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Tedswoodworking Plans

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completely turned. To do this, place the gouge at the center of the pinnacle and cut towards the outside rim, see Fig. 7. Watch that the corner of the gouge doesn't dig into the bottom of the bowl as it finishes the cut.

The safest, although much slower way is to attack the pinnacle with a domed scraper. Regardless which way is used, be careful not to let the tool pass beyond the center or it will be lifted from the tool rest momentarily and then thrown back down rather hard.

shaping the rim. After the inside of the bowl is cut to just slightly thicker than finish size, the rim can be shaped.

1 waited until the profile on both the outside and inside of the bowl were cut before I shaped the rim. This is a little contrary to common practice, and there's no reason why the rim can't be cut before the inside is shaped.

However, I did find that it was easier to form the rim to look like it was a smooth continuation of the inside profile if it wras cut after the inside was shaped.

shaping the kim. The Vz" gouge can be used to cut the rim in the same manner as the outside of the bowl. Or, you may want to shape the rim completely with the domed scraper. I used the scraper. However, if the scraper is used, be sure to make very light cuts to prevent it from tearing the grain.

finish cits on the insiue, After the rim was shaped, I used the heavy domed scraper to clean up the inside of the bowl. Once again, I made very light passes, starting at the center and moving out to the rim, see Fig. 8. Make as many passes as needed, or until the results fail to improve. Then sand the bow-1 inside and out.

removing the bowl from the lathe. The part of the bowl's bottom that's covered by the plywood disk is cleaned up after the bow! is removed from the faceplate. If there's a lot of excess wfood to be removed, you may want to cut the bowl off the plywood with the parting- tool, see Fig. 9.

Before the bowl was removed, I finished it with a coat of Renaissance wax and buffed it to a high gloss. Then I removed the faceplate from the bowl, and chopped off the plywood disk with a chisel.

There should be a ring of wraste wood on the bottom of the bowl. Use this ring and a small compass to find the center of the bowl. Then mark the center with an awl, finishing the hottom. To finish the bottom of the bowl {that was covered by the plywood disk), I sanded a flat area flush with the bowl's outside profile with a Rockwell Speed Bloc Sander. Then I gave this area a coating of Renaissance wax and buffed it to match the rest of the bowl, drill the attaching hole. Finally, I drilled a hole, W deep for the round tennon, using the awl mark as the center point. Be sure to check the finish thickness of the bottom with outside calipers before drilling.

THE PEDESTAL

The pedestal for the bowl is turned from two pieces of 8/4 stock glued face to face.

The finished diameter of the pedestal is S'/ii". However, the size of the blank should stait out about 6" in diameter in case the faceplate is slightly off center on the block.

Since this block is considerably smaller than the bowl block, I glued it to the plywood disk with a paper insert between

^ftAfter marking the depth of the cove l\Jivith the parting tool, use the gouge to shape the cove. Then blend it in with the profiles of the base and the bead.

nThe round tennon is cut with the parting tool. When the tennon is just slightly oversized, check it with the hole in the bowl to achieve an exact fit.

the two to make it easier to remove later.

The first step is to true up the blank on the lathe in the same manner as the bowl blank wras trued. (The tail stock can be brought up to the end of the block for support if needed.) After the block is trued, most of the waste can be removed from the area of the bead and cove, reducing the diameter of this area to 2Va".

layout. The next step is to layout the positions of the bead and cove on the blank. First I cut a groove with the parting tool to mark the depth of the cove at its deepest point, see Fig. 10,

The next step is to start shaping the profile of the base using the gouge. Once the basic shape of the base is formed, the cove can be turned so that it blends in with the base and also forms a continuous curve where it meets the bead, see Fig. 10. The bead is then cut using either the small scraper, or the skew chisel, turning the tennon. After the pedestal's profile is completed, use a parting tool to cut a round tennon to fit the hole in the bottom of the bowl, see Fig. 11. When the tennon is close to the correct size, use the hole in the bowl to check for the final fit. This way, there's little chance of the tennon being cut too small. This is also a good way to be sure that the tennon isn't too long. (If the tennon is cut so that the fit is tight, clamping the bowl to the pedestal shouldn't be needed.)

Finally, I finish sanded the entire base and then gave it a coat of Rett issa nee. wax. After it was buffed to a high sheen, I removed the pedestal from the lathe and separted the plywood disk from the base.

ASSEMBLY

I used the method shown in Fig. 12 to assure that the bowl's rim is level when the bowi is glued to the pedestal. By placing a piece of plywood on top of the bowl and measuring the height of all four of its edges from the bench, I was able to glue the bowl perfectly level.

"I To be sure that the bowl is attached to I ^ the pedestal so that it's level, lag a piece of ply wood on top of the bowl, and measure the height of all four sides.

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