common or better. About 20 percent will lie select," Wall says.

But, how do you figure the amount of wood you need when you have to

Wood grade* give you au indication of the muiihcr of defects in a hoard. Pictured here (top to bottom) are pieces of FAS, select. No. I common, and No. 2 common ¡mplar.

work around all those knots? The easiest thing to do is buy 20 to 25 percent more wood than you think you'll actually need. "Working w<x>d is not like slicing loaf bread." says Hil Peel, manager of Wall's lumberyard. Waste is inevitable even if the board is free of defects because you lose to saw kerfs, jointing, and other milling operations. Don't underestimate the waste from kerfs; some carbide blades lake nearly Vt in. per pass.

And. stay away from the elaborate cutting diagrams sometimes found in project articles. These diagrams are supposed to show you how to cut lots of little parts out of a board, but they can become ven- restrictive. Peel tells of one woodworker who spent hours making four pages of diagrams and then had to spend another couple of hours searching for boards to fit the diagrams. "I think it's better to buy about 100 lxl. ft. and get the stock you need without worrying about cutting diagrams," Peel advises. "Plus, if you buy at least 100 bd. ft., you usually get a quantity discount and can use what's left on the next project."

Wood Movement

Once you've chosen your wood, consider how the new environment of your shop will affect it. 1 like to buy w<xxl at least a week or two before I need it so it can adjust to my shop's humidity level. This generally reduces problems with wood movement from differences in humidity between the shop and the lumberyard. To minimize chances that kiln-dried stock will pick up moisture after it leaves the lumberyard. keep the wood inside in a dry, perfectly flat area. Lumber dealer Wall

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