Woods Mira

THE CABINET FRAME

The three inside frames are held together with the next layer of frames — the eight corner pieces for the cabinet. The four front/'back corner pieces (D) are ripped to a width of 2'/a". The four side corner pieces (E) are ripped to a width of VY.i". All eight pieces are 26" long.

shouldered quarter-hound. The four front/back pieces (D) are joined to the side pieces with a simple rabbet joint. But to give this joint a little more class. 1 made a shouldered quarter-round cut on the outside corner of each piece.

Next, a rabbet is cut on the inside corner to accept the side comer piece (E), see Fig. 4. The rabbet should be cut so the side piece (E) sticks out to form a shoulder equal to the shoulder on the front piece, see detail in Fig, 6, si ¿us and apron. The next step is to cut two aprons (F) to fit between the side comer pieces (E). These aprons are joined to the sides with a mortise and tenon joint.

If you're not particularly fired up to cut a mortise and tenon, you could achieve the same effect by eutting '/V'-wide stopped grooves on the inside edges of the side pieces and in the end of the apron, and join the two pieces with a spline.

dadoes. Finally, dadoes are cut in the eight comer pieces and the two aprons to mate with the tongues that are already cut on the inside frames.

The dadoes at the top and bottom of each corner piece are cut so the face of the frames are flush with the top and bottom ends of each corner piece. When cutting these dadoes, I guided the pieces with the miter gauge and used the rip fence as a stop. Then when the grooves in the aprons are cut, I used the same setting on the rip fence so these grooves would be lined up.

The dado for the middle frame (which supports the drawer) is cut so it's centered 4Yt" down from the center of the top dado.'

assembly. Before assembling all of these pieces, I finish sanded them — it's a whole lot easier to do it now than after assembly. Then I started assembly by gluing the aprons (F) and the sides (E) together.

Now these two assemblies, plus the four front/tiack corner pieces (D) are all glued to the three inside frames. I applied glue to the dadoes and rabbets in each piece and added them one by one. This whole assembly is held together with band clamps. (Be sure to check the square of the cabinet as the band clamps are tightened.)

filler strips. At this point the cabinet is starting to look pretty good — except for the tongues sticking out on the front and back edges of the inside frames. These tongues are covered with filler strips.

The filler strips (G) that fit on the top and bottom frames should be the same figure \

figure \

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 3

W TONGUE-

ALLOW FOR EXPANSION

FIGURE 2

W TONGUE-

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 6

Vt" x ft DADO

CORNER DETAIL

TOP OF FRAME IS FlUSH WITH END OF CORNER PIECE

TO CENTER 4V,"

FIGURE 4

V,' QUARTER ROUND BIT

FRO NT/BACK CORNER PIECE

FENCE

RABBET

FIGURE 6

TOP OF FRAME IS FlUSH WITH END OF CORNER PIECE

Vt" x ft DADO

FIGURE 5

TO CENTER 4V,"

CORNER DETAIL

figure 7

spline

DRAWER GUIDE

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