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Drawer & Back

The last two things to do are build the drawer and make the back panel. The drawer fits in the lower, center opening in the case. It's made with simple, rabbeted joints and finished off with a false front. You'll build the drawer first, then install the metal slides.

A SIMPLE BOX. To start on tire drawer,

I cut the front, back, and two side pieces to final size. Then you can cut a rabbet on the ends of the front and back pieces (drawing below).

The next tiling to do is cut a groove on the inside face of all four pieces to hold the drawer bottom. After cutting the V4" plywood bottom to size, you can glue and screw the drawer box together, making sure that everything stays square.

SPACERS. There's just one more thing you need to do before you can install the metal drawer slides in the case. I couldn't mount the metal drawer slides directly onto the sides of the case because the face frame overhangs the drawer opening.

To get around this problem, I made spacers to fit on the sides of the opening, flush with the edge of tire face frame (detail'd' below). They allow the metal slides to open fully without being obstructed by the face frame. Once the spacers and slides are in place, you're ready to work on the drawer false front.

FALSE FRONT. The false front couldn't W be any simpler. It's just a piece of hardwood sized to fit the opening. The only tricky part is getting it sized so that there's an even V»" reveal all around. Then it's just a matter of fastening it to the front of the drawer box.

To mount the false front, I first put some carpet tape on the front of the drawer box. Then you can take some time to carefully position the false drawer front in the opening. You'll press firmly until the tape "grabs." Once the false front is in position, fasten it in place with screws from the inside of die drawer.

False Drawer Front

TOP SECTION VIEW

Spacer is flush with inside edge of face frame

DRAWER . SPACER

NOTE: False front is fastened with screws from inside

DRAWER FRONT

DRAWER BOTTOM

<GG) DRAWER BACK

DRAWER FALSE FRONT

<HH) DRAWER SIDE

Vt" x'A" groove for—' drawer bottom

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Drawer false front

CROSS SECTION

CROSS SECTION

Drawer side

Drawer bottom

NOTE: Spacer should be flush with inside edge of face frame

Drawer slide flush to back edge of face frame

BACK PANEL The last piece you'll need to add is the back panel. This is made from V41' plywood.

The openings you see in the drawing at right provide access to all the cables for electronic components, But more importantly, they provide ventilation to prevent heat build-up. Shop Notebook on page 29 shows how I cut clean, smooth openings. Then I mounted the back panel to the case using wire brads around the edge (detail 'a').

After going over the entire project with some sandpaper, you can think about the finish.

FINISHING UP. 1 decided to use a "two-tone" finish for this project. 1 chose a dark stain for the top and base. A natural tung oil finish on the case contrasts with the dark stain and adds a nice, warm tone.

To make the task of applying the stain easier, I removed the top and base from the case before applying the stain to those pieces. The case, shelves, and drawer front were

rubbed with a couple coats of tung oil. Then you can reassemble everything and apply a clear lacquer finish for a layer of protection.

Finally, you can move the cabinet into your favorite room to show it off to friends and family. After you install the shelves and all your electronic equipment, just sit back, relax, and enjoy the show. ESS

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Materials, Suppties & Cutting Diagram

Case Top (1) ^.-18x69% Case Bottom (1) % ply. - 18 x 69% Case Sides (2) % ply. -18% x 223/4 Vert. Partitions (2) 3k ply. -18 x 21 % Center Partition (1) % ply. -18 x 13 Hor. Divider (1) 3k ply. - 18 x 38%

Long Filler Strips (2) Short Filler Strips (2) End Face Frames (2) Top/Bot. Face Fra. (2) Ver. Face Frames (2) Hor Face Frame (1) Center Face Frame (1) Corner Block (8) Long Base Rails (2) Short Base Rails (2)

-%x1'/4-223/4 %x 1 % - 61% 3k X 1 % - 20% %x 1 % - 36% %xV/4- 12 7k X 37/g- 4'/g 3k x 23k - 62 '£ 3/4x23/4- 11%

Q Long Cleats (2) 1x1- 68V2

R Short Cleats (2) 1x1-6

V End Shelf Edging (2) 3k x 3k -141I2 W Top (1) 1x20-75 X Door Rails (4) %x2'£-10

Y Door Stiles (4) 7k x 2'/j - 20 Z Vertical End Lattice (4) 1V2 -16 A A Vertical Lattice (6) % x 1 - 16 BB Horizontal End Lattice (4) '/4 x 1 % -10 CC Horizontal Lattice (12) 1 -10 DD Hinge Blocks (4) 3T4-4 EE Door Stops (2) % x 1 % - 2V2 FF Drawer Spacers (2) % x 2 -18

GG Drw. Front/Back (2) '/¿ x - 35^ HH Drawer Sides (2) V2 x 6\ - 17

II Drawer Bottom (1) % ply. -17 x 35% JJ False Front (1) -% x 63k -36 V2

• (1 pr.) 16" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides (2 pr.) Full Inset Hinges (16) V Nickel Shelf Support Pins

' (16) #7 x 1'/4" Pocket Hole Screws (6) #8 x 1 Fh Woodscrews (34) #8 x 1V Fh Woodscrews (18) #8x2" Fh Woodscrews (1 pkg.) %" Wire Brads

Vx 6"-84" White Ash (4 boards @ 4.4 Bd. Ft. each)

%"x 7" - 96" White Ash (4.7 Bd. Ft.)

