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Glue a face frame around the drawers, one piece at a time. Make sure the pieces are exactly flush with the glue blocks and maple strips.Then you'll have a perfect opening for inset drawers.

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2. Use a portable drill to make the pilot holes. Countersink the exit holes so the joint will draw up tight.

3. Drill and countersink screw holes for the drawer dividers through the dadoes in both web frames (Fig. G. page 61).

Gluing the Case

1. Build four squaring jigs (Fig. A, page 59). Dry assemble the entire case, one piece at a time, and drill pilot holes into the sides for the pocket screws. Use the jigs to hold the pieces together.

2. Glue and screw the lower web frame to one side using two squaring jigs (Photo 5). Then glue and screw the bottom in place with two more jigs.

3. Install the upper web frame, but don't glut-it in. Measure the space between the web frames and cut the drawer dividers (C3) to fit. Cut rabbets on the dividers. Remove the web frame.

4. Glue and screw the second side (Photo 6).

5. Remove the squaring jigs and stand the cabinet upright. Glue and screw the drawer dividers to the lower web frame, then glue and screw the upper web frame (Photo 7).

Stiffening the Case

1. Cut the back (E) to fit. Drill pilot holes for the screws (Fig. D, page 60) and install the back.

2. To stiffen the joint between the sides and lower web frame, glue short blocks (C4 and C5) in place (Photo 8). (These blocks do double duty as drawer guides.) Don't use screws or nails because their heads can chew-up your drawer as it slides by.

3. Turn the case over and glue a series of short glue blocks (H7) between the bottom and the sides. Add more blocks underneath the front edge of the bottom (Fig. G, page 61). Be sure to leave 4 in. of room at each corner for the foot-mounting blocks (H3).

Drawer Wear Strips and Frames

1. Glue the wear strips on the web frames (Photo 9). The outer strips cover the pocket holes.

2. Cut the frame ends (D1) to size and glue them on. Their inner edges must be even with the glue blocks. Their outer edges extend 1/16-in. proud of the cases side. After the glue dries, even up these edges with the same router jig you used for edging the plywood.

3. Cut the long top and bottom pieces (L>2 and D3) to fit between the side pieces (Photo 10) and glue them on. Carefully position the bottom piece even with the wear strips.

4. Cut the middle pieces (D4) to fit. Glue them on after fine-tuning the width so both sides are flush with the drawer guides.

Making the Bottom Molding

1. Saw three 1/2 in. x I-in. molding blanks that arc a couple of inches extra long. Make a 1 -in. thick, 3-in.-wide temporary support board by gluing together 3/4-in. and 1/4-in. plywood. (They may add up to only 15/16 in., but that's okay.) Attach the molding blanks to the support board with double-faced tape (Photo 11).

2. Install a 5/8-in.-radius bit (see Sources, page67) in your router table (Fig. J,at right). The opening in your router table must be at least 1 -3/4-in. dia. to handle this bit. Rout the molding and pry it off the support board.

3. The front molding is attached to a backer (H4). Cut the backer to fit flush with the sides of the case.

4. Cut miters on the front molding (H5) to line up with the ends of the backer. Glue the two together and even up their top edges.

5. Glue this assembly to the case, even with the bottom edges of the glue blocks. This leaves 1/2 in. of the bottom's front edge exposed as a stop for the doors.

6. Cut the side moldings (H6) 1 in. or so longer than their final length. Miter one end of each piece and test the fit (Photo 12). Tweak the miter if necessary, then cut the molding to length and glue it on.

Attaching the Feet

1. Cut the foot mounting blocks (H3) from leftover walnut plywood. Drill and countersink holes through the blocks for screws to attach the feet and the blocks to the case. Drill holes in the center for 1 -in. dowels.

2. Glue and screw the feet to the blocks (see Sources, page 67). Use epoxy because it works better than other glues on end grain.

3. Once the glue is dry, continue drilling the dowel hole 2-in. deeper into the foot. Glue in the dowel with epoxy (Photo 13).

TIP: Molding Setup

When you round the top and bottom of a molding, set the cutter slightly below the centerline so a small uncut section in the middle of the molding rides along the fence. This ensures a smooth, continuous cut and prevents snipe at the end of the molding. Sand the molding when you're done to round over the uncut section.

Shape the narrow moldings on a router table.Tape two pieces to a built-up. l-in.-thick support board so your fingers are well away from the action.

Shape the narrow moldings on a router table.Tape two pieces to a built-up. l-in.-thick support board so your fingers are well away from the action.

Fit the molding to the bottom of the case. Molding protects the fragile ends of the plywood sides from everyday wear and tear, such as bumps from a vacuum or snags from a dust cloth.

Fit the molding to the bottom of the case. Molding protects the fragile ends of the plywood sides from everyday wear and tear, such as bumps from a vacuum or snags from a dust cloth.

Epoxy a large dowel into a commercially made foot to securely attach it to the mounting block. It's hard to get a large dowel to fit lightly, but epoxy will adequately fill the gaps for a good bond. It also adheres to the foot's end grain.

Glue the plywood mounting blocks and feet to the case. The feet are often a weak spot in a large case, but these are built to last.

Fasten the top to the case.The backsplash is screwed, but not glued, to the top. You can remove it before finishing the top so you won't have so many nasty corners to deal with.

4. Glue and screw the mounting blocks and feet to the bottom of the case (Photo 14).

Making the Top and Backsplash

1. Cut the top panel (A 1) to size. Cut the shims (A4 and A5) from leftover plywood. They can be pieced together from short stuff.

2. Glue the shims underneath the top. They overhang the top by 1/8 in. all around. Use a router and flush-trim bit to even them up.

3. Glue mitered edging to the front of the top. Even it up with the router jig you used on the sides of the case. Then add edging to the sides of the top and rout it even. (You can't even up all three pieces of edging in one shot because the jig can't cut into a corner.) Radius the edging on the router table with the same setup used on the bottom molding (Fig. J, Page 63).

4. Rip the backsplash pieces and trim to length. Cut the curves with a jigsaw or band-saw (Fig. K, page 65) and fair them with a half-round file.

5. Counterbore holes for plugs to cover the screws that join the backsplash together. Face-grain plugs blend in better than end-grain plugs. You can buy them ready-made or make your own with a tapered plug cutter (see Sources, page 67).

6. Set up the backsplash pieces with the squaring jigs and glue and screw them together. Glue and even up the plugs.

7. Remove the 1/4-in. plywood back from the case. Drill angled holes through the top web frame for the screws that'll fasten down the top (Fig. G, page 61). To get the angle right,start the holes from the bottom side of the web frame. Countersink quite deeply, so there's no chance of the screw heads catching on the drawers. Fasten the backsplash to the top and the top to the case (Photo 15).

Making the Drawers

1. Cut the parts to fit your case. Rip all the pieces 1/16-in. narrower than the opening to allow for seasonal movement. For a tight-fitting drawer, the fronts should be 1/32 in., or less, shorter than each opening. Make the backs 1/16-in. shorter than the fronts. This tapers the drawer box, making it easier to fit.

2. Cut grooves for the drawer bottoms on the tablesaw and rout the parts on a dovetail jig (Photo 16).

Amcric«n Woodworker 0CT0&CR2001

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