Routing The Frame

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Ted's Woodworking Plans

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Three circular cuts must be made on the octagonal frame. To hold the frame steady for these cuts, I cut a small holding block to fit (very tight) between two inside edges of the frame. Fig. 2. This block is tacked to the plywood backing board.

To find the center point for the pivot hole place a ruler at each joint line and mark a center "star" on the holding block.

outside circle. In order to cut the outside perimeter of the frame, I drilled a pilot hole in the frame so I'd have a place to lower the bit for each pass and to start the cut without tilting the router. Fig. 3. This hole is drilled so the imide edge is t>" from the center pivot hole.



ILa urinate Formica to 'A" plywood a nd tack it (face down) to a plywood backing board. Use trammel-point attachment to rout outside perimeter 9" in diameter.

2 Cut eight pieces for octagon and join with splines. Then cut a holding block to fit between inside edges. Find center for pivot hole- by marking a "star" on block.

Place the router bit over the pilot hole, arid lower it to a depth of about V*. Then move the router in a clockwise rotation to rout the circle. Just keep lowering the bit and making passes until the outside of the frame breaks free. Fig. 4.

BOTTOM RABBET, I must admit the inside for the Formica insert is a bit of a challenge. To get a little practice, I cut the rabbet on the bottom of the frame first. The depth of this rabbet should be ;iV (to accept the Lazy Susan turntable).

1 o get the width I needed, I started on the inside perimeter of the octagon, and slowly worked my way out (with successive passes) to the final diameter, Fig. 5.

Although the diameter of this rabbet is not critical, I used it as a practice run for the one on top (for the Formica insert). When 1 got close to the exact diameter of the insert, I loosened the knob on the trammel point attachment, and kind of bumped the router bit into the shoulder (with the router running) — just enough to make a little dent in the shoulder—and then made another circular pass. This wray I could sneak up on the final pass (which must fit the Formica insert exactly).

With this bit of experience under my belt. I flipped the frame over and cut the circular rabbet on the top to accept the Formica insert. (Follow the same procedure, except the depth of cut must match the thickness of the insert.)

FINAL STEPS. The last step on the frame is to round over the top and bottom edges with a Vt" quarter-round bit. This can be done on the router table or with the trammel point attachment.

Then I glued the Formica insert into the top rabbet, and finished the wood frame with two coats of Watco Danish Oil.

Finally I put some felt pads on the bottom of a 6" Lazy Susan turntable and then mounted it to the bottom of the frame with #6 x Rh screws. The turntable (Cat. No. D4003, $2.15) and the felt pads are available from the Woodworkers' Store catalog, 21801 Industrial Blvd., Rogers, MN 55374.

drill 'A" pilot hole so the router bit can be lowered to make outside cuts.


4 Adjust trammel point to rout a 12" diameter circle on outside edge. Lower bit in pilot hole and make successive passes until outside waste breaks free,.

5 Adjust trammel point to rout inside circle. Start on inside of frame and slowly work out to diameter of Formica insert using method described in text.














Curio Cabinet


Designing this Curio Cabinet called for what seemed to be a contradiction, it should have a light and aiiy feeling so it doesn't overwhelm the contents that are on display. Yet, it should be substantial enough so the contents seem protected.

With that in mind, Ted designed this cabinet around a whole series of wooden frames — some with wooden panels, and some with glass. The net effect is, I think, a nice little display case.

Once we got the design work out of the way, we got down to the fun part: the woodworking.


I started with the three frames on the inside of the cabinet, and worked my way out. Each of these frames is built the same way: with miter and spline joints at each comer, see Fig. 1.

joining the frames. First, i ripped enough wood 21/«" wide for the three frames (six long and six short pieces), and cut each piece to rough length. Then I mite red both ends of each piece at 45° so the front/back pieces (A) were 19" long, and the side pieces (B) were 12" long.

Next, spline grooves are cut in the mitered ends of each piece. The easiest way to cut these grooves is on a router table. (See page 8 for more on this technique), After the grooves are cut, splines are cut to fit the grooves.

the bottom frame. The bottom frame receives a panel, so lA" x W grooves are cut along the inside edges of each frame piece, Fig. 3.

Since the panel (C) for this frame can be seen through the glass door, 1 decided to build it out of solid wood. After I glued up enough wood for the panel, I trimmed it to size so the dimensions were '/«" less than the groove to groove measurements of the frame, see Fig. 3. (This '/«" gap is necessary for expansion/contraction of solidwood panels.)

Next, tongues are cut on all four edges of the panel to fit in the grooves in the frame. 1 cut these 'A" x V" tongues on the router table with a rabbet bit.

When gluing-up this frame, be sure the splines are positioned so they don't interfere with the panel, see Fig. 2. However, the panel is not glued in the grooves — it must be free to "float."

outside tongues. The last step is to cut a lA" x W tongue on the outside perimeter of all three frames. Once again, I used the router table and a rabbet bit to cut these tongues.

A Inner Frame Frt/Bk (6) B Inner Frame Sides (6) C Inner Frame Ponel

0 Corner Frt/Bk (4) E Corner Sides (4) f Aprons (2)

1 Top/Btm Frame (6) J Top Panel

K Base Frt/Bk (2) L Base Sides (2) M Door Frame Stiles (2) N Door Frame Roils (2) O Side Frame Stiles (4) P Side Frame Rails (4) Q Drawer Front R Drawer Sides S Drawer Back T Drawer Bottom U Plywood Back

'Vi* x 2'/s - 19 'Vm x 2V. - II "At x S'/a - I5Ve 'Vi* x 2% - 26 "At x 1% - 26 "At x 5% - 10Vi cut to fit "At X 23/a - 21'/:. 'Vn, X 2'/a - 14Vi "At X 10Va - 1 7'/i x 2V* - 21 Vb x 2Va - 14% xl% - 20Vi 'Vi* x I3/« - 16 !3/i4 x IV« - 20 Vs ,3/li ip/i-9 "At x 4 - 16 Vs x 3V. - 12 Va X 27/a - 14 cut to fit V.i x 16 - 25 Vj

e :








t" x S V," . 72"



" x 5 V,"

- IB"







* 3V,".






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Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

Wood Working for Amateur Craftsman

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