HowTo Overlay Assembly

Add the Filler Pieces. Fit the '/a" squares first. Then, carefully align the %" center overlay. Finally, add the center filler strips.

Start on the Inside. Using the inside edge of the frame as a reference, glue the first strips in place and clamp them using cauls.

Finish Up. Add the outside squares and overlay strip, then clamp them down. Finally, clamp across the joints to close any gaps.

A few beads of mirror mastic holds the mirror. Mastic tape around the edge keeps it in place while the mastic cures.

Spacers around all four sides make it easy to drop the mirror into position, perfectly centered in the frame.


#8 x J Vi" Fh woodscrew



NOTE: The wall blocks have beveled edge out

NOTE: Foot and wall blocks are attached to the frame with screws


#8 x J Vi" Fh woodscrew doesn't slide away from the wall, I added a couple small pieces of traction tape to the feet.

ado a finish. Before attaching the mirror, it's a good idea to apply the stain and finish you've chosen for the frame. This way, you won't have to mask off the mirror or struggle with an awkward cleanup in the recess around the inside edges of the frame.

installing the mirror. The mirror is pretty heavy, so it's important to use a mastic that can handle the load. As you can see in the photos below left, I used a combination of mirror mastic and mastic tape. (Refer to sources on page 49 for more information.) You'll need to let the mastic cure for a few days before the mirror is ready to stand up.

It's also important to make sure the mirror is properly placed in the center of the frame and not shifted to one side. I used a few strips of scrap, milled to the correct thickness as spacers around the sides. The right photo gives you a good idea how tire installation is done.

Now it's just a matter of deciding where you want to place the mirror. Since it doesn't need to be fastened to a wall, you can try it just about anywhere. It won't take long to find a spot where it will brighten up the room. OS


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