%"x 7" - 96" White Ash (4.7 Bd. Ft.)

E CC =

~ CC E

V//////////////.

//////////s///////////

7 "x 716" - 84" White Ash (5.5 Bd. Ft.)

7 "x 716" - 84" White Ash (5.5 Bd. Ft.)

\V x T- 96" White Ash (4. 7 Sq. Ft.)

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HH '\///-

ALSO NEEDED:

Two ■ 48" x 96" Sheets of White Ash plywood One - 48" x 96" Sheet of <A" White Ash plywood x 7"- 96" White Ash (4.7 Bd. Ft.) H

FIRST: Rout away waste

~ NOTE: Hinge leaves should be flush with surface tips from our shop

Self-centering drill bit

•> ... is;>yo/'nt together " - with spacers in

j'nsia// itreivj

Use two playing cards as spacers between parts

Case bottom

Door front is Ms"-—^ shorter than case " bottom at each end

FIRST: Rout away waste tips from our shop leaves, as in Figure 1. Start by marking the side-to-side position of the hinges on the case bottom. Then measure back %" from the edge and mark a line locating the center of the hinge barrel.

Next, slide the case bottom and door together with a couple of playing cards between them as spacers. Lay the hinge in position (barrel up) on the layout marks and use it to mark the outline of the mortises in the case bottom and door. Just make sure the barrel of the hinge is centered over the layout line.

THE LEAF MORTISES. With the layout complete, I got out my router and installed a straight bit. This allows you to quickly rout away the bulk of the waste from the shallow mortises. You'll get a consistent depth and a flat bottom. Finish the mortises by using a chisel to clean up around the edges (Figure 2).

THE BARREL MORTISE. Now, you need to cut a pocket for the hinge barrel (Figure 3). This won't show, so a perfect fit isn't necessary You can get the job done quickly with a pair of chisels. Again, just make sure the pocket is positioned accurately, as shown in Figure 3a.

ASSEMBLE THE JOINT. Once the pockets are cut, you can fit the hinges into the mortises and assemble the joint. A self-centering bit makes drilling the pilot holes easy (Figure 4). Then simply install the screws.

Adding Hinges to a Rule Joint

The hinges used on a rule joint have a short leaf and a long leaf. This allows the hinge to bridge the joint.

The door of the drop-front storage center project on page 12 is lunged with a rule joint (also called a drop-leaf joint). This allows the hinges to be completely hidden inside the case and the door to rest flat without any extra support when opened.

TWO MORTISES. To make the rule joint work smoothly without binding, the special drop-leaf hinges (margin photo) have to be installed properly. As you can see in the photo above, the hinge barrel isn't centered over the joint line. It sits back from the edge of the case bottom and is mortised in along with the short hinge leaf. The long hinge leaf extends across the joint line. What this means is that you'll need to cut shallow mortises for the hinge leaves and then a deeper mortise (or pocket) for the barrel.

CAREFUL LAYOUT. The first step is to lay out the mortises for the hinge

~ NOTE: Hinge leaves should be flush with surface

Center hinge ' barrel on Door layout line

NOTE:

Trim pocket to fit hinge

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Tip-Out Drawers

When 1 built the campaign chest on page 30, I attached small blocks to the underside of the case top and the web frames to act as drawer catches. These catches do double-duty by stopping the drawer as it's pushed into tine case and keeping it from accidently being pulled out of the case and spilling the contents.

This works well, but presents a small challenge. Detail 'a' at right shows how the catch stops the drawer when opened. But to remove {or insert) the drawer, the back has to clear the catch.

The main drawing above shows the simple solution to the problem. All you have to do is cut a short bevel on the lower back edge of the

Drawer tipped up to slide under catch

Drawer catch

Bevel on bottom edge of drawer side

Drawer - catch drawer sides. This allows you to tip the drawer up and slide the drawer back beneath the catch. It's easy to do and works well.

SAW, THEN PlANt. You'll want to wait until after tire drawers have been assembled to cut the bevels on the sides. This way, you can easily test fit them to the case and know for certain the bevel is right.

The drawings at left show baTk butts the simple process. First, up to catch I laid out the bevel cut on each drawer side. Then I used a back saw to cut away the waste, staying to the outside of my layout line, as shown in Figure 1. Finally, I turned the drawer "bottom up" to smooth the saw marks and fine-tune the fit with a block plane (Figure 2).

