NOTE: Side frames use stub tenon and groove joinery frame & panel SlDES

With the face frame completed, I set it aside to begin work on the two frame and panel side assemblies.

MAKE THE PANELS. Before starting on the frames for the sides, you'll want to cut the plywood panels to size and apply the bird's-eye maple veneer. With the veneered panels in hand, it's a lot easier to accurately size the grooves in the frame pieces that hold them.

THE FRAME Once the veneered panels were completed, I got busy on the frames that surround them. The drawing above shows the iSWii ' -. . r, . I - T

over edge f face frame

Simple Layout. Position the side assembly in the rabbet in the face frame and use a simple "marking gauge" to mark the location of the divider dadoes.

Routing the Dadoes. With the two sides damped side-by-side, the dadoes for the plywood dividers can be accurately routed using a simple jig and a hand-held router.

basic stub tenon and groove join-cry involved. A standard blade on the table saw for the grooves and a dado blade for the tenons will get the job done quickly. And with the joinery wrapped up, the next order of business is glue and clamps.

THE DIVIDER DADOES. After the two sides arc assembled, the dadoes that hold the center dividers come next. As mentioned before, the key here is to use the face frame to accurately lay out the position of the dadoes. The far left box shows a simple way to do this. You'll notice that the top and bottom dividers fit into rabbets in the ends of the assemblies. This creates a flush top and bottom to the case.

'Die side assemblies are too awkward for a dado blade on the table saw, so I chose to rout the dadoes. Just turn to page 33 to see how to rout accurately sized dadoes.

And finally, before moving on, cut a 'W'-wide rabbet along the back inside edge of the side assemblies to hold the back assembly.

NOTE: Rout NOTE: Case chamfer on face dividers are frame stiies cut from '

after case W plywood i assembly

NOTE: Dadoes in back panel are routed after assembly

NOTE: Rout NOTE: Case chamfer on face dividers are frame stiies cut from '

after case W plywood i assembly

NOTE: Dadoes in back panel are routed after assembly

Me"~dia holes hold nylon stem bumpers

Me"~dia holes hold nylon stem bumpers

NOTE: Match dividers to hole locations shown in detail 'd adding the

Dividers & Back

At this point, you're closing in on the assembly. Once the plywood dividers and the frame and panel back are ready to go, it will be time to put the case together.

THE DIVIDERS. First I worked on the dividers that fit into the dadoes in the side assemblies. You'll need seven identical 3/Y' plywood case dividers (Q). Detail'd' shows what to do next. You'll want to install nylon stem bumpers in the case to act as drawer glides. Now is the time to drill the 3/iu"-dia. holes in the dividers for them. Just follow detail'd,' and match up the location of each set of holes to the four dividers that need them.

THE BACK. All you have left to build before assemblv is the back.

And if you look at the drawing above, you'll see that there's nothing new here. The back uses the same stub tenon and groove joinery as the side assemblies (details 'a,' 'b/ and 'c'). The only difference here is that the 'A" plywood back panels are not veneered.

You'll notice that the back is also dadoed to capture the dividers. So before assembling the back, you can mark the location of these dadoes on the back stiles. Just set the stiles into the rabbet in the sides and use the dadoes in the sides to mark the back dadoes.

PUTTING IT TOGETHER. Now you're ready to start the case assembly. This is most easily done in stages. I started by gluing the two sides into the rabbets in the face frame. The top and the bottom divider can be temporarily set in place and used to square-up the assembly.

Once the face frame and the two sides are glued together, you can begin to add the dividers to the case one at a time. After spreading glue on the front edge of the divider and in the dadoes (sparingly), slide them into place from the back. Check to see that the face frame rail and the divider are flush as you tighten several clamps front to back. Use a caul to avoid damaging the face frame bead. I added the top and bottom divider last.

After all the dividers have been installed, glue the back into its "pocket" and take a deserved rest.

Now the case needs a base to lift it off the floor. The solid leg and rail base shown above is just the ticket.

FOUR LEGS. The legs are a good place to start. From a couple of 3"-square by 36"-long turning blanks,

1 cut the tour base legs (X) to size. Next you can lay out and cut the mortises (box below).

Shaping the legs comes next. The first thing to do is make a Vs" hard-board pattern of the leg profile using the pattern shown below. The box below gives you a brief look at where to go from there. First, take a trip to the band saw followed by one to the router table.

THE RAILS. Now you can set aside the legs and start work on the four rails that connect them. Once the base front and back rail (Y) and two base side rails (Z) are cut to size, a tenon is cut on each end to fit the mortises in the legs.

As you can see, each rail has a gentle curve that compliments the profile of the legs. (Check page 20 for a tip on laying out curves.) And after cutting the rails to shape, the top and bottom outside edge of each rail is rounded at the router table, as shown in detail 'c.'

REINFORCEMENTS. Once the legs and rails are assembled, you can add notched corner blocks to each joint for reinforcement, as in details 'a' and 'b.' The corner blocks, along with a couple of cleats added to the front and back rails, allow you to fasten the base and case together with woodscrews.

How-To: Shaping the Legs

A Simple Cove. Finally, a 'r/ cove routed on the two outside upper edges of the legs adds the perfect detail.

Una the drawing a ■ left- to mafceapaf-iern out of cardboard 01 W h&dhnard.

Shaping the Leg. Use a thin flexible pattern to draw the leg profile on the leg blank and then cut the leg to shape at the bandsaw.

Monti? leg before .ihaprng

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