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Doweling Jig

Drilling centered, consistent holes is crucial for dowel joints. While you can purchase a doweling jig, I made my own, as in the photo above.

The jig is made up of five basic parts. The drilling guide is a piece of hardwood with a few centered holes that match common dowel sizes. A pair of 1/2"-thick fences are

Plastic corner protectors can be found at most home centers or hardware stores.

Corner Drawer Glide

I used to use plastic glide tape to help the drawers in my project slide smoothly. The problem is the tape can be pulled up easily. But on a trip to the home center recently, I found something that works a lot better — plastic corner protectors.

As the name suggests, they protect fragile outside corners in dry-wall construction. They're smooth, flat and slippery enough to work great in a cabinet (Note: just be sure it's not the self-adhesive kind). Besides making the drawers operate better, they're thick enough to center the drawer both top to bottom and side to side in the opening.

I cut them to fit so that they sit just behind the front of the drawer and can't be seen. A few small brads hold them in place.

Keith Warek Rochester, New York

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Block Plane

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Block Plane just like the one shown here. Send your tips and techniques to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312. Or send us an email message at: [email protected].

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Screw a smalt hook in the side of a brush to give you a way to hang it safely on the edge of a jar


Shutter Index Jig

Building the louvered shutters from Woodsmith No. 151 is a pretty simple project. One of the things that makes construction go smoothly is the assembly jig from page 25, as shown in the photo at right. But making the jig can be a little tricky. It can be difficult to cut the slots accurately.

To make building the jig a little easier to do, I built a quick indexing jig, as you can see in the drawing and photo below. The jig is made of two parts. The first is an auxiliary fence for the miter gauge. It's made from a piece of 3k" plywood. Before attaching the fence to the miter gauge, I laid out and cut two V-wide notches in one edge. The notches are from îi" rftejrrererdnivtf spaced IV2" apart. (This is how far apart the notches need to be on the assembly jig.)

The jig can then be attached to the miter gauge with screws so that the inner notch is aligned with the dado blade. The second part of the jig is an indexing pin. It's a short piece of 1A"-dia. dowel. The dowel is slipped into the outer notch. A round dowel makes it easy to slip the workpiece on and off the indexing jig.

To cut the notches in the sides for the assembly jig, slide the work-piece against the dowel and cut one notch. Now move the workpiece over and slip the notch over the dowel. After notching one side, flip the piece over and cut notches in the other side. Then rip the blank to width to make the assembly jig.

Bert Drost Des Moines, Iowa

Quick Tipe

Paint Brush Hook

While finishing a project, I sometimes need a place to set my brush down for a moment. But placing it on my bench or across the top of the jar leaves it open for dust contamination or getting knocked on the floor.

To solve the problem, I screw a small cup hook into the side of the brush just above the bristles or foam. This lets it hang on the rim of a jar. The brush won't absorb too much finish and the hook makes it easy to pick up. The hook works great for hanging the brush in a can of cleaner or thinner to soak overnight for cleaning or reuse.

]. W. McKmney Butler, Indiana

Screw a smalt hook in the side of a brush to give you a way to hang it safely on the edge of a jar


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