The cracked, scratched and dull varnish on this tablet op (above) was restored in two steps: first with a product that "re-knits'* the surface, then fliiLHhed with a padding finish.

The cracked, scratched and dull varnish on this tablet op (above) was restored in two steps: first with a product that "re-knits'* the surface, then fliiLHhed with a padding finish.

bar, page 61.) They work over all common types of finishes because they're mostly shellac, which makes them perfect for topcoating an existing finish or for spot repair, as long as the finish is clean and has been washed free of wax.

To make a pad for general finishing, squeeze together a handful of cotton (the type you find at pharmacies) and wrap it with a piece of cloth about

Author makes a finishing pad hy wru|h ping layer» of lint-free cloth around a handful of cotton.

10 in. wide and 24 in. long. This makes a pad about the size of a tennis ball. For Larger surfaces such as a desk- or table-top, make the pad a little bigger. For spot repairs where you need to cover a small area with finish, a golf-ball-sized pad will give you pinpoint control.

The wTapping can be any cloth that doesn't stretch or leave lint. A well-washed bcdshcct is gcxxl, or you can buy cloth designed specifically for padding. (See Sources.) Place the cotton at one end of the wrapping and mil the wrapping over the cotton, tucking in the edges as you go. Pull tightly to make a ball with many layers around the cotton. l*ull out any wrinkles so you

have a bottom surface tliat's smooth.

Before padding, make sure the surface of the finish is clean and free of wax, then sand lightly with 320-grit paper and remove any dust. Use a tack cloth as a final step to ensure the surface is free of debris.

Now hold your pad lx>ttom-up in UK-palm of your hand and saturate it with your padding finish, squeezing it lightly to force out any excess. Then cover the pad with another piece of wrapping, this one alxnit 5 in. square, and wrap this tightly over the pad, twisting the corners of this outer wrap together. Again, check to see that there are no wrinkles at the bottom.

To begin padding, tap the pad a couple of times on the palm of your liand to disperse the finish. Holding die pad tightly, bring it down gently onto the surface you're working on, just like an airplane landing: The pad should skim onto the surface, and pressure should be light.

Work only a small section at a time, and start padding in straight strokes— with the grain—moving slowly without overlapping the previous stroke. (See drawing.) Don't worry about leaving bare spots for now; the next stage will lake care of them. Pad right off die edge of the surface, then come back for the next stroke like an airplane landing. This initial padding 'conditions' the pad (makes it drier) for the next step and allows you to deposit a fair amount of finish quickly without pooling the finish in any one area.

When you've covered the surface with straight strokes and "conditioned" the pad (it takes me about 10 seconds for a 2-ft.-square area), pad in a succession of circular, slightly overlapping movements, as shown in the drawing. Keep steady pressure on the pad, and intersperse circular movements with

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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