W

Author draws the rough outline of the bowl along the top and sides of the blank.

around the pith. Otherwise the finished bowl will usually crack as it dries. I like to pencil bottom and rim lines on the ends of the blank to help guide me during hewing.

Hewing is a two-step process. First, with the blank set on a stump at a comfortable height, I make a scries of scoring chops with a hatchet, chopping with a hefty swing at about 45° to the surface. (See photo, opposite page.) After these scoring cuts, I remove the chips by hewing at an angle nearly parallel to the surface of the blank. Then I reverse the blank end for end and repeat the scoring and hewing process. I hew until I'm close to the lines I've drawn and the surfaces are approximately flat.

Hewing can be dangerous. To protect yourself, tilt the blank so the hewing action is close to vertical. Then with your legs out of the path of the hatchet, chop into die lower lialf of the blank, keeping the hand you're using to hold the blank behind the surface being hewn. (See photo, opposite page.)

After flattening the top and bottom with the hatchet, I use scrub and jack planes to finish flattening these surfaces. And I'm rather fussy about getting the bottom flat so that the bowl won't rock during the hollowing process. I place winding sticks (two picccs of wood that arc exactly the same width) across die two ends of the bowl and sight across them to make sure the surface is flat.

Drawing the Rim Outlines

When the top and bottom are flat, I draw the rough outline of the exterior of the bowl on die blank. (See top photo at right, and Fig. 2.) When marking out the interior of the rim, I first draw lines about 2 in. in from the end lines. The exact distance depends on how wide the handles will be. Then I draw the sides about % in. in from the exterior side lines. Finally, I draw a pleasing radius where the interior end lines meet the side lines. Note: The ends of the bowl must be thicker than the sides, since the ends consist of short (and weak) end-grain fibers.

Hollowing the Bowl

I prefer to hollow the bowl now, because the block still has a flat bottom and perpendicular ends, which make it

Working on a low bench, author uses a Swedish hollowing adze to begin hollowing the bowl.
To determine the thickness of the bowl bottom, measure against u ruler set ucross the rim. The difference between the inside and outside measurements represents the thickness.

easy to secure to the bench.

I start cutting with a Swedish hollowing adze that has a 2,/ein.-widc blade (available from Country Workshops, 90 Mill Creek Rd., Marshall, NC 28753, 704-656-2280). I work with the bowl secured to a low bench, about 15 to 20 in. liigh. (See photo above.) This way, I can hold the adze handle with both hands and swing from the elbows rather than the wrists, resulting in greater accuracy. The cuts must always be from the

With the blank clamped to the workbench, author uses a bent gouge to refine the shape of the interior.

far side of the bowl block toward the center, so you're cutting downhill relative to the long wood fiber. But don't cut in at too sharp an angle, or the adze will stick in the wood and leave a very rough surface.

After chopping the surface from one direction, I move to the other end of the bowl and chop into my first cuts, lifting out large chips and leaving a rather smooth surface at the bottom of each cut. I continue these alternat

FIG. 2: BOWL PROPORTIONS

Curve rim downward at middle.

FIG. 2: BOWL PROPORTIONS

Curve rim downward at middle.

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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

THIS book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this series, it is written so you can understand it. The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects. The textand illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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