Leghole Mark

Set sliding bevel blade to angle of leg splay.

1. Position brace at 90J.

2. Tilt brace in plane to align bit with sliding bevel blade.

Lay out a radius on each end of the bottom, and saw to the line with a bow saw or bandsaw.

amount of time needed to plasticize. or soften, the wood depends on its moisture content. To be safe, steam the wood for 30 to 45 minutes.

When a piece comes out of the box it should be so hot that you can barely hold it. I bend without gloves because my sense of touch, as much as sight, tells me how well the wood is bending. Once you take the wood out of the steam box you have, perhaps. 45 seconds before the wood cools. You will need to move quickly. To eliminate mistakes, do a trial run in your mind. I even suggest acting out the procedure so you don't have to stop and think in the middle of the bend.

When ready, take the piece out of the box. and align the center mark with the mark on the form. Secure the piece at the center mark by inserting a wedge between the piece and the center block on the form. Tap the wedge with a hammer to secure it. Grasp one side with both hands, and bend with a slow, steady motion. Don't jerk it. The wood will feel like hard rubber and will require some effort to bend.

When the first side is bent around (lush with the form, insert the dowels, and slide wedges between the dowels and the piece. The dowels hold the piece in place, and the wedges prevent the dowels from creating dimples in the hot. soft wood. Bend the other side in the same manner.

Leave the rail on the form until it is cool to the touch. Next, remove the bent wood from the form and tie the two ends with string to keep them parallel. Hang it where it can dry. Depending on the time of year and the weather, this can take several days. Bend the second piece the same way.

Making the Bottom

The bottom of the cradle is verv casv to make, be-cause its upper surface is flat, rather than "saddled," or shaped, as on a Windsor chair. The bottom is l7/ie. in. thick, I2'/j in. wide and 36 in. long. The bottom of

Mark off a bevel around the underside of the cradle bottom, and remove the bulk of the wood with a drawknife.

With the legs and stretchers assembled, mark off the slot for the rocker, and extend the marks down the legs with a square.

the original cradle is made from a single board, but you'll have to edge-glue two pieces if you can't find a Íx>ard that's wide enough. The bottom on the original is Eastern white pine, but you can use any other wood that is soft and stable such as sugar pine, ponderosa pine, bass, yellow poplar, or even mahogany.

Each end of the bottom is sawn to a 6'Ai-in. radius. 1 cut the bottom to length and hand planed both surfaces. Next, I drew a center line on the top and bottom. Setting a pair of dividers to 6XU in., I made a mark on the line that far back from each end. I placed one of the divider legs on the mark and traced the curve. Although most woodworkers would use a bandsaw to

Mark off a bevel around the underside of the cradle bottom, and remove the bulk of the wood with a drawknife.

Drilling angled holes like those for the spindles and legs Drill the holes for the side stretchers at 90 to the is easy if you line up the bit with the blade of a sliding bevel placed axis of the leg. next to the hole.

Drilling angled holes like those for the spindles and legs Drill the holes for the side stretchers at 90 to the is easy if you line up the bit with the blade of a sliding bevel placed axis of the leg. next to the hole.

cut the round ends, I used a 26-in. bow saw. I removed the saw marks with a circular plane, creating a smooth edge that was square to the upper surface.

The edge's lower corner is beveled at 31° uniformly around the entire perimeter. I did this by first setting a marking gauge to7/* in. and tracing a light scribe line on the bottom surface. I then reset the marking gauge to7if. in., and holding the fence against the bottom surface. scribed a line around the side of the bottom. My bevel extended between these two scribed lines.

I removed the bulk ol the waste with a drawknife. I finished the bevel with a bench plane along the straight sides and a spokeshave on the curved ends.

Spindles, Legs, Stretchers and Rockers

All the turned parts of the cradle are made of white birch. You could use any other even-grained hardwood. such as maple, cherry or mahogany.

Turn the legs and spindles to match the drawings but don't turn the stretchers just yet. Depending on the accuracy of your angles when drilling the leg holes in the bottom, vou can't be sure of their finished length. Wait and turn the stretchers after you have drilled the leg holes. With the legs fitted into their holes, you will be able to determine how long to make the stretchers.

Saw out the rockers with a handsaw or bow saw. I cleaned up the edges with my circular plane and a spokeshave. Although it is hard to tell through the paint, the original rockers appear to be maple, and that is what I used.

Drilling the Leg Holes

Start by drilling the four leg holes in the bottom. When making a Windsor chair, boring these holes is a challenging operation because each hole is a com pound angle (angled in two directions). However, on the cradle, the legs splay only in one direction.

To bore the leg holes I used a V-i-in. brad-point drill. I prefer to drill bv hand. Using a brace is slow, allowing me enough time to detect and correct a potential problem. If you prefer an electric hand drill, use one that has variable speed so you can bore slowly. The hole-drilling procedure is surprisingly easy. Still, you may feel more confident if you try it once or tw ice in a piece of scrap wood.

Secure the cradle bottom to your bench top and locate the four leg holes. To establish the leg angle, set a sliding bevel to 106°. Place the bit's point on the mark and hold the bit perpendicular to the cradle bottom.

Imagine a geometric plane passing vertically through each pair of legs. Hold the sliding bevel next to the mark for the hole, with the handle of the bevel parallel to the imaginary vertical plane. The bevel's blade should point outward in the direction you want the leg to splay. Moving only within the imaginary plane, tilt the brace in the direction of splay, until the bit lines up with the bevel blade. When everything lines up. drill the hole, being careful not to break through the other side.

Place the leg tenon in its hole and check the accuracy of your angle. Now, bore the opposite leg hole in the same manner. This time it is easier as you have the first leg to help you visualize the vertical plane between the two legs. Do the second pair of legs in the same manner. Place all four legs in their holes. Measure the lengths of the four stretchers and turn them.

Stretcher Holes and Spindle Holes

Each leg has a pair of stretcher holes. Drilling the first two pairs of holes for the stretchers is easy. The second two pairs are more difficult as they have to relate to the first.


Cap end of pipe.

Pfpe slants downhill.

Two-burner propane camp stove provides the heat

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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