SIDE

SECTION

VIEW

Plane bevel to fine-tune fit-

Waste

Crisp, Clean Cutouts

The back of the TV cabinet project on page 18 needs a cluster of four cutouts to provide cable access and ventilation. The drawings at right show how you can make clean, accurate cutouts without spending too much time and effort.

IAY0UT AND CORNERS. The first step is to lay out the four cutouts on the inside of the back panel, as shown in Figure 1. Next, I formed the rounded corners by using the layout to drill l"-dia. holes with a Forstner bit (Figure 2). You'll want to back up the panel to avoid splintering when you drill the holes.

ROUGH CUT AND SMOOTH. The corner holes now allow you to use a jig saw to rough cut the openings. Stay about V4" to the inside of the layout lines (Figure 3).

Finally, to smooth the openings, 1 installed a pattern bit in my router. As shown in Figure 4, a straightedge attached to the panel with carpet tape allows you to rout a clean edge between the corner holes. ES3

V4" plywood case back

Lay out cutouts on inside of case back l'-dla. Forstner bit

Drill hole in each corner

Backer board

Remove waste' with jig saw

Cut to inside of layout lines

Carpet tape"" straightedge on layout line

Pattern bit www. Woodsmith .com

Wood smith

19th-century military officers with rugged, versatile storage that could be packed up and moved easily.

Although you probably aren't on the move, no doubt your house could use more storage. And you'll find that the solid construction and eye-catching details of this project make it ideal for homes today.

Packed with traditional details, you can build one or two of these small chests to add style and storage to your home.

From a woodworker's perspective, this project has a little bit of everything — dovetails, mortise and tenon joinery, veneer work, classic molding, and period hardware. All this makes it a nice challenge.

There's also some interesting history behind this project. Campaign furniture was designed to provide f#r

Wood Worker Tool Tote Plans

NOTE: Refer to page 33 for tips on using a dovetail jig to rout dovetails

Case joined with half-blind dovetails

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 24"Wx 16"D x 243/s"H

Article on insetting hardware starts on page 50

Drawer catches prevent drawers from being pulled out of chest

Inset brass hardware protects corners

NOTE: For an easy to follow technique on cutting half-blind dovetails, turn to page 38

Back panels faced with mahogany veneer

Handles are flush mounted to sides

Mahogany veneer

Bead molding hides and protects edges of plywood false fronts

- Drawers made with machine cut half-blind -— dovetails

Drawer pulls are partially mortised into drawer fronts

NOTE: Refer to page 49 for hardware sources

Glue blocks and splines reinforce bracket feet

Stem bumpers center drawer in opening

Drawers slide on hard maple runners

Drawer catch

Back panels rest in grooves in web frames and case

Beveled drawer sides allow drawer to be removed

Tip drawer up to slide under catch

Double the storage without taking up any more floor space by stacking a second chest on top.

Building the campaign chest breaks down nicely into three, easily managed sections: the case, the web frames, and the drawers. The case starts ; out as an open, dovetailed box with a few dadoes and grooves, j as in you can see in the drawing at right.

HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS. The half-blind dovetails I

used to join the case parts L }1

have two big advantages. \

The first is that it's a very sturdv joint. The dove- ®

SIDE

tails pull the two parts together, and you almost don't need glue. ^jj?"

The other advantage ^ lies in how this joint looks. Exposed half-blind dovetails stand out and give an otherwise simple case real visual appeal.

To get started on building the case, 1 sized the top, bottom, and sides to the dimensions shown in the drawing. Tire next step is to cut the half-blind dovetail joints.

JOINERY, You have a couple of options when it comes to making

Stem bumper

NOTE: Cut dadoes after dovetails 6/4 for consistent drawer spacing

NOTE: All parts are cut from %"-thick stock

TOP/BOTTOM

Stem bumper

BOTTOM

the dovetails. I used an adjustable dovetail jig. For some tips on getting the best results, take a look at the short article on the facing page.

You can also make the dovetails without a jig — it's not as difficult as it sounds, if you turn to page 38, you'll find a step-by-step technique to guide you through the process.

Don't be in a hurry to assemble the case after cutting tire dovetails. There are still a few details you'll need to take care of.

DADOES AND GROOVES. First, I cut some dadoes into the case sides that will capture the web frames, as illustrated in detail 'a' above. In the box at left, you'll see a way to quickly cut these on the table saw.

While you're at the table saw, you can cut a groove near the back of all the parts. This 'i'-wide groove will capture the back panels, as illustrated in detail 'b' at left.

The last thing to do on the case sides is to dril I a few holes for some nylon stem bumpers that will be added later to guide the drawers.

For now, you can set the case pieces aside and make the drawer frames and back. To see how it's

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