for this cabinet. I made mine from ebony and bird's-eye maple. Just be sua* the wood you choose for the vertical posts is well seasoned, fairly straight grained, and free of knots to prevent distortion. It's a gixxl idea to make one or two extra posts, just in case.

Make the top and bottom of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 1. After planing the pieces to finish thickness, band-saw the shapes. You can finish the edges with scrapers and files or make a template and trim them to size with a iliLsh-trimming router bit. If you choose the router method, vou need to make a template for only one end since the top and bottom are svmmetrical from left m to right. You rout one end. flip the board and template, and rout the other end. litis way, you are always trimming "downhill*' on the grain, eliminating tendency for tear-out.

Once you've finished these pieces, use a plunge router to groove the underside of the top for a wall cleat. Make the cleat from maple, and rabbet a tongue on the back edge to lit the groove in the cabinet.

Next, rout sliding-dovetail slots in the underside of the bottom for the two wall support brackets. (See Fig. 1.) I made a simple plywood template and used a 1-in. dia. template bushing to rout the slots.

Mortise-and-tenon joints and trim-head screws (available from McFeely's, Box 3, Lynchburg, VA 24505-0003, 800-443-7937) attach the top and bottom to the vertical posts. Start this step by laying out and drilling the -/+-in. dia. mortises for the post tenons. (See Fig. 1.) Then, with a bit. drill tlirough the center of each mortise to the other side. Countersink the outer faces of the holes with a Win. bit.

Next, drill and counterbore holes in the top and bottom for Vin. dia. bullet catches. The catches should extend about % in. above the face of the wood.

Sand the top and lx>ttom, and chamfer or round over the edges as desired.

Make die wall brackets from lfc-in. stock that complements the other w<x>d(s) you're using. (See Fig. 1.) You can use a French curve to lay out a pleasing profile. Bandsaw and clean up the profile, then rout sliding dovetails on the top edges to fit the sockets in the cabinet. After this, rout a keyhole-slot in the back of each bracket for a »10 pan-head screw.

To make the posts, start with slightly oversized blanks, say I'/k in. square and at least 32x/i in. long. Sticker them carefully for a day or two to give their moisture content a chance to stabilize. If any pieces warp or bow, you can cut them for the rails later.

Ughtly joint two faces of each blank so they're flat and square to each other. Use a push stick to keep your hands away from the blade, but don't apply too much downward pressure on the pieces as you joint them. The object is to take out any remaining bow, not immortalize it. Rip the blanks to exactly 1 in. square on the tablesaw.

Next, cut the glass grooves in the posts on the tablesaw, using a carbide blade with at least 50 to 60 teeth and a kerf width matching the thickness of the glass. I recommend double-strength ('*-in. thick) glass and mirror for this project. Get a sample from your kx:al supplier to see if it fits in a test kerf. If there's any resistance or play, try another saw blade.

Of the eight posts (counting the two door stiles), four will have two glass grooves and the other four will have one apiece. (See Fig. 1.) All but two of the kerfs run along the blanks' center-lines. The two angled kerfs on the back posts are easy to cut if you tilt the blade to 15° and set the rip fence so the blade is centered on a diameter line. (See Fig. 1. Section AA.) Set the blade a bit higher so the kerf will still be \\ in. deep.

To create the posts* round shape, use a router with a '.-in. radius round-over bit. Clamp a straight fence to vour router table and set the bit to cut exactly tangent to the table and the fence. 1 used two feather boards to hold the work firmly against the fence and the table. (See photo, below.) It takes four passes on this setup to round a post.

When you've rounded all the posts,

Round th«» ealiinet post* on the router tahle, u^ing feather hoard* to keep the flat faces firmly against the table and fenee.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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