Forestry IJ ni versity of Wisconsin
Information on the Wagner meter arrived t(xj late to be included in our tesl See this month's Tool Box column (Jxige 86) for more on this meter.
I like the "Dual-Purpose Roller Stand" (aw *35) but I don't have a lot of room in my shop so I use a "dual-purpose" step ladder. If the steps aren't the right height to support the work, I clamp a board [horizontally] to the outside edges of two legs.
R.W Siemon Port Saint Lucie, FL
I clipped your word from the editor on "Milking Do" (aw #35), framed it and hung it on my workshop wall, right where my tool rack is going to be...someday. You just may have realigned this paralyzed perfectionist's whole approach to woodworking. Thank you!
Warren Stottler Vassal toro, ME
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