NOTE: Make two passes on router table to complete edge profile
SIDE SECTION VIEW
#8x IV4" F h woodscrew
Drop-leaf hinge with screws
#SxVA° Fh woodscrew
NOTE: Glue magnet in place with epoxy
W-dia. button plug roundover1
FRONT SECTION VIEW
Bottom screw plugs trimmed flush
NOTE: Filler strips are cut to fit and glued in place
NOTE: Top and door are made from fy"-thickpine
MAKE THI "DRAWERS." Once the mortises were cut, I started work on the false drawers. The idea here is to cut equally spaced kerfs in the door to give the appearance that the storage center holds four drawers (see detail V above and tire right drawing in the box below).
Before assembling the case, there are a couple more things left to do. First, drill holes for the knobs (drawing on opposite page). And second, install a magnetic catch (detail 'a' on opposite page). Once these things are completed, you can assemble the case.
SHELF TOP. The next step in the construction is to add the top to die case. I routed a V roundover with
With the case parts done, it's time to add the final touches. There's a fair amount of work to be done to the door, like completing tire rule joint, routing the hinge mortises, and making the "drawers." So that's a good place to start.
DROP-FRONT DOOR. After cutting the door to size, the first step is to rout a cove on the bottom edge of the door (see left drawing below). The cove will mate with the roundover routed on the front edge of the case bottom to create the rule joint.
HINGE MORTISES. The next tiling to do is rout the mortises for the hinges. To make sure the mortises in the door and bottom were aligned, I laid the door in front of the bottom and marked where they should go (see main drawing and detail 'a' above). Shop Notebook on page 28 shows how to mark the locations of the hinges and install them.
The Cove. The profile routed on the bottom of the door should mate with the edge of case bottom.
Cutting Drawers, Three evenly spaced kerfs cut into the front of the door creates the illusion that the storage center contains four small drawers.
Distressing the finish gives the storage center a comfortable, time-worn appearance.
W-dia. magnet washer a shoulder along the front edge and the sides (detail 'a'). Then, you can simply glue the top to the case.
FILLER STRIPS. There's one final detail before moving on to the finish. Some of the grooves you cut earlier are visible on the inside of the case. Although it's not a big deal, £ decided to glue in filler strips to give it a more finished look. Now, you're ready to move on to the finishing stage.
-IVb'-dia. wood knob
To give the shelf an antique look, I decided to "distress" it. What that means is taking a couple of tools or a ring full of keys and drop them randomly on the storage center. But don't get carried away — you want it to look old, but not beat up. I also softened some of the edges to add to tlie worn appearance (see photo on the opposite page).
SIDE SECTION VtEW
Then, I applied a walnut stain to the entire project. When that dries, paint right over the stain.
Once the paint dries, lightly sand in different areas to dull it or to allow the stain to peek through. This really adds to die aged look.
But there are other looks for this shelf as well, as you can see Designer's Notebook below. £3
#6 x V Fh woodscrew
Vs" x V/Y knob bolt
SIDE SECTION VIEW
-Cove-bead profile on edge of top
While working on this project, 1 couldn't help but think of all the different design options that could easily change the look of this project. A couple of ideas are shown in the drawings here.
For a more traditional look, you can change the edge profile of the top, add wood pegs, and cut an ogee profile in the aides. The detail drawings can help you with that.
Or, go with the straight lines shown in the drawing below for a clean, contemporary look.
Side has^ ogee profile
Top has flat edge with softened corners
Side has simple rnitered profile
Single metal hooks
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