Line up arrow on centerline
Drill size depends on dia. of shelf pins.
trim them to length on the tablcsaw or radial arm saw, making sure you hold them firmly and cut them slowly. Remember to leave 1. in. on both ends of the fixed posts for the snib tenons. Cut the door stiles Vfo in. shorter than the shouldcr-to-shouldcr dimension of the fixed posts to provide sonic clearance.
To machine the stub tenons, set up your tablcsaw so the outside of the blade is exactly '/» in. from the fence
and raised to a height of just less than in. Then clamp a plywood fence M in. behind the top of the blade's arc and rotate the ends of each post slowly into the blade—opposite the blade rotation. (See photo.) Finish sand the posts with 220-grit paper folded around a scrap of soft leather.
Next, make the shelf rests. I wanted delicate-looking rests, so I cut some I6d common nails into Vin. long pieces. To provide a soft cushion for the glass shelves, I dipped the rests to a depth of Vi in. in a black liquid-plastic coating used for ux>l handles (available from Lee Valley Tools Ltd., 1080 Morrison Dr., Ottawa. Ontario K2H
Now you can drill the shelf-rest holes in the posts. Choose a drill bit a few thousandths of an inch larger than the shelf rests you've made. If your nails are like mine (about 0.165 in. dia.), an 'ioein. bit should work fine, but for a closer tolerance you might choosc a »18 or »19 machinist's drill.
Make a drilling fixture to Ik* sure the hole locations are consistent from one post to the next. (See Fig. 2.) Mark the top end of each post with an arrow indicating where the line of shelf-rest holes will be, as shown in Fig. I. Next, place one of the posts in the fixture so
the arrow points to the centerline and clamp the sides of the fixture to the post. Be sure the bottom end of the post is light against the stop. Bore the holes to a depth of in. with a drill press. Repeat this operation on each of the six posts.
Make the door mils from the same stock as the posts. Begin by preparing about 10 ft. of finished strip stock 1 in. wide and slightly more than Vi in. thick. (The actual thickness should be cqual to the width of a groove produced by your '.-in. straight router bit.)
On the tablcsaw, plow a kerf for the glass on the centerline of the edge of each rail. (See Fig. 1. Section BB.) Then, on a router table, round the corners on the kerfed side of each rail with two passes over a '/«-in. radius round-over bit.
To determine the lengths of the rails, simply measure the distances between the round mortises you cut in the top and bottom. Cut each rail to length with a strip of wood in the kerf to prevent tear-out. Lightly sand all the rails with your sanding pad. then set them aside until the final assembly.
Next, with a 'A-in. straight bit, routshallow pocket mortises at the top and bottom of each post to receive the rails, as shown in Fig. 1. This creates a clean appearance between the rails and the posts. To keep the mortises ceniered on the glass kerfs and to prevent grain tear-out, you can make a quick alignment jig by gluing a '»-in. thick strip of wood into a groove in a scrap of plywood. (See Fig. 3 ) I'se a rabbet plane to trim the height and thickness of this guide strip so it barely slides freely in a typical glass kerf.
To set up the jig. first clamp it to the table so the guide strip is centered on
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