Assembling the

Base

With the case complete, you can begin working on the base. As you can see below, the base is made up of thick mitered corner assemblies connected by %"-thick rails. This creates a relieved, or offset joint. The top edge of the base is rabbeted to form a reveal — or shadow line —- between the base and case (see detail 'b' below).

Pocket hole screws join the rails to the comer blocks. You'll use splined miter joints to make the corners. And that's a good place to start.

CORNER BLOCKS. The four corner blocks are identical. The grain runs vertically and a splined miter joint connects tire two pieces. I found it easier to bevel the edge of a couple of long blanks then cut the groove for the spline on the blanks.

SPLINED MITERS. The box at the bottom of the opposite page shows how I cut the slot for the splines using a standard blade with a V kerf. Since the joint won't show, I used a hardboard spline (detail 'c' below). You can cut the corner blocks to final length, then glue up the pairs using the splines. Finally, you can rout the shallow rabbet on the top, outside edge of the blocks.

RAILS. Because pocket hole screws join the rails to the corner blocks, you can simply cut the rails to length. To get the exact length of the rails, 1 set the corner blocks on the case so that the outside faces were flush with the case. Then it was a simple task to measure between them for the length of the rails. I went ahead and routed the rabbeted reveal on the top edge of the rails before moving on.

Once that's all done, you can fasten the rails to the corner blocks with pocket hole screws, keeping the back faces flush with one another (detail'd'). A Vg "-thick spacer helps with cla mping and alignment. Now you can add the cleats.

CLEATS. You can see below that the cleats are nothing more than hardwood strips fastened to the inside of the base. The top of the cleat is flush with the top of the base.

The length of tire cleats and locations of the screws aren't critical, but the drawings below give you some guidelines. After the cleats are fastened to the base, you can attach the base to the case (detail 'b').

Section Views Joinery

'/s"x Va" rabbet on top edge of rails

SHORT

8ASE

RAIL

Base frame joined with pocket hole joinery

Case bottom

FRONT SECTION VIEW

woodscrew

TOP VIEW

Top fastened to case from underneath

CENTER SHELF

END SHELF EDGING _

END SHELF

CENTER SHELF EDGING

Hardwood edging giued to plywood shelves

#Sx 1W'Ph ---woodscrew f with washer

#3 x T/i" Fh-woodscrew

NOTE: Shelves rest on V4" shelf pins

Trim edging -flush with plywood

Oncc you've got the entire top glued up, you can work on smoothing it. Careful use of a belt sander can make quick work of flattening it. Then you can follow up with a random orbit sander or sanding block, working your way through finer and finer grits.

TRIMMING. This top is heavy, so it would be awkward to trim the ends square on the table saw. Instead, I used a straightedge with a circular saw, as shown in die box below.

After you've cut die ends square, you can sand them smooth with a sanding block. And while you're at

The bulk of the work on the case is done. All you need to do now is add the shelves and the top.

SHELVES. The drawing above shows the four adjustable shelves. They're simple to make. All you need to do is cut some plywood panels to size and glue hardwood edging onto the front edge of each one.

1 cut the edging just a little wide to slightly extend past the edges of the plywood. After the glue was dry, I used a hand plane to trim the edging flush to die plywood. You could also use a router with a flush trim bit or a sanding block. Just be careful that you don't sand through the thin veneer of the plywood.

GLUED-UP TOP. Now you're ready to move on to the top. It's glued up from 1 "-thick stock. Since it's the "crown" of the project, I took some extra time to sort through the lumber stack to get the best pieces. You're looking for a good color and grain match between the boards. The goal is to make your glue lines as inconspicuous as possible.

SECTION WORK. If you have access to a thickness planer, you can glue up the top in two sections, run each section through the planer, then glue up the two sections. This will help get a flat, smooth top.

SIDE SECTION VIEW

it, you can slightly ease all the edges of the top to soften sharp corners.

ATTACH THE TOP. Now you can fasten the top through the oversized holes in the case. This will allow the top to move with changes in humidity. Next, you'll start on the doors and then add the drawer.

Base corner block blank

Straightedge

Squaring Up a Top. To trim the ends of the glued-up top, use a sturdy straightedge and a circular saw with a fine-tooth carbide blade.

Cutting Spline Slots. Use the table saw to cut a straight, clean slot for the splined miter joints.

How Cut Straight With Circular Saw

ONLINE EXTRAS

VERTICAL LATTICE

fes) HINGE BLOCK

Rails and stiles are flush on -back of door

NOTE:

Tenon is centered on rail

VERTICAL END

LATTICE

STILE

Door pull '

Euro-style hinge mounting hole —•

HORIZONTAL LATTICE

SIDE SECTION VIEW

Lattice frame

HORIZ.

END LATTICE

NOTE: Doors are sized to leave Ve" gap all around of 7/8M-thick stock for the stiles and ■v'4'-thick stock for the rails, as shown in detail 'a' above. And since the joinery is a stub tenon and groove, the groove in the stiles need to be slightly offset from the center,

OFFSET GROOVE. If you look at detail 'a', you'll see what I mean about the offset groove in the stiles. It's not hard to locate this groove if you cut the tenon on the rails first. The box below shows you how 1 d id this with a V4" dado blade. It just takes some time to get everything set up right so you can get a snug fit.

Now is a good time to put the pieces for the door frames aside and turn your attention to the lattice panels. You need to have them in hand before gluing up the frames.

LATTICE PANELS. It's not hard to cut all the pieces for the lattice panels. It's a lot of repetitive work, but if you pay attention, it should go smoothly. The box on the next page shows you how I started with wide blanks, cut the notches for the lap joints, then ripped the pieces to width.

GLUING UP THE DOORS. Once the panels are complete, you can insert them in the door frames. But 1 didn't glue the panels in place. I wanted them to be able to move with changes in humidity. Now you can go ahead and glue up the door frames, making sure they're square.

MOUNTING THE DOORS. Before mounting the doors, you need to add some mounting blocks for the hinges. These hinge blocks need to

The thing that grabs your attention right off the bat on this project is the lattice door panels. The lattice is really a series of half-lap joints in strips of wood that are glued together to form a panel.

This panel fits into a groove in the rails and stiles of the door frame. But before you can work on the lattice panel, you need to make the door frames. They're made up

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To learn how to make doors with glass panels, visit our website at Woodsmith.com

How-To: Offset Tenon and Groove

Cut shoulder first then remove -j waste

Waste

Rip fence

Start with the Tenon. Use a '¡4"-wide dado blade to form the tenons on the rails. Flip the workpiece to center the tenon.

Locate the Groove. Position the rip fence for cutting the groove in the rails and stiles. The groove in the stiles will be offset.

be flush with the inside edge of the face frame, as shown in the drawing at the top of the opposite page.

Once the hinge blocks are glued in place, you can mount the hinges on the doors and set them in the opening. I used Vs"-thick spacers to help maintain a consistent reveal all the way around the door.

Next are the door stops. They're just hardwood blocks glued in place behind die face frame. The drawing on the far right shows die location.

All that's left to do now is add the door pulls. Then you can start on the drawer and back panel.

(D5) HINGE BLOCK

(D5) HINGE BLOCK

Door stop is fastened behind face frame

Face frame

Door

Door

Face frame

Door stop is fastened behind face frame

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