stand proud of the d<x>r's surface.
After cutting the groove. I squared out the corners with a chisel, then mitcred the inlay and glued it in place, putting glue only in the recess to prevent the banding from swelling. When the glue was dry. I scraped and sanded the inlay Hush with the door's surface. (Sec aw »19.)
The drawers have half-blind dovetails in front and through dovetails in back. (For more on dovetailing, see aw »19 and »29.) The drawer bottoms fit into '«-in. grooves cut in the fronts and sides and are nailed into the backs of the drawers. (See detail in Fig. 4.)
I started the drawers by inlaying my client's initials and the date of construction on the drawer fronts. (See sidebar, opposite page.) Then 1 cut the dovetails by hand and grooved the parts on the tablesaw.
I tapered the drawer bottoms to fit the drawer grooves, using a marking gauge to score the edge for thickness and to mark the width of the bevel on the face. I used a block plane to plane the wood between the gauge marks. After assembling the drawers, I hand-planed each one for a perfect fit to its opening.
Fitting the Back
The back of the box is '¿-in.-thick poplar, beveled on three edges with
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