Amcric«n Woodworker 0CT0&CR2001
3. Fit the bottoms and glue the drawers together. Glue stops (J5) at the back of the case so the drawers stop Hush with the front.
1. Cut all the parts to the sizes indicated in the Cutting List, page 66. Your doors will be oversized 1/4 in. in length and 1/8 in. in width. Cut grooves for the 1/4-in.-plywood panels in the stiles (F1) and rails (F2, F3 and F4). Most 1/4-in. plywood is actually 1/32-in. thinner. A dado set can't make a groove that narrow, but two passes with a standard blade works just fine.
2. Cut tenons to fit (see Foolproof Tenons, AW »88, August 2001, page 66). Assemble the door and measure the distance from the bottom of one groove to the bottom of the opposite groove. Cut panels that are I/16-in. shorter in length and width than these measurements. Glue the doors (Photo 17).
3. To custom-fit your case, cut the doors in two stages. Aim for a 1/16-in. gap at the top and bottom and in between the doors. First, trim both ends on your crosscut sled (this will even up all the rails and stiles). Second, take a little bit off the sides.
1. Cut rabbets in the outer stiles with a dado set (Fig. F, page 60). Make the rabbets the full depth of the hinge when closed (about 3/16 in.) and 3/4-in.wide.
2. Cut the continuous hinge to length at the nearest knuckle, butt it into the rabbet and drill pilot holes with a self-centering bit (see Sources, page 67). This indispensible bit is key to successfully hanging the door because it automatically centers the pilot holes. Install a few screws.
3. Lay the case on its back and support the door on a stool (Photo 18). Line up the opened hinge so it's flush with the inside edge of the case. Install a screw at either end and try out the door. If it closes perfectly, congratulations! If it doesn't, loosen one of the screws, shift the door and put two new screws in neighboring holes. Now retighten the first screws. It's that easy.
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